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Hello friends,

I was asked by a friend to take a look at his Landgraff wah pedal. He told me that when it was engaged there was a significant volume loss. I did some initial research and it was suggested that it could be the footswitch so I replaced it. Afterwards the pedal worked great. However after about a few minutes of playing the volume would gradually reduce. Not sure what else to check. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Let me know if pictures are needed and I can post some

Roctopus

Hi friends,

So I tried a few more things such as adding a 2M resistor across the tip and sleeve of every jack. I also removed the LED's from the circuit but I'm still getting noise. I was told that it could be a grounding issue so I have attached a wiring diagram since I couldn't get a detailed enough picture. Let me know if you all have any other ideas

So I contacted with the guys at Mammoth and they were quick to respond with some helpful information. Like many have suspected there is indeed a "mute" function to the board. They sent me info on a way to remove this feature. Once I did what they suggest the latency I had been experiencing was complacently gone I am however still experiencing some slight "popping" especially when I engage the channels where my delay and reverb are patched. I imagine there's an issue with my ground connections or possibly my LED (w/mod). I'm going to check that again before removing the LED's or adding additional pull-down resistors.

I can't remember off the top of my head but I'll give that a shot before I start removing the LED's and let y'all know.

Even using a mute-function can cause a switching noise. It will not be a loud pop but still a clicking or switching noise when you are switching while you have signal.

This is just because switching a live signal is only noiseless if the signal is switched while it crosses zero.

Does the switch cause noise when you have muted your input/ guitar ?

Ok I'll try removing the LED's and see if the popping persists and report back

The ultra-brief signal loss is probably the mute function (I believe that switch has one).  I guess it isn't long enough to catch the pop.

Agreed. I traced this circuit out and while the idea is solid, i never got it to work 100% on a breadboard or in PCB format. The 2n7000s mute the signal however there is still potential for popping. Id try to remove the led and see if that helps as the sudden rush of current can cause pops.

Hey Brian! I tried unplugging the DC jack like you suggested but it still pops. It's being powered by a Voodoo Lab Pedal Power 2 Plus. I've also be experiencing a ultra-brief, but noticeable, signal loss between when I engage a foot switch and when it actually comes on. Not sure if that explains or helps anything to know that but figured I would share.

I have one of those and I did find from time to time a pop would come in (this was testing on the breadboard, I have not put it in a pedal yet). But, cycling the power fixed it up proper. Does it go away if you unplug your dc jack and then plug it back in after a few seconds? Also, how are you powering it...does it daisy chain off anything else?

It's "Black Sparkle" paint. You can check it out at this site

http://www.mammothelectronics.com/4S1032L-p/500-1006.htm

Cool build!  What box is that?  Giving me some ideas...

Thank you sir! I went with the click-less because I didn't want the latching (click) sound or pop you normally get with 3PDT switches. However I have been experiencing some popping that I'm trying to get resolved. Here is the link to that thread

http://www.madbeanpedals.com/forum/index.php?topic=17975.msg172664#msg172664

Looks fantastic Roctopus
never tried a looper but often thought about it
i like the enclosure and the LEDs

one questions, these relays are quite expensive (1x 20$), why didnt you use classic 3PDT switches (non-momentary) ?

greetz Luki

Thanks man! Sorry for the late response but here is a guts shot of the Holy Grail in the 1590B enclosure. I had to desolder the pot and upgraded the toggle switch, LED, as well as the DC power supply. You'll also notice I had to extend some wires to make it work for me but it is possible

Looks awesome. Great job on the rehouse. I would love to see a gut shot also. I have repaired a few Holy Grails and I can't picture it in a 1590B and would love to see how you did it.

Cody

The old enclosure is just sitting in my office collecting dust

Very nice! Good match on that blue from the graphics. What's going on with that empty EHX enclosure now?

Coming soon.....

Sweet. Gut shot?


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Hey gang,

So I just posted a build pic of a 5 channel "click-less" true bypass relay looper. I used the relay kit from Mammoth Electronics http://www.mammothelectronics.com/Click-Less-True-Bypass-Relay-Module-Kit-p/035-cltba.htm
I also added a trim pot to each circuit to be able to adjust the LED brightness.

Now the issue I'm having is that I'm still getting a "pop" when the foot switch is engaged. Especially on the fifth/last channel. My understanding was that the "click-less" switch was intended to avoid this very scenario. Has anyone else experienced this problem? Is there a proven remedy? I'm looking forward to the communities help on this one.





Thanks!
The Roctopus

Hello my friends! It's been a while since my last post but here is another looper pedal I built. This one is a 5 channel "click-less" true bypass looper. I used the click-less relay switch kit from Mammoth Electronics. I also added a trim pot to the each foot switch circuit to control the LED brightness.

http://www.mammothelectronics.com/Click-Less-True-Bypass-Relay-Module-Kit-p/035-cltba.htm

Cats in Space!!!! So rad

Killer! Absolutely killer! Love the board