Messages

You guys rock...got a couple of PM's and have some options....great!
Warren

Hi,
I'm looking for a pre-2015 version of the Lowrider PCB.  I absolutely love the pedal, and I've got a friend that wants one.  I built the 2015 version, but we both much prefer the older version. 
Anyone?
Thanks,
Warren

+1 to Pedal Parts Plus.  Worth the slight extra cost to me due to high quality and really fast shipping, regardless of what color I've ordered. 
I've had some issues as others with Mammoth in the past, generally pretty good, but I've had several orders that took a month to ship, way beyond their posted lead times, and screws that weren't a great fit.

If you want cheap, Tayda, and of course Smallbear is great too, wish they did colors.
Warren

Here's some pics of the Floydian Slip....11 effect multi with built in 5 channel true bypass loops.  A nightmare of wiring proportions!





and the soundclips are here:
https://soundcloud.com/user258480591/floydian

Enjoy!
Warren

Congrats to Lee, and all the other winners...amazing projects all.  Incredible creativity, skill and good old fashioned gumption.

I'm going to take the lectric-fx credit.  I'm a junky for flangers and phasers, and I gotta build that Bloodstone.

Thanks to Brian and all the other sponsors for their generous prize donations.  I hope to post up some of my build pics again sometime, but just started a new job, so my time and mental capacity is limited right now...no chance I'll be attempting another mega-board anytime soon, although there are plans for another with all modulation fx someday.
Warren

This definitely sucks, I'm going to miss all the BOTY build posts, drooling over Lee's wiring, seeing those crazy cut off fingers on the Buzzsaw....

I think folks have posted the correct order for the winners...congrats to Lee, well deserved, and thanks for everyone that voted for my Floydian Slip.  So many great builds.

Here's to a great 2016 of DIY, and restoring the lost knowledge, one post at a time.
Warren

Alright.  I went through every single resistor, measured it and compared it's color code where it couldn't be measured accurately (due to a cap charging or a parallel resistance) and found it 100% correct.   Now, being thoroughly perplexed,  I decided to think out of the box a bit, and even though I'd done all the recommended mods and replaced R21 and C14 back to 1K, I put them both back to 100k.  Dirtortion is now gone.  Excellent, however, my signal is too weak now.  So, I decided to put a 50k trim (all I had on hand) for R21, and now....voila, I can dial in just the right amount of signal until I get distortion.

I rebiased everything, and also replaced the feedback pot as Brian directed.

Long story short, it now sounds fantastic and works perfectly!  I'm very happy with it.
So, thanks to Brian and Scruffie for the assistance.  Whew, I now deserve a beer.  Then after the beer, I can throw it into an enclosure!

Thanks a lot!
Warren

Brian:
Yes, I'm using a 9V supply.  I reverified the jumpers for the 3205 (correct) and R11 and R12 are definitely 47K.  Perhaps the signal is too hot at pin 7 and it's just not as noticeable until the repeats and feedback enter the picture.  It is pretty loud on pin 7.  What sets the gain out of the compander?

Scruffie, the pin 2 & 6 of the BBD are almost exactly half supply so that seems fine, you're probably right about a bad value somewhere that's affecting the gain.  Where should I start looking?

Thanks guys, I appreciate the help.
Warren

Measured the clock with my DAW.  9.75kHz

Some progress: 
Adding another diode in series brought the voltage down to about 7.7.  That helped a bit, in that now the bias setting is not on the extreme end of the trim, but closer to the centre.  There is also less distortion, but it's still unusably bad.  Another observation is that I have to have the feedback pot almost completely CCW, otherwise it self oscillates terribly, that's with both gain trims fully CCW.  I can't bias it with the feedback half way, it's oscillating way too much and is a distorted mess.

I unfortunately don't have a scope to see the clock signal, my 4047 is a BE suffix, from TI.  I do have a capacitance meter, and C41 is very close to 240pF, I made it with 2 caps in parallel to get it close.  I'm going to try to rig up a signal to my DAW to get a reading of the clock signal.

Incidently, I happened to have another NE570, so for kicks I swapped it, it acts exactly the same.

Hi Brian,

Pin 5: 8.4V
Pin8: 8.2V
Pin 7: 8.3V

with bias CCW: 8.3V
with bias CW: 0.6V
I've actually already swapped the BBD with some others I had, and it does exactly the same thing.
Thx
Warren

Still no progress on this, but more to report.  Essentially, the signal is getting to the first BBD IC4 pin 7 just fine, no distortion, however, when it comes out of pin 3 and 4 of the BBD, it is fizzy and brutally distorted.  The only way I can get anything out of it is with the bias trim turned nearly completely CCW.  There is a tiny amount of trim where I get sound out, otherwise it cuts out completely.  Where can I start looking for problems?
Thx,
Warren

Some additional info, after checking my voltages versus the post Brian references from a working unit  http://www.madbeanpedals.com/forum/index.php?topic=3380.0

Everything looks pretty close except pin 7 on each of the BBD are reading the same as pin 8, around 8V.  MadebyMikes are closer to 6 on pin 7 and 8V on pin 8.  As I noted, I've already verified the bias trimmer and the 6.8k and 82k resistors and they are right...

Thx
Warren

Hi, just got my Dirtbag finished up.  I included all of Brian's suggested mods for the v3205 version (ie not the R21 and C14 listed in the docs, but instead the whole list of them in the errata in the forum post).  In attempting to bias the unit, I can get it to pass delayed signal, but the repeats are super crazy distorted.  Also, when biasing, I had to turn the bias trims almost completely CCW, I have a tiny amount of trim to work with before the delays don't pass anymore.  I have verified the trims, R23 and R22, everything is correct.

Any tips?  Many thanks.
Warren

Brian, now that it's working with the filtering, the question is:  why would this have been required?  I can only assume there have been many successful builds of the Aristocrat, and obviously lots of KoTs out there that didn't require this.  I used all the original parts, including the harder to find diodes. 
What in the circuit is making it so sensitive to noise on the DC in?

Thanks again,
Warren