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Just bought this on Ebay.Looking for suggestings for the transistors.

What should C4 be. On the BOM for the Moodring C4 is a Electrolytic capacitor (1uf) but on the board it's just a normal cap.
Schematic says it should be Electrolytic capacitor 1uf,if that's correct where does the + leg go.

Can you mod a Dunlop Wah board for bass?

Of course: http://www.electrosmash.com/crybaby-gcb-95
Mods are in section 8.

I had seen that before but forgot about it,so thanks for the link 

Can you mod a Dunlop Wah board for bass?

i don't know, but if you want you can order some little pcb's for it at osh pretty cheap i think.  check out ian's flipper switch https://oshpark.com/profiles/irmcdermott

in fact, i think i have 3 of them here i've never used.  i can throw one at ya free of charge if you're in the usa.

Thanks for the offer,didn't know you got pcb's for that.Found a supplier in the U.K.

Been asked to built 2 pedals in a box with a toggle switch to change the order of the pedal,so I'm looking for a diagram showing how to wire this up.I've found this http://s94.photobucket.com/user/boogietube/media/order_switcher_best.gif.html Can anyone verify this as working?

When looking at the build document.....

Jumper the MIDDLE LEFT hole to the BOTTOM LEFT hole. Also....

Jumper the MIDDLE RIGHT hole to the BOTTOM RIGHT hole.

This is when looking at the DPDT switch hole pattern on Page 1 of the build doc.

EDIT: Keep in mind that a lot of the set up and alignment needs to be done in the Filter mode.

So would it be better to leave the switch in until the board is biased,then remove it ?

Do you just want the Flanger?

If so, then you could just omit the switch and hard wire the switch pads on the PCB to mimic the connections made while in Flanger mode. Pretty simple actually... if that is what you are wanting 

Yes,Flange mode only.

How do you wire up the current lover without the DPDT filter ?

  Thanks.Used to have that site bookmarked but it somehow got deleted.

Anyone know where to get Point to Point / Tagboard layouts,not vero.

It's an optocoupler, H11F1.

http://pdf.datasheetcatalog.com/datasheet/fairchild/H11F1.pdf

Mmmm...Read that,still not sure what they do

Yep. One thing I asked Josh for when he was designing the optotrons was an extra set of power pads for this very reason. So power comes from jack to first Optotron then runs from the second set of pads to the next and so on. It's the white and black wire on the photo. The single black wire is the signal wire between the optotrons.



At this point in the wiring, all the switching and jacks are in and it's bypassable. I test at this point to make sure everything is working and bypassing/lighting up as it should. All that you need to add after this is one effect at a time.

I mount on solid core wiring most of the time. Some of the raised ones are using the thicker amp ground style wire to make them much more sturdy. Helps with the tiering.

FWIW I'd use this method if I was using 3DPT. But in all honesty, the Optotrons are a much, much better option when it comes to building multis. Not just for reliability and lack of poppage. Just for the sheer neatness it allows for wiring. In a multi you really don't want wires everywhere.

What does the chip do on the optotrons?

Excellent.Think i'll go for that.As you say you don't want wires all over the place.

I even did a tutorial thing: http://juansolo.co.uk/stompage/multibuild.html

This will be a big help 
How did you wire up the power and the in & out jacks.I can see the cables coming from them & going to the footswitch boards but not how they are wired.Are they then "daisy chained)?