First and foremost, one thing must be clear and obvious -- this is ALL thanks to ElectricStorm's hard work. Without him, I'd've spent the day killing dwarves and night elves in World of Warcraft.
Secondly, thought I'd elaborate on how I normally do things.
(http://i163.photobucket.com/albums/t282/Gutstwohand/tenpat_zpsf6330a59.jpg) (http://s163.photobucket.com/user/Gutstwohand/media/tenpat_zpsf6330a59.jpg.html)
I try and find an existing drill pattern. If I can't, like with the Tenebrion, I print something close to what I want (a 125B pattern, the stagefright), and modify it with masking tape, pen, a ruler, and the project board. Some people probably do impressive work in AutoCAD, I can't. My printer might be a laser, but it does those artifacts, so no good for etching. That's my excuse and I'm sticking to it. (The layout supports topmounted jacks, I don't like wiring them up.)
(http://i163.photobucket.com/albums/t282/Gutstwohand/nndrill_zps50ae01bd.jpg) (http://s163.photobucket.com/user/Gutstwohand/media/nndrill_zps50ae01bd.jpg.html)
Then it's off in the car to Dad's workshop. (He has a big collection of tools. I don't.) The drill press makes VERY quick work of them, the only thing that slowed me down today was a rectangular hole.
Now, I have something special. Something very special. I had the populated board sitting on my desk for a couple weeks, and I spent this morning drilling the box (along with Nautilus and 'verb boxes.)
I spent roughly five and a half hours doing wiring and testing.
(http://i163.photobucket.com/albums/t282/Gutstwohand/nnbox_zpsd40a6b6a.jpg) (http://s163.photobucket.com/user/Gutstwohand/media/nnbox_zpsd40a6b6a.jpg.html)
HELL YES BABY IT'S A FLANGE WITH NO NAME! (Thanks greatly, Jim, and also credit to the designers!)
(http://i163.photobucket.com/albums/t282/Gutstwohand/nnguts_zps0512618f.jpg) (http://s163.photobucket.com/user/Gutstwohand/media/nnguts_zps0512618f.jpg.html)
This is what it looks like in the box. But that really doesn't give you a good idea of how freakin' annoying it is to wire. (Icecream container as insulator on the daughterboard side.)
(http://i163.photobucket.com/albums/t282/Gutstwohand/nnspider_zpsb849a988.jpg) (http://s163.photobucket.com/user/Gutstwohand/media/nnspider_zpsb849a988.jpg.html)
There. I put it in the enclosure, measured wire, took it out, soldered the wire in, repeat, about six times. That's a lot of nuts to be doing and undoing.
But.
But.
But.
It fired up first freaking time! First pop, no issues! (Apart from forgetting to plug the guitar in, but that doesn't count.) Took maybe two minutes to set the regen and bbd bias, now I'm off and laughing.
I know what I'm going to be doing Sunday afternoon now ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D
Mother of god.
Reading through this photo by photo my jaw came closer and closer to the floor until BAM with the last photo. Seriously impressive stuff! is the flange of your own design? Or is it a replication? Either way, you should be incredibly proud of this beautiful work of art!
Now... Any chance for some sound clips? I wanna hear what ol' no name sounds like!
Nice. I might have to do this project at some point...
Giantsinbloom -- it's a copy of a Lovetone Flange With No Name, for which the legwork was done by ElectricStorm. (I'm just painting in his numbers :) )
I think I was way too timid on setting the regen, the Reaction control isn't oscillating like it should be. It's definitely unlike the Collosalus or Current Lover, more of a modular synth in a box than a proper flange... I'm going to have to spend more time learning how it works. The Space seems to be something of a tremolo, albeit one I don't have much control over, but it does sound good.
Jim -- good news in that the Bourns transformer seems to work okay, main good part about that is that Mouser carries it.
Quote from: alanp on May 18, 2013, 12:33:46 AM
Giantsinbloom -- it's a copy of a Lovetone Flange With No Name, for which the legwork was done by ElectricStorm. (I'm just painting in his numbers :) )
I think I was way too timid on setting the regen, the Reaction control isn't oscillating like it should be. It's definitely unlike the Collosalus or Current Lover, more of a modular synth in a box than a proper flange... I'm going to have to spend more time learning how it works. The Space seems to be something of a tremolo, albeit one I don't have much control over, but it does sound good.
Jim -- good news in that the Bourns transformer seems to work okay, main good part about that is that Mouser carries it.
Space is just a fixed depth amplitude modulation ie a tremolo
It's just ok on its own. The beauty is having time and space on at the same time...
😳😳😳😳😳😳
this is amazing, just by looking at that board i get scared! eheh
whew, gotta give you props! it looks like quite an undertaking.
from the things you say, it sounds like it might be worth it too!
Alanp, glad you got it up and running on the first try! My first question is, were the build docs easy enough to follow? In other words, were they clear as to what to do? As far as the oscillation, that should occur with the Reaction control either between the 8:30 and 9 o'clock position or the 3:30 and 4o'clock position with the Time on and the Action anywhere except the 12 o'clock position. Did you use a 9 volt or 12 volt supply? Just curious. There is a little more headroom at 12vdc.
The ? Flange user manual is listed in my dropbox folder (link is in my signature below). Download it and that might help you out some with how it is used and what the controls all do. The settings sheet I included in the build docs should help you with your favorite settings, just make extra copies of it.
I currently have no way to make sound samples, so if you have time please do post some samples. I wanted to mount the project in the 1550G before posting a build report, but glad you were able to mount it and post it here.
One minor detail in the build docs is the wires going to "J" and "GND" for the Loopage switch are reversed when looking at the Main/Daughter Board wiring as compared to the Main Board/Switch wiring. Although it is an error (the wires are reversed on one set as opposed to the other) it doesn't really matter since the switch just supplies a ground path for the Loopage LED. The wires can be used either way.
Anyone wanting build docs, I should have them up in a day or two in the dropbox folder. If you don't want to wait, just PM your email address to me and I'll forward a copy to you till they are posted.
Thanks for the credit on it AlanP!! Hope you enjoy it and it lives up to the original!
Jim
Edit: Thanks for the info on the Bourns transformer (LM-NP-1001-B1L)! Also one suggestion, should you decide to use a different voltage to power it with. There is a pad under the Regen Bias pot. If you drill that out (carefully), this will make it easier for you to make the adjustment when (or if) you change voltages. Just remember the direction you turn the pot will be reversed. The reason for having to adjust it when the supply voltage changes is that it affects the Regen Bias depending on the supply voltage used.
That's pretty epic Al... nice one :)
Quote from: electricstorm on May 18, 2013, 07:20:55 PM
Alanp, glad you got it up and running on the first try! My first question is, were the build docs easy enough to follow? In other words, were they clear as to what to do? As far as the oscillation, that should occur with the Reaction control either between the 8:30 and 9 o'clock position or the 3:30 and 4o'clock position with the Time on and the Action anywhere except the 12 o'clock position. Did you use a 9 volt or 12 volt supply? Just curious. There is a little more headroom at 12vdc.
The guidelines seemed a bit subjective in terms of listening for oscillation, and I think I got it wrong :-/
Quote from: electricstorm on May 18, 2013, 07:20:55 PMI currently have no way to make sound samples, so if you have time please do post some samples. I wanted to mount the project in the 1550G before posting a build report, but glad you were able to mount it and post it here.
If I can, I'll get Ironbird13 around again to do some demo'ing for me. (This time I might even tell him before 5 minutes into recording ;-) )
Quote from: electricstorm on May 18, 2013, 07:20:55 PMEdit: Thanks for the info on the Bourns transformer! Also one suggestion, should you decide to use a different voltage to power it with. There is a pad under the Regen Bias pot. If you drill that out (carefully), this will make it easier for you to make the adjustment when (or if) you change voltages. Just remember the direction you turn the pot will be reversed. The reason for having to adjust it when the supply voltage changes is that it affects the Regen Bias depending on the supply voltage used.
I've got a 3362 pot in there at the moment, next time I do a Mouser order I'm getting a Piher 22k to replace it with. (I'll widen the holes when I put it in.) For now, I'll live with the very mild setting.
Is there any way I can get the traces to print out on the transparency darker on this lovetone flanger...they are just far to light, I would never be able to get a decent etch from them.
I have had this happen a few times on other etching templates, and it is a bit annoying.
Don't know if it is because it is a pdf file, as JPG files always seem to print really black.
Anybody have any ideas??
Thanks
Mike
Mike,
I posted some PnPs of the boards in the dropbox (link is in my signature below). These were from png files and are in MS Word 2007 format. You should not have to re-size them, but print it out and check for correct size using a 14 pin dip socket on IC1 in the layout. Also check to be sure the 3P4P rotary switch lines up before using it to make boards. Like I said, you should not have to re-size it but better safe than sorry!
Also, Haberdasher has graciously offered to make boards available for this project. Check with him for pricing.
Hope that helps.
Jim
Hey Jim, thanks very much for your help on this... I will try it when I get up in the morning , sounds good :)
cheers
Mike
QuoteAlanp, glad you got it up and running on the first try! My first question is, were the build docs easy enough to follow? In other words, were they clear as to what to do? As far as the oscillation, that should occur with the Reaction control either between the 8:30 and 9 o'clock position or the 3:30 and 4o'clock position with the Time on and the Action anywhere except the 12 o'clock position. Did you use a 9 volt or 12 volt supply? Just curious. There is a little more headroom at 12vdc.QuoteThe guidelines seemed a bit subjective in terms of listening for oscillation, and I think I got it wrong :-/
I messed with the settings along with what I read from the users manual and concluded this from an original ? Flange I was able to obtain. But it may vary some and , as you stated, could be subjective.
Did you get a chance to play around with it today? Thoughts?
Mike, you're welcome.
Jim
Looking over the build docs for this. Way out of my league. That's a monstrous undertaking. I'll try something easier first, like a Univibe. ;D
Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk HD
Quote from: electricstorm on May 19, 2013, 05:08:54 PM
Did you get a chance to play around with it today? Thoughts?
Gahhhh... I spent 6-7 hours on it on saturday (including metalwork), and didn't want to think about it that night. Sunday morning, church, afternoon I had to meet someone... I get back and my flatmate is in bed (meaning no loud stuff... no point if it's not loud!)
So I plan on playing with it for a few hours today :) gonna try out the FX loop.
So epic. Good on you AlanP. You are a superstar for getting flange on the first try.
Flanges are one thing I do not DIY.
Great! Let me know how it sounds for you. If you are able, try the time out also ( Spcae(d) and Time Out use two amps for stereo). I don't have a second amp here so I haven't tried it out yet.
Let me know how the FX loop works out too!!
Jim
Got my man Ironbird13 to do some video for me. This is the second one, with the Lady muff running into it (plus expression pedal.) We tried stereo, sounds funky, especially since one amp was a 2204 JCM800 (80s marshall) and the other a 5E8A (50s Fender tweed.) The FX loop... oscillated with the Lady in it, and was a bit muddy with the Dub Dweller (but then that's a dark, lo-fi delay.)
A clean clip is uploading now... should be good in a couple hours.
Clean flange, no expression, no loop, nothing before or after (IIRC, the reverb might get turned on.)
The sounds you are getting are largely accurate to my original unit. Kudos.
Ill probably make one of these at some point, ive done all the others bar the Wobulator...
AlanP, the mono/stereo switch could have been subbed with a short bat toggle instead of the slide switch. That is most likely what I will go with. But I am curious, how did you do the rectangular hole for the slide switch?
The videos were great! Thanks for posting them.
Jim
Drilled out as much as I could with a small bit, then knocked it out with a hammer and a bolt, then filed it smooth. I didn't want to do a bat toggle, because what will happen if your foot lands on it?
After playing with it some more...
Every single Lovetone design I've tried has been insanely flexible (Doppelganger, Ring Stinger, and Flange.)
I highly recommend buying an expression pedal to use with the Flange, BTW -- it seems to open up even more sounds that we couldn't get otherwise, like the steel pipe thing. (The expression on the Stinger just increased the insanity, a LOT.)
I'm not sure about the FX loop, though -- Lace, Jim, are you guys finding that even when it's off, (and the pedal in the loop is on), having something connected affects the non-Loopage tone? The oscillation we got with the Lady hooked up to it was fun, though ;D
The only thing I ever tried in the flange loop was a delay, and it certainly analog-ises it as described.
I could check I spose whether I got any nasties in the main sound but I dont recall that...
I didn't have any problems either with signals in the FX loop when the FX loop was off.
I have two expression pedals here and I built a couple of the light jacks as well. That was pretty cool to play around with. If you like, I'll dig out my notes later and let you know what I did to make it or maybe build some and sell them (cheaper than what they sold for a while back. I think someone sold them for $50, way too expensive).
Jim
Quote from: electricstorm on May 21, 2013, 02:46:01 AM
I didn't have any problems either with signals in the FX loop when the FX loop was off.
I have two expression pedals here and I built a couple of the light jacks as well. That was pretty cool to play around with. If you like, I'll dig out my notes later and let you know what I did to make it or maybe build some and sell them (cheaper than what they sold for a while back. I think someone sold them for $50, way too expensive).
Jim
You can build the light jacks for literally a dollar or less
Standard T/R/S jack, solder an LDR across the T and S
PLug it in, wave hand over, have fun ;)
What resistance LDR are we talking here, Lace?
10k light 1M dark would be a starting point IIRC
whatever the Tayda cheapo generics are work just fine.
hth
Hi alan
sorry to gravedig
what is the extra resistor you have tacked on the board, left hand side half way up in your gut shot?
thanks
Ian
That was because I didn't have trimmers in the right value at the time, so I had to parallel a resistor to bring it to the spec'ed value.
ah ok thanks
got the first one of mine up and running but used 50k/5M LDRs while waiting for Small bear.
The flange sounds awesome but the trem (space) lacks a bit of depth / volume. LDRs will fix that I hope.