Topics

Hey all:

Looking for some tips on how you typically go about troubleshooting pedals. I'm testing out a board I built out on a test box and something is way off. Originally, I wasn't getting any signal at all, so I triple checked I'm following the layout and found some spots with some sloppy solder work that was connecting rows incorrectly. Now I'm getting a signal, but it's crackly as all hell and the dynamics are all over the place. One second it's quiet and the next it's piercingly loud. Any advice on how to get this resolved apart from me throwing my tools in the ocean?

Thanks,
George

Hey everyone:

I'm looking for some help finding the right rotary switch for a Big Cheese clone I'm building. I've got my hands on a rotary switch, but it seems to have 10 different positions (meaning, it clicks 10 times when I turn it). I've deduced this is not a 3P4T rotary switch and that I'm an idiot. I've populated the board and tested it out, but I'm not getting a signal. I'm guessing it's because I've wired in the wrong switch.

Would this be the correct switch?

http://smallbear-electronics.mybigcommerce.com/26mm-enclosed-3p2-4t/

Here's the layout:

http://tagboardeffects.blogspot.com/2012/04/vero-build-guide.html

Thanks!
George

Hey all:

Another basic question: how do people typically cut stripboard down to size? I've got a new board that I'm trying to size for a build, and was curious if there were any quick, tried and true ways to trim stripboard. I've used an exacto knife for perfboard in the past, but that was time-consuming and not sure it would work in this case.

Thanks for any tips!
George

This is an extremely dumb question, but something I've always wondered about as I've stumbled through a couple builds. How easy is it (if at all) to "fry" a component when you're soldering your board? I imagine it's fairly easy with delicate things like op amps, but is that true? Can you mess up resistors, caps, pots by keeping them on an iron for too long? Any tips on how to avoid that, besides just getting quicker at soldering?

Hey all:

Just getting back to building after a very long break and could use some help deciphering the guide for this Big Cheese clone I've always wanted to build:

http://tagboardeffects.blogspot.com/2015/12/lovetone-big-cheese.html

1. Am I reading this right that when it says "IN" next to the board that I should wire the input to the hole directly next to it? In this case, input goes to the first hole on the seventh row?

2. When it says "Switch A" does that refer to the 3P4T bypass switch? And does "Switch 7" refer to the 3P4T rotary switch for this build?

3. Lastly, what does "Q1" refer to at the top of the board?

Many thanks for the advice,
George

I'm wondering if anyone has an experience repairing a Tascam MF-P01. I was recording the other day, and the power suddenly shut off. I've tried a number of adapters to get it restarted, and nothing.

Could this be an issue with the fuse? I opened it up, and it doesn't look possible to see if there's a cold solder joint on the power jack.

Any tips are much appreciated!

Thanks,
George

Hey all:

I recently built this Big Cheese clone on perfboard and it appears to be busted. Getting no signal when trying to test. Still very much a beginner, so wondering if I may have accidentally fried some of the components – maybe the single opamps? If anyone has insight into trouble spots I can start looking at to test, I'd really appreciate it. Attaching the schematic here.

Thanks!
George

Hey all:

I'm trying to build this Big Cheese clone (schematic attached) and am not 100% sure how to wire the 3PDT rotary switch.

For example, does this schematic mean the poles 8 & 7 are wired together while 6 and 5 are left as is?

Thanks for the help!
George

Hi all:

I'm trying to create this clone of a Lovetone Big Cheese, and the schematic calls for a 3P4T rotary switch. This is my first time working on a project with that kind of switch, so would love a little guidance.

http://www.geofex.com/Article_Folders/grtchedrschm6.PDF

Looking to buy this switch from Mammoth Electronics – would a 3P2-4T switch do the trick? What's the difference between this and a 3P4T version?

https://www.mammothelectronics.com/collections/rotary-switches/products/alpha-2-4-position-rotary-switch-pc-mount

Thanks in advance.

George

Hi all:

I'm trying to find the right transistors to make a Superfuzz clone I'm working on really sing. I've read that the 2sc828 is essential. Would this part from Smallbear do the trick?

http://smallbear-electronics.mybigcommerce.com/transistor-2sc828a-r/

Thanks,
George

I'm working on a Superfuzz clone, which has led me down a transistor rabbithole, which in turn has taught me I have some major gaps in my understanding of how transistors work. Some builders say the 2sc828 is a necessity, others say it doesn't matter as long as the trannie has a high gain. A few questions about the basics:

1. How do you measure the voltages of the transistors? One thread gave the exact measurements you should see in each transistor – I'd like to give matching that a shot.

http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=64068.0

2. What does it mean to "match" transistors? Some commentators urge you to match the trannies in the octave section...I have no idea what that means. First of all, where is the octave section (schematic attached)? Secondly, if the two parts I use are both 2sc828s, aren't they automatically matched?

Thanks for any help you can lend!
George

Hi all:

Hoping to get some sage advice on a Superfuzz clone I'm trying to build. Taking a crack at the BYOC Leeds Fuzz (schematic attached). I've successfully breadboarded the circuit – I'm getting a signal, at least. The problem is that it's just not that fuzzy. I mean, when I turn the amp down and the guitar up I get a nice crackle, but when guitar and amp are both up to a nice, normal playing volume it is more like a boost, and nowhere near that evil fuzz I'm looking for.

Could this be an issue with the transistors? I couldn't find any of the trannies specified in the schematic. Over at the DIY Stompboxes forum, I read those are nothing special, and I could swap out for six 2N5088 transistors, which I did.

Could it also be diodes 1 and 2? I don't have germanium, so used a silicon replacement I read about, again, on DIY Stompboxes.

Thanks for the assist everybody.
George

Hey all:

Is it possible for a 3PDT switch to not latch for some reason or another? When I try to play this pedal, I get the effect signal just fine. However, when I hit the switch nothing happens -- it stays fuzzy. Then when I hold the switch down, the signal goes clean. Has this happened to anyone before? In need of some sage advice.

Thanks,
George

Hey All:

I'm beginning to think my solder tip is a little too chunky to be as accurate as I'd like. I see there are some threads discussing solder tips, but I was wondering if I picked up any random replacement online if it would fit this Stahl model iron I'm using:

http://www.amazon.com/Soldering-Station-Features-Continuously-Variable/dp/B0029N70WM

Any recommendations for good, thinner tips I could cop?

I'm also curious about when the iron may be too hot. Is there an ideal heat for soldering on Madbean boards? Desoldering? I get worried about whether or not I'm messing things up when I desolder and have the iron on the board for more than a handful of seconds.

Thanks,
George

I'm looking for some sage advice debugging this bad boy. Believe it or not, despite the crappy soldering, I had this Bumblebee board working. I went back last night to test again before boxing it up and now I'm getting nothing. There's some crackling when I wipe the pots, but other than that the signal isn't coming through.

I'm hooking the board up to a text box that I built for this and future projects. The bypass switching is working fine. Does anyone have any advice? I'm including pictures of the board, pots, and the text box. Really eager to get my first project completed. Any help you all can lend is much appreciated.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/vok5xofkiyo69ez/20140204_080622.jpg
https://www.dropbox.com/s/htnf0rb47c637sw/20140204_080633.jpg
https://www.dropbox.com/s/plnj5qqarut8pit/20140204_080741.jpg
https://www.dropbox.com/s/5e3nxzez197yb0a/20140204_080758.jpg
https://www.dropbox.com/s/hao6c6gq429alnq/20140204_080823.jpg
https://www.dropbox.com/s/03o0kkt3macp9rj/20140204_080834.jpg
https://www.dropbox.com/s/1iezlu22bgar2gd/20140204_080851.jpg
https://www.dropbox.com/s/x5ctgtdn0p76yje/20140204_081403.jpg
https://www.dropbox.com/s/tao1lok3akax3vx/20140204_081409.jpg
https://www.dropbox.com/s/dnb718fflum3v9q/20140204_081416.jpg

Thanks!
George

Hey All:

I just bought the "Continental" PNP germanium transistors off small bear. I'm trying to be extra careful with this build. Does the red dot on the side of the transistor mean emitter or collector?

Thanks so much,
George

Hi All:

I've been burned before by not buying the correct components. I've yet to make a successful build, so I'm as noob as you get. If someone could look over the caps I'm buying from Mouser for the Bumblebee and Pastyface I would really appreciate it.

Also, I cannot find the 1n34a diode on Mouser. Any tips on a suitable replacement?

Bumblebee
C1, C5 - 100n
http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=150104J400ECvirtualkey53900000virtualkey539-150104J400EC

C2, C3 - 4u7
http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=SEK4R7M100STvirtualkey53900000virtualkey598-SEK4R7M100ST

C4 - 1n
http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=150102J630BBvirtualkey53900000virtualkey539-150102J630BB

C6 - 47uf
http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=SK470M025STvirtualkey53900000virtualkey598-SK470M025ST



Pastyface (Sola Sound Tonebender)
C1, C5 - 100n
http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=150104J400ECvirtualkey53900000virtualkey539-150104J400EC

C2 - 220pf
http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=CK45-R3DD221KANRAvirtualkey52130000virtualkey810-CK45-R3DD221KANA

C3 - 10uf
http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=SS100M016STvirtualkey53900000virtualkey539-SS100M016ST


C4 - 220n
http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=150224J400FEvirtualkey53900000virtualkey539-150224J400FE

C6 - 2.2
http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=DME1W2P2K-Fvirtualkey59850000virtualkey5989-100V2.2-F


68 - 22uf
http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=SK220M016STvirtualkey53900000virtualkey598-SK220M016ST


These look about right?

Thanks so much,
George

Hi All:

I'm trying to make extra sure I buy the correct caps for the Bumblebee build. The build doc suggests Mallory 150s for the axials, but I can't seem to find those anywhere I look (I usually buy from Mouser). Does anyone have suggestions for alternatives? If you wouldn't mind telling me the correct voltage, as well, that would be awesome. Also, the non-electrolytic caps should be ceramic, right? Just trying to do my homework this time. I attempted the Mangler a month back and really phoned in buying the correct parts. I paid the price, and am being extra cautious this time.

Thanks so much,
George

This may be answered somewhere else, but I couldn't find it after a search. I'm attempting to make the Bumblebee and am curious about the PCB mount pots. I already have some pots that will work, but they are not PCB mounts. Can I use any old pot or does it have to be mounted?

Thanks for any help.
George