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schematics for every project can be viewed directly from the Projects Page.

Good idea, surprising how many times a quick glance at just the schematic is needed.

I agree with Alan, I've built a few Big Muffs for myself. It also seems to be the most common build as a present/product for family, friends, friends of friends, band mates etc etc

Hey Jules, have you built the naughty fish? If so, where in Australia did you source the on/on/on switch from?

Thanks for the quick response Bean. That all seems pretty straight forward

Gday all,

I'm just about to start my Total Recall build and I'm wondering what experiences people have had building it for 18V instead of 24V. Any problems feeding the Lm7915 so close to minimum input voltage (17.5V)?? Any other problems come up?

Thanks,
Todd

I like both the Grind Customs Electric Boogaloo (aka Shoot the Moon) /http://www.grindcustomsfx.com/product/gcfx-electric-boogaloo/ and JMK's Classic Tremolo (aka EA tremolo) http://jmkpcbs.com/product/classic-tremolo/
I've got both a Blue Warbler http://jmkpcbs.com/product/blue-warbler-2/ and a Green Current http://www.parasitstudio.se/store/p7/Green_Currant_Tremolo_PCB.html waiting to be built, they both sound cool on the demos people have done.

Couldn't you use the Sucker Punch PCB from 1776?

Excellent news!!

Just curiously, are there plenty of Harbingers left?

Just thought I'd give an update (mostly for those who stumble upon this thread with a similar problem).

I tried one other LM13600 I had with exactly the same result (i.e. not working). Both were purchased from Tayda.

Ordered a few NJM13600s from Small Bear. They just arrived. Stuck one in the socket. Worked!!

So, it is possible that Tayda has a batch of bad LM13600s. I don't have any other circuits I can test them in to be 100% sure though.

Thanks for the reply Cooder.

I don't have the tri-vibe with me at the moment, but I'll double check the LEDs when I get home.
I would have to say that I have been looking at the LM13600 with suspicion. It seemed odd that it wasn't working how it should considering everything else is correct. I'll have to dig around and look for a replacement. Hopefully that'll be the solution!

Thanks again.

G'day,

So, I'm having trouble with my tri-vibe build. I've used the PCB sold by Chi_boy, build doc
http://home.comcast.net/~gprause/BuildDocs/TriVibe_V3.1_Build_Doc.pdf

LM13600 datasheet http://pdf1.alldatasheet.com/datasheet-pdf/view/8638/NSC/LM13600.html

Firstly, I have reflowed all solder joints, so there shouldn't be any cold solder joints. I have checked all resistor and capacitor values visually.

In the vibe position there is basically no sound (though if the amp is turned all the way up low volume sound can be heard)
In the other 2 switch positions the signal passes through un-modulated at about unity volume. This tells me that the signal is bybassing the 13600 and instead going through R18 or R19

I've narrowed the probable problem area down to pins 9, 10, and 12 of the LM13600.
Their respective voltages are 1.5V, ~0.2V, and ~0.2V. Based on the voltage lists I have found elsewhere, pin 9 should be 4-4.5V, and pins 10 and 12 should be approx 5.5V. The voltages at all other IC pins measure correctly.

Following the path with a signal probe, the first half of the IC works as expected, that is, signal enters at pin 7 exits at pin 8 with modulation. Depth and rate knobs affect modulation. All working as it should.
Next, following the path from pin 8 through C4(1n5) to pin 10 the signal is as it should be. It is at pin 9 where the signal basically stops. Now, if I absolutely crank the volume on the amp, I can hear the sound of the modulated guitar signal (definately the guitar signal, not some LFO noise).   

So, I'm hoping for some fresh thinking and possibly somebody with a better understanding of the LM13600 or the circuit. I can post pictures if needed, I'm just waiting on the battery in my iphone to charge.

Thanks,
Todd

The Double Flush can get a nice swampy Born on the Bayou sound.

I think the Slow Loris is a Rat with popular mods such as the clipping switch in the Mo'D and the Ruetz mod. So, yeah you should be able to use the Slow Loris PCB.

I've never implemented this mod on a fuzz face before so I can't talk from experience. If you look at the Zygote build doc found somewhere here http://www.madbeanpedals.com/forum/index.php?topic=5134.0, read about the strain control. It's pretty much the same thing. It is possibly only useful for making adjustments to suit specific guitars, a humbuckered Les Paul vs a single coiled Telecaster or something like that.

I'd wire it between your footswitch and 'C' (or 'IN'). 'A', 'B' and 'C' are all connected on the PCB by a trace.