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So the voltages at the emitters are
q1 4.2
q2 4.1
q3 4.2
q4 0.22

Seems q4 is the problem right? Funny this is the same thing that was experienced by the poster (postie...guy who posted?) and ended up changing r20-23

Just built a mudbunny creamy dreamer and am having some problems.
The sound I get is very low volume fuzz when sustain and tone are at mid. If I bring them up any
it starts crackling and I get some oscillating volume that goes from silent to very very loud.

I am using the newest pcb. I am using 4  5088s and oriented them per the pcb art. Also using 2n914s (d1-d4) and verified they are correct. Did the diode test on the 5088s and they seem fine. Unfortunately I did not socket anything (next time). Reflowed everything and checked the resistor values.

How should I take voltage readings here? From the emitter to ground?

I looked up past posts and found one that mentioned he couldnt get the creamy dreamer specs to work and ended up subbing the r20-24 resistor values for those in mayo....has anyone verified that creamy dreamer specs work on the pcb?

Any ideas?

Thanks,
Ben

I know that Mr Bean is a busy guy and all, but I just was wondering if there is anyway to determine when a pcb marked coming soon will actually be in stock. I noticed that some of the newer ones went from coming soon to preorder before they actually were in stock.  Is this standard? (Sorry I am new here)

If s,o I am wondering if all the pcbs marked coming soon, will go to preorder at the same time, or only some, and if only some, is there anyway to know which....

Side note, the cave dweller is really really amazing.

Ben

So, I've been building pedals for all of 2 months and a friend brought his Dead Maxon FL9 (flanger) to pool night for me to work on. I don't have high hopes but as I open it my eyes immediately go to 3 trimpots at the top and I notice that one of the wipers is GONE!. So I brought it home and found that it takes a 20k trim, and voila....back in bizniz.

Pat pat,
Ben

BTW it is a sweet sounding flanger

Haha, cool. I don't mind being wrong. 

Actually, i don't think you are. i forgot to mention that i switched to a 100k log pot for this mod (adhering to the specifics of the link), so the solution is a blend of both ideas. thanks again!

So, you used a 100k log pot and a 22k resistor? How much of the "haunting" is left? Can you still get say 10 repeats?

Thanks,
Ben

Ok. So I love my cave dweller, and the description of it being haunting is really true. However, I am finding it is sometimes too haunting in that if I have it set to long echo times and then stomp "off" and then stomp back on (say after 3 seconds) I can come into wildly out of control noise. It seems that the effect is still processing the signal when it is off and I guess without the input it can create its own feedback situation.

1) Does anyone else see this?
2) What could be done to stop it?

Thanks,
Ben

Everything is smoothie now

Thanks.
Ben

Arrrrgh. Just read the rules of posting for help...
Note any substitutions...
I am using bf245 instead of 5457s and the pinouts are reversed....oops...

Ok. So my smoothie is not giving any phase. Just same whether on or off (when ON I hear a slight decrease in bass). No change in volume and no phase. If I unplug the power I get no sound when ON as expected so I know it is going through the circuit, just no phase. 
IC1
1) 3.4
2)3.4
3)3.3
4) 0 ground
5)3.4
6)3.4
7)3.4
9

IC2
1) 3.4
2)3.4
3)3.4
4) 0 ground
5)oscillating between 3-5
6)oscillating between 4-5
7)oscillating between 3-6
9

The Transistors diode reading is
Gate +, Source -  0.75
Source - , Drain +  short (beep)
on both transitors

Help.
Any thoughts? Of what I should check?

is there anyone that sells matched jfets for phase circuits?  I know guitarpcb used to, but they're always out of stock of em

Yes indeed. GGG sells a matched set of 2N5485's for $3. I built a GGG phase 45 and these work fine:
http://www.generalguitargadgets.com/component/virtuemart/?page=shop.product_details&flypage=shop.flypage&product_id=189&category_id=8

GGG states that they are matched within 1/10th of a volt...

Well its hard to see anything wrong. I can see that you had to add more solder to make the ground connections (I imagine those tiny traces were hard to etch).Have you checked to make sure your pots are working (check the resistance and make sure it's changing as you move them)(;-))?
It's probably just the camera angle but are you sure the bottom joint 2nd from the left isnt making contact with the ground trace to the right(and up)? Also the bottom 3rd from the right and above it looks iffy. There is alot of  copper around that bottom one

Well I just built that one and mine works great...Maybe you could give us a photo of the top and bottom of the populated board, and a youtube video link of it. Just turn the time to mid, and pluck single notes and adjust the other 2 knobs.

Well, Ok. Thanks.
But really the question came about because the instructions say that the transistors much be matched, give a link on how to match them (yours, thanks again) but nowhere do I see any instruction on how close they should be/ need to be/ best to be.

Does a difference of .04 matter at all or is it a big deal?
I think I will try out some different values with what I have to see if I get a big difference with say 1.4 and 1.5, compared to the 1.37 1.4....I'll post what I find.

Ben

1.37 and 1.403 is closer by .004

Jacob

Ok, but is this close enough?

Transistors for the smoothie.
I tested 10 bf245 (all I had and came up with)
0.747
0.804
0.990
1.078
1.237
1.370
1.403
1.440
1.504
1.626

Would the 1.403 and the 1.440 work as a match?
Thanks,
Ben