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This is only my experience from repairs. But of the switch repairs friends have asked me to do...90% have been Fulltone switches.

@raulduke, I'd still go see it. I really enjoyed it overall. There were just some things that didn't really need to be there.

@madbean, they did redo the ending. Originally Felicity Jones had something written in her contract to appear in future movies, but because of the reshoot for the ending they changed that up too.

It's odd to me that my wife and Bean have almost the exact same opinion...moving on.

I agree with somnif and Matmosphere. The first two thirds were a bit slow and sometimes awkward. I personally feel like they should have either explained more about the relationship between Jyn and Saw or just cut him out of the movie altogether. Saw had so much stuff in the trailers but basically added nothing to the film (which was really confusing). Also, what was up with the tentacle monster?

The last third of the movie was worth the price of admission for me though. All the tie-ins were great. I also loved how they portrayed Vader at the end. The hallway scene brought back the fear of the Vader that I remembered having when I was a kid (which the prequels kind of ruined..."NOOOOOOOOOO!").

As far as the CGI characters, I didn't really care much about Tarkin (although my wife hated it). And the 2 seconds at the end weren't terrible. But I don't think it was necessary. I feel like they could have brought in someone who looked similar to Peter Cushing and no one would have really cared.

That's a pretty impressive lineup. How do you go about doing graphics?

Also, I'm definitely gonna start using "Toggable" in my every day vernacular.

That looks awesome. I love PRS necks. They feel really comfortable. The satin look is great on that one.

Yeah, that was my gut instinct too. I was hoping to just be able to swap out a resistor but you were totally right. Swapping it to an A100k was exactly what it needed.

So I've built the Madbean Turnabout and it sounds really friggen good. The only problem I'm running into is that the output volume is super high. I can barely turn the volume knob before it's crazy loud. Any thoughts on how I would go about taming my output volume?

You are talking about the resistors on the jacks correct?

If so, I'll do it with out them.  If necessary i'll alligator clip them on to test it.  If it's better with I'll add them if not I won't.

Yes I am. Do exactly like you said and you should be good to go. Best of luck!

yeah, the Beavis site is being redone. If you do an image search then you'll get some saved versions of his stuff.

That diagram will work. I wouldn't personally add the resistors until you've tried it without them. It changes impedances and stuff that can make pedals go weird sometimes (if I understand it correctly).

But if you follow that diagram you posted then you'll be fine. You'll just solder to the lugs like it shows.

[LEDs]

That board won't work. It's designed for true bypass and that's all it will do.

You need to get a different board or solder directly to the lugs of the 3PDT according to your A/B switch diagram.

Also, I don't believe that diagram will work if I understand it correctly. I don't have access to my usual diagram right now but check out the beavis audio diagrams that are out there and follow that (Google "beavis audio a/b" and it should be the first one). In essence you need the following

This is your 3PDT with the lugs horizontal.

-- | -- | --
-- | -- | --
-- | -- | --

For your signal connections
Connect lug 2 (left column, middle lug) to your input jack
Connect lug 1 (left column, top lug) to your first output jack
Connect lug 3 (left column, bottom lug) to your second output jack
Connect lug 1 with lug 6 (middle column, bottom lug)
Connect lug 3 with lug 4 (middle column, top lug)
Connect lug 5 (middle column, middle lug) with ground to prevent noise

LEDs
Connect lug 8 (right column, middle lug) to ground
Connect the negative side of LED-1 to lug 7
Connect the negative side of LED-1 to lug 9
Connect the positive sides of both LEDs to a resistor (2.2k-8.2k will be fine) coming from the positive lug of the power jack

Make sure all your ground connections are tied together (either by wire or through the case) and you're good to go!

I'd love one of these to start playing around with. +1 on the PCB interest.

VB+ and Vref are both the same thing. They represent a different voltage level (usually 4.5V) that's created by a voltage divider.

The section marked Pins 4 and 8 are power (pin and ground (pin 4) for the IC.

If you look at both blocks you'll see a couple of tags (usually +9V and Vref). Those are places where the blocks connect. It's used to help clean up your schematic rather than showing all of the wires running around to all the Vref points and +9V points.

Does anyone have a template for a 125B with top mounted jacks and power? One that accommodates board mounted pots would be great.

I'm trying to put one of Aion's boards into a 125B to start moving all my pedals to top mounted jacks.

General practice is to get caps with a rating roughly 2x that of your voltage. I usually buy 35V or 50V because they're common and I'll never need to worry about it if I do that.

AFAIK there's no problem with using different voltage ratings as long as they're the right capacitance.