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Yeah, Pin 3 sounds good on IC 1. All other pins are noisy. Pins 1 and 2 are quiet but distorted. Pins 11, 13 and 14 has distortrion with high pitch noise.

I replaced that 1n8 with a 2n2 for testing purposes. Didn't make a difference though.

I did measure every resistor before I added it to the board but I will go back through and veryify all parts.

Thanks
Josh

Hey,

I finished off a Nautilus tonight but I'm having some problems.

Overall it sounds like a distortion pedal with some white noise and a very high pitch tone. Bandpass gives the clearest and loudest high pitch tone.

The Gain knob functions. The HP/LP/BP filter works. The range switch turns the LED on and off but I get no movement in the brightness of the LED.

Sweep, Peak, Hi/Lo don't appear to effect the sound.

I used the Macron MI1210CLF-R from small bear. I verified they do have F written on them.

Here is a photo of the Macrons.



Anyway I get test if the Macrons are good? Can they be damaged by heat?

This is frustrating because I had a good streak going finishing off a Multiplex, Zero Point SDX and a couple flangers without issue  

For ICs I am using:

TL074CN x2
TC1044SCPA

Thanks for any suggestions!

BTW next to the lower Macron it looks weird because I didn't have a 1n8 so I used a 1n, 560pf and 220pf

I did reflow everything

Thanks. Excellent info! Yeah they are just cheap ceramic caps from mammoth. I'll just use it for now to check out the circuit and i'll replace it next time I order from small bear.

C9 is connected to ground from pin 5 of the JRC4558 so I'm guessing that wouldn't be in the audio path and I may be fine with a Ceramic.

As long as we are on the subject: what are the audio characteristics of a typically grey film box cap vs the brown poly film caps?

Thanks,

Yeah I guess I just wasn't sure if ceramic can sub for film in all occasions. I take it that it can?

I guess I've never seen it written anywhere that this should be true but I think of pf as ceramic caps and nf as film caps

Thanks Jacob!

Hi,

Can I sub a 3300pf 50v ceramic Cap in place of a 3n3 film cap for C3 or C9 in Collosallis? When I placed my order I only ordered 1 3n3 cap 

Related question: Why is a 3300pf Ceramic Cap smaller than say a 680 pf 50v Ceramic cap?

How do I install photocouplers? I have never used them before. This is for a nautilus build. I ordered from small bear. I assume the dot lead goes in the square hole?

Thanks!!

it almost has a nine inch nails broken vibe to it. i've never heard a strat and tweed deluxe sound so narly!

Ah ok.

I got it to work. I had to ground both the input and output jacks to get any signal to pass and ground the board to the enclosure to get rid of some hum and clock noise from the mod section but now it's dead quiet and sounds great!

Ha, that's just a drum loop in garage band: "80's Pop Beat 18."

Yeah with the octave up switch engaged it almost has a ring mod effect on chords. Pretty cool stuff.

Finished off a wolfshirt.

I love this thing! Sounds so awesome.






A little demo I whipped up tonight.

62 RI Strat > Wolfshirt > Zero Point SDX (for final lead and sustained chord) > Tube Depot Tweed Deluxe > SM57 > Focusrite Saffire > Garage Band (no eq or effects)

[soundcloud]https://soundcloud.com/donkey-rhubarb/madbean-wolfshirt-demo[/soundcloud]

This thing is great at picking up radio. You'll hear a little ESPN radio in the background at the very end.

Hey,

I'm working on boxing up a ZPD but I can't seem to find any info on the the low profile jacks, which is T, R, S? They are numbered 1, 2, 3...

Google isn't turning anything up.

Thanks!

I ordered the MLCC from mouser.

But this brings up a question:

When do you use ceramic / film / electro / Tant / MLCC?

I'd guess film and ceramic are mostly based on value but how do you know if you need an electro / Tant / MLCC?

Also still curious on the other holes in the board and best way too connect the baby board to the main board.

Thanks!

Thanks a lot everyone!

A few more questions:

There are some other holes in the board, like under IC4. Am I supposed to do something with those?

Do I only need to connect 1 In / Out grds?

I'm a little confused on how the switch pcb is supposed to connect to the main PCB. Should the holes be lined up directly on top of one another? I'll be connecting with wires. Should I use an inch of wire then I can move it around where ever it fits? Is that the idea?

Thanks!

9V in at board: 9.52
Ground in at board: .3

IC voltage readings:

IC 1 4558 (Starting at top left circle. Space starts the top right column of pins)

4.75
4.75
4.33
.3

9.45
4.71
4.73
4.68

IC 2 MN3007

9.44
4.75
4.28
Constantly moving over +9v counting up

5.1 - 5.3
5.1 - 5.3
4.7
.4

IC 3 CD4049UBE

9.43
4.65
4.70
4.70
4.70
4.68
4.74
.5

moving around
4.65
4.72
moving around
4.67
4.67
3.67
4.67

IC4   CD4013B

4.71
4.74
moving 4 - 9v
.3
4.73
.3
.3

9.47
9.47
.3
.3
.3
.3
.3

IC5  LM324N

4.74
4.74
4.69
9.49
moving 1.2 - 1.9
moving 1.2 - 1.9
moving 1.7 - 3.9

moving 3 - 5
4.37
4.35
.4
moving 3 - 4 - Overlimit
4.35
moving 1 - 3 - Overlimit

IC6 LM311N

.4
moving 1 - 3.5
moving 1 - 2.5
.5

9.45
moving 5 - 7
9.45
9.45



Q1 Left to Right on the flat side
5.4
6
9.43

Q2
1.01
1.57
6.06

Q3
9.17
8.57
jumps between 1.3 up to 3.5

I finished off a current lover tonight.

It has a really great sound but more subtle than I would like and more subtle than my electric mistress. Almost sounds more like my deluxe electric mistress.

To get a great / more extreme  flange tone I end up with noise at the bottom on the flange sweep.

Both trim and bias have a very small usable range. Only around extreame clockwise (1). Trim has a great sound in the middle of the trim pot but I can't bias out the sweep noise.

Does this all sound correct?

This is a 3007 version.

One other thing. I added D4, D5 and C5. I realized I shouldn't have and I just clipped them out of the board. I did jump C5 and I did jump IC2. Do I need to suck the solder out of D4 and D5 or is it fine as is?

I can change out the 4558 for a TL072 without issue? I had done that in my DMM and DEM with nice results but from some reading I had done that might have only been a good change because of the low input impedence, maybe it won't benifit this circuit?

Thanks!

C49 calls for a 1uf MLCC.

Can I sub a 1uf Tant? If so which way should the pos lead go in?

I also have a 1uf film box cap but it's way to big for that spot.

Thanks!