News:

Forum may be experiencing issues.

Main Menu
Menu

Show posts

This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.

Show posts Menu

Messages - Ariosto

#1
Hello again,
As the problem still persist with this building, I took a break and come back with a fresh head. OK, I realised that when I connect my power supply (Boss PSA 2308 9V) the light indicator begins to flash intermittently (more than evident sign that somewhere is a shortcut). The Q5 BS250 get hot, and when I take away, the light indicator stops flashing (by the way, the Q5 was hot), I tried with almost 5 different of them and always the same behavior. I replaced D1, D2, IC7 LT1054 and the L7815 as well. I am still checking inverted capacitors, cold joints etc and apparently everything is fine. With my tester I become voltage only up to the "D" of the mentioned Q5. I connected 12V (inverted polarity) to R58 and the LDR1 (Photocell) turned on, but no delay signal at all, only normal audio. Maybe could somebody help me with such a mysterious case.

Thanks a lot
Ariosto
#2
General Questions / Re: VFE Bumblebee switch?
October 18, 2020, 11:00:17 PM
Quote from: Ariosto on October 18, 2020, 10:47:19 PM
Quote from: madbean on October 18, 2020, 10:44:27 PM
At the top of the PCB you'll see three large holes in a row b/w the 1n film cap and the 4 electrolytics. Solder it directly to the PCB. You can kinda see it in my build pic in the doc, too.
...... You mean, between the three electrolytic caps and the 1nf cap?
Sorry, stupid question. It´s too late here (Germany) I must go to sleep........... Thanks a lot for your help!!!
#3
General Questions / Re: VFE Bumblebee switch?
October 18, 2020, 10:47:19 PM
Quote from: madbean on October 18, 2020, 10:44:27 PM
At the top of the PCB you'll see three large holes in a row b/w the 1n film cap and the 4 electrolytics. Solder it directly to the PCB. You can kinda see it in my build pic in the doc, too.
...... You mean, between the three electrolytic caps and the 1nf cap?
#4
General Questions / VFE Bumblebee switch?
October 18, 2020, 10:34:29 PM
Hi,

Can somebody tell me where in the PCB must I solder the on/off/on switch ? Thank you!

Ariosto
#5
Well, I received 5 new voltage regulators today and gave them a try, but apparently that´s not the problem because I still don´t have voltage in the PCB......
#6
Quote from: danfrank on October 13, 2020, 11:24:52 PM
The center pin of the regulator should be ground... 0 volts. You either have a solder bridge or that regulator is bad
I ´ve already checked and there is any solder bridge. I can only guess that the regulator is bad like you said. I hate desoldering because the risk of damaging the PCB rings is always present. What do you mean? If I make a last test with an audio probe before desoldering could be an option? Is the absence of signal when the pedal is engaged a clear sign that the regulator is the problem?
#7
Quote from: danfrank on October 13, 2020, 12:37:46 PM
Well that's good!
What I would do is pull out IC7 and then check the diodes with your multimeter.
Even with IC7 out of circuit, you should get around 8 volts around pin 1 of the regulator
Well, I pulled off the IC7 as you recommended and the diodes measures 9.15V more or less. But something suspicious happen when I check the voltage in the regulator, because I become again 9 volt IN ALL THREE PINS...... Is that normal?
#8
Quote from: danfrank on October 12, 2020, 11:40:47 PM
See above
Well, I checked the voltages in Q4 and pin8 of IC 7. Both are 9.12 volt.
#9
Quote from: danfrank on October 12, 2020, 04:42:00 PM
You mean you're getting voltage on Q4? Q4 is the BS250 transistor, it should be passing voltage. If you're not getting voltage on pin 8 of the LT1054, then your BS250 is probably not working
Sorry, my mistake. I mean, Q5 and not Q4. Noob question again, must I have voltage in D1 and D2 as well? Because I don´t have any.
#10
I´m back. I checked the 9v input from thesocket until Q4 and it was everything OK, then I went to the D1 and D2 and there is no more voltage. Do you think I must replace them?
#11
Quote from: danfrank on October 10, 2020, 11:08:09 PM
Then the board isn't getting power, that's why the LED won't light.
Figure out why power isn't getting through to the regulator
Which problems are common in such cases? The diode perhaps? How can I follow the elctric signal? Tester or audio probe?
#12
Which problems are common in such cases? The diode perhaps? How can I follow the elctric signal? Tester or audio probe?
#13
Well, I am a noob, but I put the negative (black) tip of the tester to the ground and with the red tip I touched eah of the three tips, and there was no signal at all.
#14
HELP! I tried to measure voltages in the ICs and I don´t become any ! What could be wrong? The voltage regulator maybe? Up to the contact of the jack with the PCB I have 9 Volts.
#15
Well, I changed the MN 3001 and nothing changed........... Any other ideas out there?