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Messages - Strassercaster

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Open Discussion / Re: Is the golden age over?
« on: June 19, 2019, 09:44:25 PM »
10 years ago everyone was saying pedals are on the way out. then the boutique business exploded. It probably you /. I got into building 6 years ago I have made and sold a total of 270 pedals. last year I got burnt out . I only made 10 pedals the whole year and  turned down work . I am back into it now. I have a couple designs that are selling well. Its as much about the graphics these days as the tones. Joyo can clone the classics for 40 bucks or less and they are just as good in reality . its just a phase for you. there are some great new pedals to make. the pussy melter the new revv pedals.

 i agree most stuff is a clone of a classic but there are still new designs coming out. playing more guitar is always a good idea. I have let my chops rust the last 6 years using the guitar time to make and sell pedals. take a break . I also wish i had time to waste breadboarding. i would love to make the first half od a shredmaster into the second half of a few dif  pedals just to experiment. Time flys ...part of this obsession with building pedals is chasing the tone. if you found the tone then play. I found several tones i could live with. I really love the pussy melter and the zendrive. i still have my old board with a boss SD1 sometimes i use it and im contenet that was my tone for 20 years

Build Reports / Re: May the force be with the X wing fighter
« on: June 19, 2019, 09:23:43 PM »
fantastic build sir!!! i love all things star wars and the X wing is the coolest of all the ships ! Whetre did you get that killer switch and ciruit board from? Id love to put that on a few of my builds. I assume its silent and true bypass? is it opto based? Very impressive graphics. You did a great jobh. Is it photo sticker paper or a waterslide decal? you are an ace builder !

if the sunking has a low battery it will whine I thought i fried something once and it was a low battery ha ha.. If you used a 1044 not 1044max it could whine if you used a 7660cpaz instead of a 7660scpaz thats probably the problem i went through all this last year with the sunking and a mercury box i built. I highly reccomend using the 7660Scpaz the ones without the s have a different  clock frequency and thats what causes the whistling.Use a 1054lt,7660Scpaz or a 1044 maxx all other variants  like 1044(nonmax)
will whine more than likely. what exactly did you use? It is possiblle you got a bad chip or damaged the one your using they are vulnerable to shocks and mishaps. You can get 10 7660scpaz on aliexpress for less than 2 dollars free shipping. I have about 30 of these if you want ill send you free to help.

I went with the small bear ones top of the line 375 a piece and they are better than the nsl7532 imho much better. Deeper lush phasing

Tech Help - Projects Page / Re: Weener Wah II inductor question
« on: May 22, 2015, 05:06:14 PM »
Definitely the two
Pins I highly
Recommend a joe Gavin tone tank or a whipple both are great and worth the money

So how is it coming along any luck?

You can't just use the cap values straight from the Phase 90. You need to grab a calculator and figure out he cutoff frequencies produced by the caps in each circuit. The impedance of each stage between the two circuits is different.
Thanks midway fair. I checked out the 1776 website very nice.i know what your saying but I have know idea where to start . I am on my 20th build in three months learning as I go. It's paint by numbers mostly . I did pinball repair and am decent at troubleshooting but design and engineering not at all. I have done several vero layouts from scratch simple stuff like range masters .there the tesla way and the Edison way unfortunately I'll have to do it the Edison way unless you want to throw me a bone ha ha. I really love the multiplex echo just listened to some you tube demos. You and Brian are light years ahead me I'm a noob with some skill tops.i am going to get another harbinger one board and socket the four caps and trial and error it I guess. I'll probably socket the accompanied resistors as well just in case . I'll build it right and the. Start swapping . This is the  most complex build I have done I have been doing germanium and op amp overdrive  mostly .thanks

honestly i dont think standing them up made a difference. it was bringing the brightness down i. retrospec im pretty sure. just go with what you have for now you should be able to fet close if not all the way i said the darker the bulb the higher the resistence and deeper the phasing from what i have learned. the 7371 is the one i am using and its great.

Tech Help - Projects Page / Re: Harbinger One - led not working
« on: May 12, 2015, 03:50:49 PM »
oh the mpsa 13 is worth changing. you will have to dim the bulb because it is brighter and faster with it. post your address ill mail you one😄

Tech Help - Projects Page / Re: Harbinger one lamp issue
« on: May 12, 2015, 03:47:53 PM »
good luck. if you socketed a few components maybe they got hit and started making contact. check for connections. if it happens again check q13

thanks gentleman. luks999 i am using both leds one for on/off and the other to pulse but it is  dark from 8 oclock to 12 0clock

 i started with the ldrs flat on the board and used a copper end cap but lined it with shinny aluminium tape. hard to describe how much better it sounds but it does. i now have the standing and facing the bulb. the bulb is very weak . this probably made more of a difference than the ldrs but it all works together. i discovered the less bright light upped the resistence  making the effect sound less like a pulsing vibrato and more phasey chewy univibe sounding. ill. do a sound clip and post it here for you in the next few days . i work 13 hour days and its hard to do it late at night because we have a 1 year old baby. i might get off early today if i do ill make you one i did post a clip of madbeans mojovibe bulb bias video. the hi low dark 200m ldrs covered sounded better than the uncovered i think even though they say they dont i disagree becasue the cover blocks more light making them higher in resistence . i could be wrong but it sounds just a tad better. of course i could have just dimmed the light even more i guess ha ha. i listend to your video sounded just like mine before i dimmed that light way back. now mine sounds better and chewyier than the dunlop UV-1 and thats no chump i thought it was as good as the mojo vibe an even match both are fantastic univibes as isnthe harbinger it should ge its an exact copy of the real deal. Brian (MR Madbean)does great work !

hey mike i just watched your two clips on the you. tube. I also used the sa13 for more speed. however in my opinion your bulb is way way to bright. mine is less than half that bright sounds amazing and looked great on an oscilloscope. my electrical engineer amp builder friend checked it before even hearing it. afterchecking it he said this should sound really good and it does. you should cut that brightness down so that even at its  rightest the filament is a yellow oragne not blinding white. correct me if i am wrong madbeaners but i fou d this sounds best when you keep the light down. when the light is low the ldrs have more resistence which adds to the depth imho. try that also when the light is bright like yours which is how. i started as well. the throb is too much . its a fine line i know but ill try to. make a video of mine for you. i jsed the ldrs with the metal case they say it doesnt affect the sound but it does keep them surrounded and with the pairing i did they all had higher resistence. check out MR madbean himself studying the MoJO vibe bulb bias here i found this and it was what i based my bulb bias after. bias it clean and have a gain pedal Handy it will suprise you how it sounds a lot deeper and chewier with some gain

watch this see how dim this bulb is. after watching this i zeroed in on it

thanks luke . I checked out a phase 90 they use 50n caps for all four stages. Its just an idea im toying with at this point but could be fun and different

Tech Help - Projects Page / harbinger one built. as just a phaser?
« on: May 12, 2015, 11:58:30 AM »
looking at the harbinger one schematic you have the 4 different cap sizes to give it its warble. i love this build. I was wondering if i could build it into a phaser? if so the four caps c7-15n c10-220n c14-470pf and c17-4n7 are what give it its univibe characteistics correct? i would need to match all four off theses? or just the first three ? i guess if i did the first three and kept the fourth in the vibrato section different i could have a little flexibiliy via the switch correct?

this just sounds so good as a univibe i am wondering if we reveresed modded it the way they fo the phase 90 to be univibe how it would sound. What value would be best to try first ect.  just a thought.i love the harbinger one as it is and im not modding mine but if i build another it could be worth it . anyone tried thsi little experiment yet?

thanks luks. i will live with it on this one. i tested mine against a mojo vibe and a dunlop uv1 it won against the uv1 . it lost against the mojovibe before i upgraded the ldrs to the most expensive that small bear had.i thinks its identical to the mojo vibe now. on q13 i used the darlington mpsa13 and i got more speed of course brightness as well. Its just a tad slower than the others now but my firend put it on an oscilloscope and it was perfection, i am leaving this one as is. i do have plenty of parts to build a second one though and may do that after i get a few others checked off of the list. you guys rock thank you

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