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It just wasn't a great seller. I kept it around for several years but it seemed to have run its course so it got discontinued.

I came back looking for one of these- seriously one of my favorite sounding boosts ever- made me believe that boosts could be more than a SHO or a micro amp.  Any of the new projects have the similar +/- rails? 

https://shop.befaco.org/165-potentiometers

They look like the kind of pot that Befaco like to use.

Maybe a little bit- except the lack of nut and plastic shaft and d shaft.  aand befaco doesnt have anything close to 50kA.

Anyone got any other ideas?

I found an old Nobels that needs a new volume pot- It has a strange potentiometer in it- and neither 9mm or the 16mm are gonna work well.  Can anyone tell me where to get a pot that will work well here- the stock ones have a plastic D shaft thats a good bit longer than the 9mm pots and they dont need a nut.  The picture ive attached shows a standard 9mm pc mount that I tried to use on top- the bottom pot is the one I'm trying to find one similar to in 50kA.

Thanks!

What happened to the bacon bits!?!?  That was one of my favorite madbean projects of all time!!!  Seriously the best booster I've ever used.  Is it based off something that I can build on vero?  is it discontinued?  Anyone got any extras?

I checked my Octagon last night and it is very quiet (some minor noise when the mix and volume are maxed out, but not louder than expected).

Coincidentally, I was working on a ThreeVerb last night too and had a lot of noise...until I realized I totally missed populating the 10uf capacitor. Now it's very quiet too.

Could yours be something to do with filtering caps as well?

Thanks for the reply!  i def didnt miss a cap but Ill look over the power filtering again! Thanks!

The input to the Octagon is a buffer itself so obviously something is quite wrong. Have you taken any voltage measurements? I'd check the 9v rail and Vref rail first to make sure they are reading about 9v and 4.5v resp. Also, audio probing some key points to see where the noise is introduced:

Pins1 and 7 of IC1, pins 1, 2 and 28 of IC3, pins 7 and 1 of IC5. That would narrow it down.

i checked all the voltages I knew how to check a couple times (everything besides the fv1)  But I'll go back and double check as it was so long ago. 

One time I remember I powered it up and didnt experience the noise- then something shorted (it was just like a sleeve tab on my jack- on my ghetto test rig) and it came back! 

Ill get back to you with voltages- thanks for the replies and experience shared so far!

I built the Pedal Pcb Octagon a while back- and I'm having a strange noise issue.  I get a lot of white noise when using this circuit.  I've tried increasing filtering with little success.  But one weird thing about it- when I put my  super low impedance "jerry garcia tiger buffer" (just an opamp buffer) right in front of it I get drastically less noise.  Also the tone of the pedal completely changes- with the buffer on in front of the circuit it sounds MUCH brighter (like its supposed to sound brighter not unnaturally bright) I didnt notice how muffled it was until I tried the buffer in front of it- and I'm not talking about like yeh a buffer will make your signal brighter with long cable runs- without the buffer it sounds like there's 200ft of cable.

The noise isnt constant- when I turn down the mix I get less noise- when I turn down the volume I get less noise. 

I emailed the dude at pedal pcb a few times- and he said he had never had anyone having any issues with noise.  Wondering if anyone out there has had the same issue?

here's a link to schematic and pcb layout.
https://www.pedalpcb.com/docs/Octagon.pdf

I'm positive I have every part 100% correct as I built this about a year ago initially and have revisited it about 20 times and checked the layout at least 40x over.  This is the most thoroughly checked build I've ever done- if it didnt have an fv1 and a purchased pcb this would have been in the trash 10 months ago

so any input or ideas on the fv-1 and noise would be greatly appreciated!

by the way- thank you for that muff work.  Very cool that there are all these boards now where you can just swap values and preview all the muffs.

are the skreddy pink flesh and pig mine able to be added to that list?  I really like those iterations.  this current muff is a mayo clone- i'm digging it. Id be willing to plug in the values unless you already know they wont work with the layout

It depends how you do it. This is where Duncan's Tone Stack Calculator is your friend (http://www.duncanamps.com/tsc/). Basically you'll spend a long time in here trying different values until you get the result you want, but you'll also be able to visually see what your changes are doing to the curve.

If you use the AMZ method of adding a mids pot (http://www.muzique.com/lab/tone3.htm) it does mess with where the curve is and it moves dependent on where the pot is and the other components in the tone area. It will definitely need tweaking to maintain that base sound.

If you use our method (attached) it only moves the mids as it only blends in the additional cap. Much like if you put a switch in the same place (C10) with two other caps on it to add different values together to get the same effect. The key components you'll be changing are the resistors and the caps in the attached diagram, leave the pots alone.

If you don't fancy that, there's always the V2 of the muffs spreadsheet where I've already chosen some sensible values for a load of different muffs: http://stompage.juansolo.co.uk/muffbuild.html

cool yeh thats what I was looking for, i had looked at the duncan tone stack before.  But as it isnt mac compatible and my mac has something causing it to crash right now I wasnt really feeling like installing parallels and running it on there. 

So in your body pot version.  are you lowering the values due to the extra resistance of the 500k body pot?

i'm still feeling like making that one cap switchable is the best way to get a stock muff sound and boost the mids without having to deal with changing the og sound at all. 

wouldnt the body pot in there change the response some still?

I played around this a lot a few months ago. I tend to agree with you. I tried the pot with many different values and preferred a switch. Maybe it was just easier to select scoop, flat or boost.

do you really think it's just easier?  I think changing the resistance and putting that cap up to 22n really changes the muffs tone.  its not bad when you have the mids pot down (maybe its totally different there too) Maybe Ill build another one and do side by side... really wish I could get use the Duncan tone stack calculator!

the schematic im working on is not downloadable and is in google drive.  you can find the info im talking about at this link or use the madbean schematic and the info ive provided below

http://www.kitrae.net/music/Big_Muff_Mods_and_Tweaks_Page.html

scroll down to the mids mod

in mad beans rabbit hole- we're talking about c10 and r18
stok c10 is 4n7 and r18 is 33k.  the mids pot mod would be changing  c10 to 22n and replacing r18 with a 25k pot and a small resistor in series- like 1-5k

the switch mids mod would just be putting different caps on a switch.

nevermind i think i got it-

this was confusing with the voltage test thing on one side of the pickup i got opposite readings than the other... I didnt know it mattered which side of the pole you touched... or if it does or not- i just have to assume the north - is connected to the shield

I recently populated the board for one of pickdroppers baby muffs.  and I had to do some research to get the mids pot to work- you gottasub the 10n for a 22n cap at c10 and change a resistor to like 2k.

Anyways- I have built a few muffs recently with this mids control, but I seem to remember liking all the skreddy vero clones I built that just put 3 caps on a 3 way dpdt toggle switch- 4n7 for stock scooped mids, another 4n7 in parallel with first for flat mids, and a 10n for 14n7 and boosted mids.  You leave all the other resistors the same. 

I feel like something gets lost with the variable resistor controlling the mids. 

Is there anything to this?  Or any knowledge as to how they would sound different or if that would change the eq curve? 

I tried going to the tone stack calculator but I have a mac and its windows only.

Just trying to figure out if its all in my head and I'm just not getting the pot in the right spots to get the good boosted mids sounds!  thanks a bunch guys!

I thought you could still get all the standard strat tones as long as you dont use the bass cut?  seems like a pretty typical low pass filter on the 250k part. 

Anyone have any ideas on this?  Its hard to find the 1mC pot that the G&L PTB calls for... all I can find are the alphas i have stashed for pedal builds.  Maybe I'll just use one of those for the bass cut and one of the CTS mini pots for the treble cut- and do a 4 knob strat.

I need to replace the tone control in my strat- I have a master tone as the other two slots are taken by vol control and a 6 way rotary switch that gives me a ton of pickup combinations (super useful)

I was thinking I'd like to replace it with a TBX control.  as i investigated i found the G&L PTB (passive treble bass control) that is designed around two pots so you can cut treble and bass at the same time- that seemed better.

I started looking for conentric stacked potentiometers.  But there really arent many made. 

The PTB officially calls for 1MC pot for the hi pass (bass cut) and a 500kA for the low pass (treble cut).  I'm sure with my single coil and p90 bridge strat I can get away with 250kA for the treble cut.  But I'm worried about this 1MC bass cut pot

The only concentric pots I can find are....
250kA/500kA
500kA/500kA
100k(?)/1M(?) - these are made for danelectros (they must spend some money on those 2 pickup reissues electroncis- they have 2 concentric pots (and the knobs) on each one- doesnt even work very well.

Anyways.  Do you guys think the audio taper will be okay for the bass cut pot with 500k?  should I go for the 100k/1M...

OR

Is this gonna be jacked up and I should just give in to the standard fender TBX?  (you can only do either treble or bass cut- cant use both at the same time)

Any input would be greatly appreciated before I start having to experiemnt- I hate taking off a strat pickguard and putting strings back on- such a PITA- id probably just say fuck it and put in a regular tone pot heh

Thanks!