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I think they may be targeting this at studio and synth guys as much as guitar heads.

Tape emulation seems to be all the rage at the moment for plugins.

Yeah I think so too.
It would be an interesting tool on drums in a studio.

That was fast. This must be it then.
Thanks for your fast replies and help.

Hi all.

I am about to make a Tayda order for the Moodring parts + some bibs and bobs.

The problem is they don' t have the LM78L05. Or that is they do, it´s just an smd ic. Guess that wont work.

Are there any other that will get the train in the station... As you say   

Any help appreciated.

EDIT:
There are this little bugga:
http://www.taydaelectronics.com/l78l05acz-l78l05-78l05-5-volts-100ma-voltage-regulator-ic.html

This is the same as in the tenebrion. Is this it?

I have build the cherry bomb and ditched it too. I got the irritating splatter note decay, tried with different transistors to compensate but with no luck. I build one from tag boards and it is absolutely amazing. Great tones from mild overdrive to fuzz. I have no noticeable bass issues though. I think it is a really underestimated pedal. So diverse and just plain great sounding. I ended up with two bc184s and one bc108 in it.

This forum is a massive resource in the community, I sure learned a lot on here. Welcome :-)

Awesomesauce:-)

+1 on the demo. Been checking youtube regularly since that monday.

Thanks for your replys. I Will wait for a response over at gc.

I all. I posted this at the GC forum, but no response, so now I give the beaners a go

I jumped on the Chimaera when i heard that it was going to be discontinued, dispite of having build to Kingslayer and the Sunking II. I wanted to try out the findings over at BYOC. Cant get enough of dirt pedals

There has been a couple of things with this build:
First the gain pot didn' t work properly. There were clean signal but when I turn up the gain it cuts the signal. I have checked the pot and swapped C7 and C8. Both ways actually. I checked the diodes and couldn' t get a reading with my DMM(When someone writes DMM I always read Deluxe Memory Man :lol: ). So I unsoldered the diodes and put sockets instead. That did not solve the problem, the diodes did work I have no idea why I couldn' t get a reading.

Now theres no sound, only motor boating/oscillation. I reflowed over some of the solder joints and noticed there seems to be a tracelift around the diodes. I don' t feel like I have used eccesive heat in removing the diodes, But apparantly enough.

Are there any way I can make the connection flow again after the lifted trace?

The board looks pretty scuffed up as I have been working on it a lot, quite abit more than usual, but I have attached some pics.

Thanks in advance

It was a faulty soft switch. I installed a new one and I could turn on the higher frequencies.
Nice:-)


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 This guy is really something
http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=9DbUPjEbIvA

I haven't hardwired the soft switch, but it doesn't have a big difference on the sound. So perhaps I need to go over that one again...

But it couple be the FETs. There ones in the old are from mammoth and the 2013 ones are from small Bear. Could also just be different biased FETs.

But thanks for your reply.

~ Be first to reply ~


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"I'm pretty sure there's a lot more to life than being really, really, ridiculously good looking. And I plan on finding out what that is."


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Hi all.

I have build the previous fatpants (just called fatpants:-)) and the fatpants 2013.

When i a/b them I notice that on the older one there are more high end harmonic content compared to the new one. And i really liked that on the older version. Its not like the 2013 one are dull and muffled, its just messing that 10% the first one have.

So my question is, which values are to be tweaked to regain some of the higher frequencies on the newer version?

Thanks in advance.