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Long story short - build it how YOU want it. Let everyone else worry about how they want to box it. I've got a a baby board in a 125B and two boards that were designed for a 125B going in a 1590BB (each), Because that's what I wanted to do with it.

Well you wouldn't use dip's for trannys. there's the machine tooled socket that I wouldn't recommend for chips.

:-O haven't had any problem with Tayda sockets. I live them too.

Nice and tidy..

Same here. Well done!

I think you're right - after looking at this. Can anyone else confirm our suspicions?

I have found some .22uf (220n) Kemet Tantalum Caps. Long lead and 2 Red Dots indicate the positive lead on them(in my experience) - So I need to check the orientation for placement the Weener Wah II. They are C3, C4, and C9. In looking over the layout and the schematic - I think the right side is the positive trace of those caps. Can anyone confirm this for me?I have 5 and need three so I can't afford them to blow. I know regular box caps would not matter - but on Tantalums it does. I'm told they stink to high heaven when you blow them and I'd rather not test placement that way.



Mojo-jo-jo. And yes that is a .0015 in C10. I know you load r's first - this is just a test fit to make sure there's room for everything.

Clay

Me? I'm boxing up my pedal board looper, just a simple Guitar In -> send to PB -> rec from PB -> Out to Amp. I have an old tube(tubes RCA Victor) console with a radio and record player I'm tearing apart and moding into an alcohol storage facility. That it has TONS of old school parts that I can possibly rob and make use of is a bonus. Does that count?

hey mate, please post it after finished! im interested in knowing more about loop..
cheers

Looper may be the wrong word.
It's a dumb box - I/O only no real circuit. It has 4 jacks, and each pair are connected. Top right jack gets the Guitar input, the top left connects that out to the first pedal. Go through all the pedals , plug the output of the last pedal into the bottom left, and connect a cable bottom right to your amp. Makes the board a little more portable.
I had a really bad blemished 125B that I got from Tayda (deep scarring , warped top, uneven lid, they credited it) and I thought it would be useful. Even after sanding I couldn't get the top flat enough for an etch - but it looks like it's been on the board for years. Used it at rehearsal Sunday, worked like a champ

There you go thinking again...
But you're right. I'd be better off switchable gain setting then a boost on it's own.
Hey wait ... I think I have one of those coming!

So when I'm ordering parts for the pedal - will I be able to get by with 3 3pdt's or will I need 1/2 4pdt switches since I'm going to go with 3 individual switches for what I'm wanting to accomplish. The selectable vol and gain individually will actually give more options.

I'll look into TTG's wicked switch -

I think for now I'll setup my Chunk Chunk for 3 switches -
1 Effect/Bypass -
1 - Vol1/2
1 - Gain1/2
I don't grok voltage divider... It looks like it's working similar to the volume which I think is a variable resistor. Now it comes to figuring out if I need a 4pdt or 3pdt for the Gain. It does appear that pin1 for both are part of the ground plane - and 2 and 3 are in the circuit are acting as a variable resistor. If I'm wrong - please educate! I have no real EE background.

With Relays you can do it. In many relay based systems you can put several DPDT relays in parallel, so putting multiple switches on a single stomp is possible. That's probably the most efficient. I don't know that there are any 5PDT stomp switches.

Jacob

I figured it would involve a relay solution - could it be done with 4 of these and a DPDT stomp? I think I'd rig it up on pad per or vero and use the switch to add or remove the voltage? I'm guessing here - I've never done much with a relay other than building a replacement stomp switch for my Amp - which was either open (clean) or closed (lead). I didn't do squat for that other than solder the switch and the RGB led up(power comes from pedal board).

This could be worth looking into further as I'd like a stomp solution for my wiener wah for the boost rather than a toggle switch

Me? I'm boxing up my pedal board looper, just a simple Guitar In -> send to PB -> rec from PB -> Out to Amp. I have an old tube(tubes RCA Victor) console with a radio and record player I'm tearing apart and moding into an alcohol storage facility. That it has TONS of old school parts that I can possibly rob and make use of is a bonus. Does that count?

Is there practical way to have 2 gain and 2 volumes on the Chunk Chunk? Accessible by a single foot switch? Think channel 1 and channel 2. Yeah it'd be the same tone, but you could setup a crunch preset and then a distortion one. I know I've seen switchable Gain and switchable volume on different pedals. I know you can switch and indicate a single pot swap thanks to Dano over at Bevisaudio. I know that we can go with 3 3pdt switches - Effect On/Off Gain1/2 MVol1/2, all indicated. My box for the Chunk could handle that and that might be more useful.

But now my curious mind wants to know, can you rig a single switch that swapped between the 2 sets (2 V 2 G) and had an indicator? It seems you need a 3pdt to get a pot and an LED - So a 4pdt could swap 2 sets of pots but give no indication (unless there's a way?)
 

Glad to see you built it! Looks great too! Much better than mine, but that's getting a redo on the housing because I was no where near happy with it.

R1 goes straight to ground and is taking all of your signal with it at 0Ω. You need to go the opposite direction and leave it out if you don't want to use it for pop reduction.

Bad science will get you every time... After removing that 0Ω, everything was great. Added the depth mod back in, replaced the wires making my pots pc mount style( thank you Brian for the trick! ). It's a little tight in there, Small Bear's 3PDT board was just right for the job. I should have played around more with the resistor for the depth mod, but for now it works.