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Thanks Jon. The bypass worked fine. I know better than to write a panic post without any info. The issue was simply the two 1/4" jacks not being tied together. I typically ground ally pedals the same way with good 'ol star grounding but the wiring diagram didn't show a common ground outside of the board but of course as soon as I tied them together it worked great. Silly me. Thanks for the help man. You're one of the mainstays on these forums and have helped me out on many occasions. Thanks bro.

I just put together the deadringer 2 and I'm getting no signal past the input jack. I feel I've done this to myself before but cannot remember wht the issue is. My computer has been infected with some awful virus so I'm not able to upload pics right now but I'm workin on it. I wired it exactly as the diagram goes, with no extra grounding. Not sure what's up but when I probe it the audio signal stops abruptly at the input jack tip. I don't even get a signal at c1. Not cool. I'm quite sure that the issue is rediculously simple and embarrassing but heh, I'm no genius. Thanks for the help gents.

Thanks Jacob. I had actually mis-spoken (mis-written?). I was working on two projects at the same time and one called for the 1044s an the other 1044spca. The kingslayer called for the SPCA anyway. Duh! Thanks again!

I've recently put together a kingslayer and am having a very bizarre issue. Everything works as it should an I'm wondering if the tc1044scpa I used is slightly different than the tc1044s? Not a ton of info inline. Thanks guys

If you're looking at the bottom of the 3pdt it would be numbered ; 147
                                                                                                 258
                                                                                                 369
So I was thinking an 1/8 watt 68-ish resistor may eat up some of that squeal. So in retrospect, it would be pins 1 and 3, and also pins 7 and 9. I'm thinking that what you are experiencing is the monetary simultaneous contact of the switch. The resistors would be acting similar to a pull down resistor. YOu may need to use a much larger value. Good luck man. Let me know if this helps

Maybe a resistor (68k ??) between pins 1 & 2, and another between pins 2 & 3. I would use an 1/8 watt just for space availability. This pot switching thing is pretty clever! I've never thought about that. Good work man. I hope this helps.

Hey Jon, I reviewed the scheme and took your advice and replaced the resistor with another (since the bands were askewed on the resistor on the board) and same result. It seems actually as if when I turn the gain down I get 0 volume. Seems to speak of a problem with the clean portion of the dual gang pot. Further inspection tomorrow. Still, any insight isuch appreciated.

I've put together quite a few aion pcb projects and Kevin is as solid as they come. I've built myself a single channel KOT (prince of tone ) and I had the same popping when engaging the KOT clone. I've done a ass ton of research and it seams that this is common with this curciut. The output (volume) should be solid. Are you getting the rest of the pots to work as they should? With the MG clone, when reflowing solder, you may have made a tiny solder bridge. If you grounded or connected one pole of the switch to the other you would lose the switches ability to switch between diodes. Do you have an audio probe?

I just built a kingslayer and as I've had a klon and built more than a few klones, I have a pretty solid idea of what this is supposed to sound like. So I fired this thing up and it sound great. LED is working, bypass (I chose TB for this build), and all 3 pots as well as both mod switches are exactly as should be. The problem is that even when maxed out, I can't reach unity output, much less boost my signal. It is totally audible, but maybe 10% less than the bypassed signal. What the hell could be causing this? The signal is passing as it should through the whole curciut but I'm losing a lot of volume somewhere. Help? I'm working on posting pics, but it'll be a bit. Thanks guys.

Thank you M, that is exactly what I was after. Ver, very much appreciated.

Thanks Paul. I saw the diagram that Chip posted (which is the clearest and cleanest order switching diagram I've seem so far!) but as I'm still working my way through exactly how this stuff works (it's great AND handicapping that you can learn how to do before why in the DIY effect community!) an I'm a bit confused about what each connection does on these 3 switches. I typically wire my TB switches a bit differently I THINK but due to the interaction between the 3 switches I'm a bit confused.  I'm looking to use a 3pdt toggle for order switching so no LED is needed, but I need to know what each of the pins do on the 2 effect engage/bypass foot switches so I can adjust my footswitch wiring. The effect in and outs are clear but the typical pins I use for jack in (pin #1), jack out (pin #8), LED (pin #5), seem elusive to me. Also, can I use pin 1 of the effect engage/bypass footswitch for and LED, or do I need a 4pdt for those 2 footswitches? I apologize for my lengthy and fairly ignorant inquiry. Thanks in advance as always. I'm just concerned that my usual footswitch wiring won't jive with this setup.

I know I'm kind of beating a dead horse here, but I plan in using a 3pdt toggle for order selection so no LED is necessary for order clarity. For an LED indicator, would I use pin 1 of each of the effect footswitches (top left of each footswitch in the diagram) or would I need a 4pdt footswitch?

No, it's described as "almost hardwired true bypass". I believe the two pull down resistors are in series with the jacks but not totally sure. I've heard the new ones may be true bypass but mine is a tone crusher. The dpdt is tricky but not used correctly for true bypass. Info in elusive. Thanks though Josh.

I'm sure this has been handled a dozen or more times before but I can't seem to find any info on this oddly enough. I've done a ton off d's on the GCB wahs (vocal mod, LED mod, true bypass sweep range, etc) but I'm having a hard time finding what I need. Anyone have the info or a link?

Hey jimilee, I've seen this post before and did some serious searching for these flipper boards, talked Barry at guitar PCB and hit up a few other resources for some order switching boards but came up empty. Does any of this still exist? I'm comfortable wiring these 2 effect, 1 box effects with order switching but the boards would seriously cut down on the messy wiring. Any help would be most appreciated. Thanks man