Heres a few pics of a work in progress doppelganger by alanp. Great project!
It worked straight away on the test rig and looks great wih the flashing led indicators. Im not sure if its worth taping up the led/ldrs as its gonna be dark inside the box once its finished.
Ive just finished clear coating so gonna have to wait 2 days before i box it up.
Heres some pics:
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/04/14/yra5ynyg.jpg)
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/04/14/ynahusur.jpg)
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/04/14/hezema8y.jpg)
Good to see a build of this, and it looks like it will be a real beauty when boxed up.
Did you use the photocell2a from futurlec for this? They're the only ones I can find within spec.
Thanks.
Yep, the ldrs are the futurlec 2a's. ive searched long and hard for somewhere more local but no luck so ive had a partially populated doppleganger for the last 2 weeks while i was waiting.
Really nice looking arwork. Classy.
I haven't started building mine up yet. I will probably do something simple with the graphics as well as this many controls in a dense area can look cluttered. Yours avoids that, which is cool.
Quote from: Hangingmonkey on April 14, 2013, 06:01:53 AM
Yep, the ldrs are the futurlec 2a's. ive searched long and hard for somewhere more local but no luck so ive had a partially populated doppleganger for the last 2 weeks while i was waiting.
Yeah, I had a good look for another source as well :) The build doc asks for 20k-2M, 21k-2M, 22k-2M and 23k-2M. Did you just ignore that? Seems a bit weird to me ???
I really like that enclosure design! Very clean.
Can't wait to get my hands on one of these!
Quote from: soldersqueeze on April 14, 2013, 08:34:15 AM
Quote from: Hangingmonkey on April 14, 2013, 06:01:53 AM
Yep, the ldrs are the futurlec 2a's. ive searched long and hard for somewhere more local but no luck so ive had a partially populated doppleganger for the last 2 weeks while i was waiting.
Yeah, I had a good look for another source as well :) The build doc asks for 20k-2M, 21k-2M, 22k-2M and 23k-2M. Did you just ignore that? Seems a bit weird to me ???
The 20k, 21k, etc just looks like he dragged the one cell of the spreadsheet down to create the other 3 and it did an auto-numbering thing. Could be wrong but that makes the most sense to me.
Yeah, I assumed that it was some auto-numbering thingy.
You can see the same thing on the BOM where the pots are listed and is goes 16mm, 17mm all the way down to 21mm.
...and there was me ordering custom 19mm pots from alpha!
Quote from: pickdropper on April 14, 2013, 08:25:56 AM
Really nice looking arwork. Classy.
I haven't started building mine up yet. I will probably do something simple with the graphics as well as this many controls in a dense area can look cluttered. Yours avoids that, which is cool.
Thanks dude. One of the reasons I didnt PCB mount the switches was because I wanted them to be a little bit more spaced out and so that the decal text wont get partially covered by the hex nut.
Great to see another working one!
For mine, I only used the locking washer for the switches, didn't bother with the larger washers (they overlapped, otherwise.)
Yeah... I need to fix that build doc :-[ stupid typos. And I knew that someone else (anyone else) could make theirs look prettier than mine! :)
Cant wait to build mine!
Cool build and project! :)
Just an update...
Ngyaaaaaaah!!! Cant get it to fit in the box since I didnt board mount the switches. Its on hold at the moment as Im working on a stagefright and a harbinger at present.
Im trying to decide between keeping it in a BB and board mounting the switches or putting it in a taller box. Hows everyone else getting on with their Doppelganger?
That sucks :(
Perhaps the switches could be put on the side, so that the long side of the switch is parallel with the top and bottom?
Quote from: Hangingmonkey on April 24, 2013, 01:24:00 PM
Just an update...
Ngyaaaaaaah!!! Cant get it to fit in the box since I didnt board mount the switches. Its on hold at the moment as Im working on a stagefright and a harbinger at present.
Im trying to decide between keeping it in a BB and board mounting the switches or putting it in a taller box. Hows everyone else getting on with their Doppelganger?
125bb or 1590bb?
I have gone with the Lacesensor build...partly because I wanted the original build.
I asked as somel others did if there were any more boards coming along for the lo profile dop....there was no reply so that was another reason for doing the Lacesensor build.
I am fairly well on with the build, when its finished it will be good to see how close the two builds are.
Mike
Quote from: jimilee on April 24, 2013, 02:09:43 PM
Quote from: Hangingmonkey on April 24, 2013, 01:24:00 PM
Just an update...
Ngyaaaaaaah!!! Cant get it to fit in the box since I didnt board mount the switches. Its on hold at the moment as Im working on a stagefright and a harbinger at present.
Im trying to decide between keeping it in a BB and board mounting the switches or putting it in a taller box. Hows everyone else getting on with their Doppelganger?
125bb or 1590bb?
Its in a 1590bb at present and a 125bb is not wide enough for the pcb.
Actually im thinking about keeping it in a 1590bb and putting the switches on the side of the enclosure, im not really into tall enclosures and switches on the side would look cool.
Yeah, I was thinking the same thing.
Side switches it is then. Ill update when i have some progress
Awesome, bout ready to start mine.
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/04/29/veteba7y.jpg)
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/04/29/edatysu4.jpg)
Heres the new layout. Side switches apart from the LFO switch at the front.
Fingers crossed....
Any suggestions what i can use the old box for?
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/04/29/py2ury9u.jpg)
Hangingmonkey, have you done a test fit in the new box?
And for the old box... massively modified rat or muff or TS with the standard 'modded' lotsa switches aesthetic? :)
Quote from: Hangingmonkey on April 28, 2013, 01:38:38 PM
Any suggestions what i can use the old box for?
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/04/29/py2ury9u.jpg)
Draining pasta? :D
Crazy as it sounds, I've 'bogged' botched drill jobs on enclosures before using automotive panelbeater's filler... works a treat and takes the paint well.
Quote from: alanp on April 28, 2013, 11:53:02 PM
Hangingmonkey, have you done a test fit in the new box?
And for the old box... massively modified rat or muff or TS with the standard 'modded' lotsa switches aesthetic? :)
The test fit works.
I like the idea of a super modded TS, might give that a try.
Quote from: nzCdog on April 29, 2013, 03:47:40 AM
Crazy as it sounds, I've 'bogged' botched drill jobs on enclosures before using automotive panelbeater's filler... works a treat and takes the paint well.
Hmmm, i have a load of boxes with errors from my early years which i havent got rid of. If the filler works im interested. Can you recommend a product?
(http://images.trademe.co.nz/photoserver/76/236355576_full.jpg)
This the stuff I use, just came from our local hardware store in NZ. It's 2-part, a light brown paste and a red curing agent which you mix together in the desired quantity... it turns pink and dries pretty rapidly, in about 20 mins or so. Its quite strong stuff you can trim with a knife or chisel, and sand if required once set.
I would tape the inside of the hole, apply filler and remove the tape and sand to a smooth finish once it's dry. It's surprisingly durable, particularly effective at the smaller holes obviously. One warning is, don't try bake dry the paint on an enclosure that's been filled... trust me on this ;) :-[
Cool, thanks nzCdog
Quote from: Hangingmonkey on April 29, 2013, 11:53:06 PM
Quote from: alanp on April 28, 2013, 11:53:02 PM
Hangingmonkey, have you done a test fit in the new box?
And for the old box... massively modified rat or muff or TS with the standard 'modded' lotsa switches aesthetic? :)
The test fit works.
I like the idea of a super modded TS, might give that a try.
That box is screaming for a modded TS! You could even fit 2 moded TS's in there!
Quote from: nzCdog on April 30, 2013, 01:42:40 AM
I would tape the inside of the hole, apply filler and remove the tape and sand to a smooth finish once it's dry. It's surprisingly durable, particularly effective at the smaller holes obviously. One warning is, don't try bake dry the paint on an enclosure that's been filled... trust me on this ;) :-[
I tend to use the same technique, but I use a product called JB Weld. Though i dont think you will have a problem with heat with JB Weld (they do have a high heat version too ;) )
Hmmm, serves me right for trying something different but the finish on the new box didnt quite turn out as expected.
Usually my routine is paint, clear, decal and then more clear.
Just to try something different, i applied the decal directly to the paint and then cleared with a different brand to my usual and it ended up looking like this:
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/05/04/3a2a3eru.jpg)
Which sort of looks interesting as a 2 tone contrast but the edges look rough:
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/05/04/a4u5adyb.jpg)
Trying to decide whether to strip the finish and start again.
Anyone else had similar results from applying the decal to the paint layer???
I have applied decals directly to paint and some have looked fine and others not so good. There are so many variables (i.e temp, thickness of each caot, paint color, brand, etc.) that can affect the end result that it makes my head spin. I gave up on waterslide because of inconsistencies and durability issues. There's nothing worse than taking a pedal apart and the decal ripping up. . Regardless, it sounds like you have a system that has worked for you so I would just stick to that!
Finally got round to taking pics. Decided to strip the finish. Ran out of blue to i used a metallic grey. Didnt realise that it would make the decal hard to read...
Anyway, it fits now, just. Took a bit of 'gentle' pressure to get the back plate on!
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/05/20/da6ehaty.jpg)
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/05/20/derazage.jpg)
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/05/20/azu3ezaj.jpg)
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/05/20/jety9e5a.jpg)
Im getting some lfo ticking though. Can someone look at my offboard wiring and see if that might be the cause.
Not sure if its due to the wires overlapping.
That black on grey looks sexy.
I don't get any LFO ticking on mine... can only guess that it's the flying wires. Did you get it when it was out of the box?
Does a battery really fit there? :o
Quote from: Hangingmonkey on May 20, 2013, 01:58:46 AM
Im getting some lfo ticking though. Can someone look at my offboard wiring and see if that might be the cause.
Not sure if its due to the wires overlapping.
Quote from: alanp on May 20, 2013, 02:03:03 AM
That black on grey looks sexy.
I don't get any LFO ticking on mine... can only guess that it's the flying wires. Did you get it when it was out of the box?
Does a battery really fit there? :o
I get some ticking at certain settings too, but it will be because of the off board wiring. This pedal really should use the board mounted pots, then I think it would be my dream phaser. I need to build another one, but I don't regret my first layout :)
Quote from: alanp on May 20, 2013, 02:03:03 AM
That black on grey looks sexy.
I don't get any LFO ticking on mine... can only guess that it's the flying wires. Did you get it when it was out of the box?
Does a battery really fit there? :o
When its on, I can always hear the 2nd LFO ticking...
Thats on my 2nd build on the green board. I used board mount pots and the minimum of flying leads...
So... I just found out that Futurlec will not ship my LDRs for another twenty years, and refuse to respond to any of the five emails I have sent for order status...
So...
Can any of y'all weigh in on whether you think 27k/2Meg will fit the bill?
http://www.jameco.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/Product_10001_10001_120310_-1
Or, if not those, alternately these, spec'd at "20k-30k/2Meg":
http://extra-parts.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=146
(Data sheet here: http://extra-parts.com/datasheets/GL55.pdf )
I used 27k/2M from small bear, seem to work okay
Excellent, thank you Alan.