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Nice! I've got one of those enclosures and it does look good. Those type of sockets are a must if you want to use a 1590B. Glad you liked the PCB

Look here: http://turretboard.knucklehead.dk Its a mixture of vero and tagboard. Some of the older posts are mainly tagboard.

Nice build I like the bezels too. The Lumberg sockets are probably a must if you're using a 1590B. It is a tight fit!
Glad you liked the PCB.

Don't worry too much about the names! As shrtyska9 says any matched set will work. Russian transistors are cheap and work really well. Tell us were you are.

I haven't built the Toecutter but I can help with the pinout. From the top: Base, Collector and Emitter. I can't read Cyrillic but I think I'm right.

I believe the transistor case is grounded. So make sure that they're not touching anything.

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Before I bought a laser printer I used to take the decals to work and print in monochrome. It was a Ricoh printer and was fantastic. They changed it and the new one's not as good.

I used several printing shops (I'm in the UK) withour much success. Their printers are set up for different types of paper and I ruined quite a few decals. Some places didn't want to risk it.

I bought a Samsung colour Laser printer and so far so good. The prices on these things are getting cheaper by the day!


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SMT is the work of the devil.

Some people get a masochistic pleasure out of doing it!  I've only tried it once and kind of enjoyed it. I can see myself going over to the dark side!

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Like muddyfox says it's purely a marketing ploy. The higher numbers usually indicate PMPO which is the maximum total power the speakers can handle. It really is a meaningless number. Always look for the RMS number when buying amps or speakers.

Cheap computer PSU's are also sold using the higher peak wattage number instead of continuous power. Lots of people get caught out and wonder why their PC's don't work properly!

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Have a search through CPC/Farnell, RS Components and Conrad.

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Why don't you leave it in its enclosure and use a true bypass switcher? This would have effect in/out sockets where you plug the preamp and signal in/out.

Like this: http://www.beavisaudio.com/techpages/PedalHacker/LooperNoLED_sml.gif

It's another box but saves you doing the rehouse.
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Nice build  Got to get myself a pink enclosure!

Good demo too. I think you nailed the sound on that track.

I'm so glad that you liked the PCB and that it helped you achieve the 'sound' that you were after. It certainly is a unique fuzz. Glitchy - almost synthy - but quite versatile.

And don't worry, build accidents do happen. I managed to destroy one of the switches whilst tightening the nut 

As far as I can tell it doesn't take into account ge transistor leakage. Although the gt108v's that I have test quite close to the RG Keen method but I think its because they have very low leakage.

It's still very useful and much quicker to use than a standard multi meter when testing components.

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I think jimi is right. You'll need to use a cable with a slim line 3.5mm jack. Like this: http://images.esellerpro.com/2485/I/573/6/2TTS-01WHTa.jpg.

Regular ones don't tend to go in properly on some tablets and mobile phones.

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I get the same type of sound. It happens as the note(s) decay. There's a few discussions on the Colorsound Overdriver describing the same issue.

I think the conclusion was that this effect does that normally. I could be wrong though! Anyone else has/built one of these?

I tend to use it for chunky/dirty rhythm as opposed to lead, so not too bothered.

If your problem is more severe then follow wgc's advice as a start.

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I use the Pedal Power 2 plus. I don't use digital effects so don't need the power. I use the two high current outputs to daisy chain my tuner, wah, switch and low current fuzzes and distortion. The other outputs I use for more noise sensitive effects like phasers, tremolos and chorus. These are the ones that tend not to play nicely with switched mode power supplies. It's an expensive psu but I don't regret buying it.

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