Messages

Here's a thread that works towards a transistor based approach towards a Rat.

https://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=129355.40

I haven't built a Cave Dweller but I have built a Ersatz Verben and found it to be a really good slapback for a simple build and works well for me.

There's a lot of to be learned about getting different features out of PT2399 delays by reviewing Brian's Zero Point versions.

Each version brings a little something different to the table. It's altogether the best series study by schematic of a working with a PT2399 that's out there and can provide a ton of inspiration for breadboarding IMHO.

That Brian put the designs all in one zip seemingly so the community can recognize it as the study that it is a great boon. Thank you Madbeans.

Here's a link to the zip in the archive.
https://www.madbeanpedals.com/projects/archives/Delay/ZeroPoint.zip

I don't know if there is any plans of offering a ZeroPoint in the future as a part of the reissues that I've read Brian hinting at but I'd personally love to see an offering of the SDX2 boards.

I'll give a shout out the Stompboxparts.com too. Fair prices with quick shipping. 9mm pots are cheaper than Tayda for most values and good quality.

I order from Tayda a lot but prefer Mouser for electrolytic capacitors and cmos chips and the wider inventory.

Utsource.com is a great resource for getting harder to find parts, bulk jellybean chips, transitors, etc.

The components that are supplied by them directly come with a money back guarantee of authenticity which is a good thing from an Asian supplier considering the fakes out there.

They don't guarantee items that they fulfill through affiliated companies though. It's easy to understand which is which looking at the site. I've yet to have a problem with anything I've ordered from them directly.

I personally only order from Small Bear if I only need a few peticular harder to source parts but don't want to make a bigger order elsewhere. I

Drilling is my least favorite part about building and I generally don't put art or labels on pedals since I just build for myself and friends.

I wish someone carried a better selection of predrilled enclosures on the cheap. Tayda's prices are good and I use a bunch of thier predrilled 125b's but thier predrilled 1590b's are awkward for me to work with the way they are drilled for board mounted hardware. It'd be nice if there was 1590a predrilled 1-4 knob options.

At least there are plenty of captures in the wayback machine.

http://web.archive.org/web/20220308192557/https://www.electrosmash.com/

Although a little dated in the ever changing market this guide on the Aionfx site has a lot of good tips about parts sourcing. https://aionfx.com/resources/parts-sourcing-where-to-buy-what/

+1 to Stompboxparts.com. Fair prices on quality components with 24 hr processing of orders. I suggest getting 9mm pots from there among other things.

Be cautious with ebay there are a lot of sub par parts and fake components to be found there. It's currently an easy way to show Ukrainian support by buying germanium transistors, diodes and tubes from sellers there and getting them out of harms way...

I have had good luck getting some harder to source components in quantity from UTSource.net when I could not find another source. They have a quality guarantee and return policy for components that they directly sell. They sell 3rd party components too. The fine print is on their website. They are by no means my go to supplier but definitely a good resource.

And don't underestimate salvaging parts. That old radio might have the germanium transistors for your next fuzz and a casio keyboard hanging out of a dumpster might have a bucket brigade chip that is otherwise hard to source and expensive.

he's still a bit intimidated by units with lots of controls like the 4-knob Junk Trunk.

The Slurpee is a 5 knob version of the Bassballs topology with some of the Mark Hammer's mods.

You can get a Bassballs board that's the stock 1 knob version from Fuzzdog and possibly others. Nobody sells a prefabed board with any of the mods as far as I know.

There's a few threads over at diystompboxes.com that discuss the Bassballs circuit and contain some mods that aren't incorporated in the Slurpee.

I probably should do that one as a regular project since I have the bass series now. Seems like an obvious choice.

Absolutely. I definitely would have bought one instead of adapting your layout to perfboard with a bunch of off board wiring.

Thanks for the fluffgirl link Jimlee.

I build a Slurpee a few days ago.  It's a great take on the Bassballs topology.

There is a few different threads with other mods over on diystompboxes.com that are worth looking over.

I have the fluff girl build doc. You can layout the schematic and have some boards made.

Can you share the build doc Jimlee? I don't see anything about it searching around.

It depends on the charge pump that you installed as well as the current draw when you're using multiple voltages at the same time.

You can run a Klone on a Road Rage.

I personally have my testing unit set up with each voltage going to it's own banana plug jack which makes it easy to know what is what and I can use multiple taps at the same time.

I've thought about putting the unfiltered +9v tap on a rotary that goes to a selection of regulators, like 1.2v, 4.5v, 5v, 7.2v, 8.2v or to a sag pot but haven't done it.

Maybe one day I'll get it together and have a unit with that going on as well as a signal generator, lfo and headphone amp but I keep making effects instead of utilities...

Sadly the datasheet for the Max1044 says that the max voltage is 10.5v.

I think that the best thing for me to do is remove the jumper, swap the diode and replace the Max1044 with a LT1054.

I'm glad that's what I used on both of the RoadRage testing units that I've built. Even though I never really use the 15v jack.

If my first one had failed it would have been a big hurdle in my early breadboarding.

After this I don't think that I'll buy another Max1044. Seems they're too problematic.

Thanks for the tip Matmosphere.

I use a San June red PSU brick and the 9v outputs vary from 9.1 to 9.48.
Not really sure which port I used before but I'm gonna mark the lower ones as my charge pump ones.

This morning I switched out the jacks and put a new charge pump in the socket.

Same PSU. Same everything else including trying it before a Pitch Pirate that I've been swapping ldr/leds with my RoadRage based proto/breadboarding unit.

The new Max 1044 has survived everything that I've done so far. Third time seems to be the charm.

So is using the hardware jack switch for grounding in conjunction with a charge pump and a latching 3dpt something that you just can't do?

If so perhaps a word of warning should be written into the 3pdt-05 and RoadRage pdfs.

Too often I forget to tin the tip when I turn it off but I've found that it's more important to tip life how it's cleaned.

I was watching some YouTube videos awhile back and saw a Mr. Carlson's lab where he advised not using a wet sponge to clean the tip as the shock greatly reduces tip life. Constantly quenching isn't good.

Instead I just use a scrubby cup and a little fresh solder if necessary.

Since I've been using the scrubby cup alone my tip stays nice and clean and has barely aged at all after something like 20 builds.

I've never tried the tinner stuff as I'm not sure if it's a good mix with the flux in my lead solder.

I recently build 2 pedals something akin to a EQD Dirt Transmitter only with trimpots for both collectors and the shunt feedback resistor as well as a switch to swap the caps between the emitters.

I've got Russian Germaniums in both. One pedal is +9 NPN and the other pedal is -9 PNP.

On the -9 one I used a 3pdt-05 RoadRage charge pump on a footswitch board from the shop. I used a Max 1044, the jumper and the correct diode for the chip.

I works first off but then somehow the charge pump stops working.

The only thing that I can think of is that maybe charge pump's don't like how I have the jacks wired. I currently have both input and output wired so that the jack grounds when there is no plug in the socket.

Is this what's blowing my charge pumps?