Messages

Killer. I love Rats and my SL is absolutely a beast. Did you say you made a second one too?

Figured I'd let this one sit in the Bin of Shame for about a year and what a difference a year makes! I've been revisiting my bin lately with sharper, more experienced eyes and as of tonight two failed projects have been resurrected. I rebiased everything tonight, tightened up all grounds and gave it a whirl and it fired up! What an amazing pedal this is.

I've never found myself to be the kind of person capable of having "too much gain" but this comes close. Am I right in understanding that the EQ section is supposed to sit about 12 o'clock and be used as a boost or a cut? If I push them all, it goes to oscillation and squealing. But at 12 I can dial in good sounds.

Thank you to everyone who helped me out last year. And to anyone considering the Chunk, go for it. Get some reliable transistors and dive in. Cheers!!

Wow Paul I'm so sorry to hear about your boy, but glad thing seem to be turning around. We certainly understand you have to take care of yourself and your family. Let us know if there's anything we can do- you've given so much to this community. I know I've learned a ton from you. My thoughts are with you man. All my best.

PMd. Thank you!

Good evening all-
Sometime last year when Stomptown was blowing out all their boards, I picked up an Ickymuff and a Glacticon. I've got the Muff nearly populated and was about to start the phaser tonight when I noticed the build doc I downloaded doesn't match the PCB I have. If it was just a different layout I'd make it work, but its a different parts count. Since the website seems to be gone I was wondering if anyone had reference material they could share please.

The build doc I have is for the Galacticon Phaser 2-stage Phase Shifter (c) 2016. It has a speed pot and a bias trimmer, as well as 25 resistors and 11 caps.

The board I've got is Galacticon DX V1.0 (c)2014 and has 24 resistors, 14 caps, the trimmer, a speed and blend pot and an onboard 2PDT switch, (presumably for the script mod I'm guessing.)

Does anyone have this older build doc or know if Stomptown is still reachable? Their website redirects to a sales site now.

Much obliged. My plan is to put these two boards into one enclosure so I'm working concurrently on them. Thanks!

I'm doing a partial shabang. Feedback momentary switch, replacing the four main stomps, shortcut to looper and the volume knob. I already did the two resistors and mine didn't seem to have the four tone caps. I considered the double presets, but I don't need them. If this goes well I'll do it again for a buddy who does need them, but none of the other mods. I appreciate your help!!

Hey sorry for reviving such an ancient topic. This is literally the only place I've seen this specific mod discussed. I'm trying to do the volume pot mod on a DL4. I already did the two resistors. Can someone help clarify the specifics of what's required? The drawings and pics are tough to reconcile.

I've lifted the tabs and jumped the two closest to the edge of the board. I have a B10k pot with 1 and 2 jumped. I am not ready to run my actual lines for the pot yet since I have more work to do internally, so I used alligator clips to test the pot. I get no change. I'm unclear exactly where the pot should attach- the tabs or the contacts underneath. Are there any other tricks? Thanks in advance to anyone from a few years ago still paying attention to this!!

Thanks everybody!

My apologies. I've been up late this week.
You are correct about my intentions. I've installed an on/off/on switch, which in one position clips D1/2 and in the other clips D4/5. In the center (off position) it removes both sets of diodes and clips the opamp, a sound I'm fond of in other similar builds. I guess my main question was if there was another way to accomplish the same result but by using an additional switch. I recognize that it would be a less efficient use of time and parts, it was just a necessity I had come across when I only had on/on switches and no on/off/on switches in my bin. That's since been rectified. What would be the correct way to wire an additional on/on switch to effectively "lift" both sets of clipping diodes and send signal straight to the chip?

I guess I should have worded that differently. I didn't post the schem since it's one of Madbeans builds. Sorry.

I knew the on/off/on would work, as that is what I usually do. And that's what I did tonight. It's awesome. You know you have a solid build when you start writing riffs the second you fire it up!!

But for reference- if I had to use a SPDT on/on, could I interrupt the signal and get to just the opamp with an additional SPDT? My vision maybe jumping the center lug out to the kill switch and then back. When the switch is on, the diode selector goes between the two choices and when it's off you've basically disabled the switch, so it goes to the opamp. I feel like I have a wire missing. I haven't played with it yet.
Of course the +\-\+ is the easiest. But that's not always the best!

Good evening all-
I just fired up my SL and it sounds great. Of course it's late and everyone's sleeping, so my test was really just a function check but still. I love it. I'm one step closer to the Rats Nest I'm building.
Now I have a question about a mod. The SPDT in there currently just alternates between D1/2 and D3/4. Is there a way to remove both and have the opamp clipping as an option? Either by swapping out for an On/off/on switch or by adding a second SPDT and basically cutting out the middle lug of the original? Thanks!!

Unfortunately all four of those were actually correct. Must just be the lighting throwing off the colors. I'll still sit down this week and see about verifying every one of them again. 

Oh man do I hope that's it. Would certainly explain why it's exactly the same after reseating everyone. I'll check it tonight when I get home. I have already had an issue on this build where a 100 and 100k were reversed in my containers. Much appreciated. Will report back!!

Good evening once again. I took some time off and came back to this build tonight. I removed all of the board mounted pots and wired them up so that I could regain access to the components buried beneath. I reflowed every joint on the board while I was at it. I'm sure I'm not the first to apologize for the photos. I'm a sound guy, not a photographer!

When I rebuilt it, I rebiased and took readings, as shown below:
Q1: 4.74 .23 0
Q2: 4.43 .09 0
Q3: 5.32 .21 0
Q4: 4.81 .22 0

For entertainment value I also checked Q5: 8.04 6.5 4.81

My problem is still the same: bypass works, nothing when engaged. The buzz I hear changes when I sweep the gain. Anything obvious that I'm missing here? Next step is to remove the 3PDT and rewire it. Thanks all!

Does the middle leg variance on Q1 mean anything? All of my other readings were pretty solid. That one fluctuated.