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Oh, ok... that makes sense. I just looked it up on google, thats why I thought it was that (22vdc at 1.1a).

Sorry!

Maybe its just something weird w/ that xfmr?

Like you said...pedals maybe pulling to much current when there all on or something, and the xfmr can't handle it...IDK, good luck!

Isn't the power consumption of the blackstar ht dual, 22vdc at 1.1amps? If so, it doesn't have the proper output voltage/current.

Sweet build man! Great job overall... but specifically, I love the look (artwork/paint), neat wiring, the metallic knobs, and the use of perfboard for the circuit. Very nice!

Dude Brian, this is great! Mutron iii is epic... awesome job man.

Cheers!

It would be awesome if we could come up w/ a project for something like this: http://jjs.at/electronic/class_a_subminiature.html#construction

It's a mini tube head that fits into a 1590b! (similar to the zvex nano head, i guess).

I would love to build this as a practice amp and it would be great for recording or whatever... I just wouldn't know where to start w/ it having tubes, the weird power supply, ect. (I have no expericence w/ tube amp stuff )

No, problem man... Always glad to help.

If the wah your building is based on the crybaby or vox wah (madbeans weener wah), you can increase output by reducing the input resistors value... I use a 47k resistor there for a boosted output volume.

Cheers!

 Great! glad to help you out man... Weve all been there at some point, sometimes it just takes a proper explanation.

Let us know if you have any other problems.

Heres a little diagram you can use for the basic wiring of a pedal:

It's Ok, just take a deep breathe and follow me closely...

Based on your last post and the way you described your wiring, Ive found a few things that are probably causing your pedal not to work.

Ok first thing: you mentioned you were using a metal DC jack. You can't use a metal DC jack... w/ it mounted in the enclosure, your effectively shorting out the pedal,  + to -. If you must use a metal DC jack, you need to isolate the DC jack from the enclosure. Just find a way to have the DC jack's metal body, not be directly touching the enclosure (ie, wrap it in electrical tape, use rubber gromet, ect.)

This is why we use those round insulated plastic dc jacks in effects pedals. They work great, are pretty durable, and are fairly inexpensive and they isolate the 9v power from the enclosure... only thing is, you kind of have to order them online because local radioshacks or similar stores don't carry them.

Ok, so once you get that sorted out heres the next step:

wire the dc jacks CENTER LUG (gnd lug) to your star ground, at the input jacks SLEEVE LUG (inside lug) or at whatever point all your other grounds are all meeting.

now wire the +9v wire coming from your wah's circuit board to your DC jacks other, OUTSIDE LUG (+9v lug).

Now thats that for the DC jack. If you were to want to use a battery, the + (red wire) of the battery snap would go to a third lug on the DC jack (which I'm assuming you don't have becuase the metal DC jack your using only has two lugs right?) and the - (black wire) would go to the stereo input jacks RING lug (middle lug).

Anyway, if your not using a battery snap... just disregard that last sentence and don't use the third RING LUG (middle lug) on the Stereo input jack.

Ok so now your input and output jacks should be wired like this:

Input Jack - SLEEVE LUG (inside lug) on input jack should be your ground point. TIP LUG (far outside lug) on input jack should be wired to it's corresponding lug on your bypass (3pdt) switch.

Output Jack - SLEEVE LUG (inside lug) on ouput jack should be left open since it's being grounded to the enclosure. TIP LUG (far outside lug) should be wired to it's corresponding lug on your bypass (3pdt) switch.

Let me know if you have any other questions or if your confused about any of this.

Your DC jacks 9v lug (outside lug) should only be wired to 9v on the circuit board. The center pin on the DC jack should be wired to all your other grounds (which is usually at the sleeve of the input jack)

no, the center pin on the back of the 9v adapter jack is the ground lug and should be wired to all the other grounds, and the longer one of the two other lugs (outside one), goes to 9v on the board.

like this:

Hey, no problem man... glad I could help!

If you have a multi-meter you could post some voltages, this would help greatly to see whats going on.

If your not sure how to test voltages...

Just set your meter to measure voltage (usually indicated by a DC or DCV symbol) and set it to the closest range to 9v (on mine it's 20v). Plug power into the circuit via adapter or battery, and put the red probe onto a leg of a transistor and the black probe to anything connected to ground on the board (or anything grounded offboard for that matter).

Do this for each leg of both transistors and write down the results, and while your at it, check to make sure your getting 9v to the "9v" pad on the board. (BTW, not trying to question your skills/ability, just saying in-case youv'e never been informed on how to test using a meter, because I had this problem for a while when I was starting out, and no one would be specific enough on exactly how to use the meter, but I do apologize if you already knew all of this).

Anyway, try that out and post your results.

Jacob,

This build is awesome! Looks like a perfect DMM build to me... The jacks look fine to me, as well.

Incredible build Jacob.

have you re-biased it since you switched the caps around the right way?

Have you tried pnp silicon's (2n3906, 2n2907,) in place of the germaniums? This will help rule out the transistors as your problem. They sell them (2n3906) at radioshack if you don't have any, and you don't feel like waiting to have them shipped to you.

Not sure what the cause was in your situation but for future refrence, theres a few other ways to get rid of circuit "pops" when engaging/disengaging effects.

Ive had good success in the past w/ the following methods to cure circuit "pops" (asside from the more well known methods)

- a 100k "pulldown" resistor from output to gnd will eliminate pop, in most circuits (assuming the circuit doesn't already have this pulldown resistor integrated into the circuit). To accomplish this, I ususally just solder the 100k resistor between the output jacks "tip" lug and "sleeve" (ground) lug.

-swap the input capacitor w/ a new/different one... the input capacitor can be the culprit for "pops" if it is faulty/bad.

- make sure nothing is touching against something where it is not supposed to (ie, circuit board touching metal casing on potentiometers), and make sure everything is grounded properly.

W/ those few tips, I'll bet you can eliminate pops 90% of the time. In some cases you just have to live w/ it though, if your using a mechanical switch (non-relay type switching), to bypass the circuit.