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Prototype Peacock PCB's are in production!

HOT DIGGITY DAMN!

Is the SpaceBomb algorithm the same as the SpaceDash algo on the following webpage?

https://mstratman.github.io/fv1-programs/

Great builds, as per usual.

Convex Fish is my favourite art from this selection, however the RUST BUCKET!


What hypothesis, if any, do you have as to why it was grounding out in the 1590BB?

Your pain is my gain, thank you for posting.

I've got the board, DULY NOTED re POTS etc.
Didn't realise the board's discontinued, and didn't realise long-legged pots are required. 
I think the footswitches will suffice in holding the board in place, I can just use lugged pots with cap-lead clippings or offboard wiring...

For anyone interested in this thing, it's basically a Way Huge Camel Toe, but the 808 side is a ROG UBE-Screamer minus the buffer and clean signal (not enough inverters left over after using some up for the Llama).

So if you build a Llama and an Ube-screamer separately then chuck'm in the same box, you've got it AND you'd have the clean blend (great for bass, still good for guitar).

I need to buy time, I've got too many projects in the build queue — inkluding klones.

...
I made a pretty dumb mistake and hooked the 9V+ lede to the LED and the LED lede to the + tab on the DC jack. Basically, flipped where the 9V+ and LED ledes were supposed to go here (http://tagboardeffects.blogspot.com/2015/12/lovetone-big-cheese.html). I guess that could have fried the transistors and IC?
...

That won't have fried the transistors & IC. If your trace-cuts are correct all you did was send the power to the IC etc through the CLR, a reduction in voltage is all — what's intentionally done on some pedals and called "Sag" or "Starve" or "Stab" (latter as in stability).

The LED was still getting reduced voltage through the CLR as well, so it didn't pop — LEDs aren't fussy about which side of the equation you limit the juice, but you do have to limit it somewhere along the line. The LED would've popped if you'd fed it a full 9v, though.

Maybe try going through the build beginning to end again; pretend you're starting from scratch and check each component is the correct value as you "place it", and oriented correctly as well. As you go, check for cold solder-joints and re-flow anything suspect.

After that, do the same for each wire while comparing it to the schematic.


It may help to leave it for a few days, re-approach with a "fresh" set of eyes. Numerous times I've done so and saw a mistake that previously while in the moment I kept not-seeing every time I looked over the build.

Nothing too fancy...

Signal in > split

Ch A = dry/clean, maybe throw the LFP on it as well, space permitting.

Ch B = Flunkee

Ch A & B blended back together > signal out.

What I'm having a tough time deciding now is where to cut off the frequency of the Clean-blend LPF. Will it sound weird if I put it way down low at 400Hz? ie will it sound like two different parts? Will a cutoff at 1600Hz sound more natural since it's closer to full range?

I know I should breadboard it, but a lot of my stuff is packed away for moving. I'll get back to trying stuff on breadboard after the move. Meanwhile, I'm still trying to build a few more pedals before EVERYTHING gets shipped overseas. 

Thanks again Zerro, that's a lot of great food for thought for me.

Here's the range I've been looking at for the clean-blend's LPF:

resistor cap & Hertz followed by the Hz of the nearest note
2k2 + 47n = 1540Hz       1567.9   G6
2k2 + 56n   = 1292.5Hz      1244.5   Eb6 / 1318.5 E6
2k2 + 68n   = 1064.4Hz      1046.5   C6   
2k2 + 82n   = 882.7Hz         880    A5
2k2 + 100n= 723.8Hz        739.9   F#5/Gb5

2k + 47n    = 1694Hz!      1661.2   G#6/Ab6
2k + 56n   = 1421.7Hz      1396.9   F6/1479.9 F#6/Gb6
2k + 68n   = 1170.9Hz      1174.6   D6   
2k + 82n   = 970.9Hz         987.7   B5
2k + 100n   = 796.2Hz        783.9   G5

I've been calculating the above using Orman's online calc:
http://www.muzique.com/schem/filter.htm

The first one above (2k2 + 47n) is in Fuzzdog's Bass Looper, so I played around with  values in the same ballpark.


Unfortunately, I won't have space for an op-amp blender, I'm going with a basic JFET transistor split'n'blend. The Flunkee is already a tight fit in a 1590A.

Pots should be wired up as per the schematic. This isn't a the control cavity of a guitar, you don't solder the backs of pots together here. If anything you cover the backs of pots with non-conductive material to keep them from shorting out the board. Speaking of which...

Yes, you can short the board but it's fairly easy to prevent this with standoffs, some non-conductive material between the board and the enclosure and other components within it.

I use pizza-box "tables" with the legs cut off and hot-glue them to the enclosure if the board is free-floating — but I prefer board-mounted switches and pots to prevent movement/free-floating.


As for crackle... Zvex said "Crackle Ok" therefore it must be so...

... I've been wearing these same two pairs of Levis cargo shorts since we started lockdown last March.

That's disgusting. 

At least wear one pair at a time so one of them can be in the wash at any one time.
Alternate, for the love of hygiene and all that is decent man!



I wore swim trunks yesterday, had some work to do around the house and it's been hyper-hot and humid here.

The only thing that beats all three options AND trousers is a versatile and very airy for the under-hairy KILT™!

Appropriate for any occasion from carpentry on the job site to fun in the sun to somber formal attire at a wake to wake-boarding to bored at office board meetings, nothing fits and breathes like a KILT™!

Get your KILT™! today! Enjoy every waking moment with KILT™! Get the whole nine-yards, with KILT™! Manly yes! But some women like to wear them too, KILT™! With 100s of tartans to choose from, every day's a ceilidh for your whole family when they're all wearing a KILT™!


Batteries and cabers not included, hammer-throw and sporran optional for some occasions. In the inevitable event of haggis-gone-wrong, wash in cold water & rinse only in single-malt Scotch, then air dry with bagpipes. Some settling may occur during shifting and handling.

Check out Dead Astronaut's delays, some very cool multi-PT2399 stuff goin...

I think the black becomes part of the design, a punctuation of the black already within the graphic.

The white neither adds nor detracts from the design, it's neutral, IMO.


I think both look great, but not mixed together — either all white or all black.

Mmmmmaybe white on the upper knobs and black on the lower or vice-versa, but splitting black and white to left and right doesn't seem to inspire as much.


All in all a great set of Pachyderm pedals.


Might tackle these two circuits once my Flunkee is finished.

Buffers don't invert anything, nor the 13700s. But why you care for this?

F0 for knee of LPF is defined by C7 and C8. You may change both values, but both must have the same value. For bass try 22nF for example.

For clear sound blend you can see this example from You You pedal. It makes almost the same thing but by pedal pot. Look at the MIX output. That's my tip.

Thanks Zerro.

Whether the 13700 inverts phase or not matters to me because I don't want to have phase-cancellation with the planned clean blend. Some people say the 13700 inverts phase, some people say it doesn't. My understanding of the 13700's datasheet is rudimentary at best, hence this thread.

I have already increased C7 & C8 caps; what I'm asking for is a recommended LPF corner-frequency just for the clean blend, one that would complement bass guitar.

Thanks for your reply and many thanks for the You You schematic, I've not seen that one before!

Cheers,
FF

I've looked online and found that the FX25 inverts, but that's bandpass...


When the Flunkee's in LowPass mode is it still inverting the signal?
Looking at the schematic, the signal-path enters each op-amp on the non-inverting pin, so I can only guess it inverts on the 13700's darlington buffers. I tried to do my homework before posting here, even scoured the 13700 datasheet, but feel I've missed something.

Also...
I'd like to add a clean blend to mine.
If you've any suggestions on a good corner frequency for an LPF on the clean signal (for bass guitar usage), feel free to hit me up with wherever you think it Hertz best.


Mm Goi Sai,
FF

FOOG ME, A CLUSTER FLUX!


Many thanks for the schemos!