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Banged out a couple of Plexi type things.  Marsha800 is a Pedalpcb M800, and Marsha x3 is a Haberdasher Plexitone etch.  Both are Tayda drill/powdercoat/UV print.  I'll get knobs that fit that spacing on the x3 one day....  Messed up the alignment on the x3, but oh well, whatever.

I was logged on as Haberdasher, or Jimilee, or myself depending on what area of the forum I was in.

Wasn't able to post in the build reports until I was, neither are showing up in the subs, and with the second one I got an error page saying I'd already submitted the post.

Nothing super special beyond getting to build another Arcadiator thanks to the PIF.  I used the same artwork as last time, but used a Tayda drill and UV print.

Guts are nothing special, just banged those out, and despite measuring the template, I managed to get the pot row too low. 

Is this maybe a good alternative to the TPA3118? (Do you know it?)

It might be alright, but the TPA3116/8 are 50 and 30watt per side amps (allegedly).  This is a 3110, 15w a side.

Lately I've been messing with Aliexpress amps pcbs.  Hit and miss, had one that was great, but only one side worked....

Some of those little amp pcbs are surprising loud.  I've built a couple and gigged with them.  Push them through a 4x12 and they'll keep up with acoustic drums.

https://www.madbeanpedals.com/forum/index.php?topic=33275

I've been sitting on both the enclosure and the pcb for a while, just waiting to get a 1p8t.  Actually got a bit proactive and found them at diyguitarpedals so off we went and boxed it up.

Tayda UV print, Jimilee pcb.  Sounds pretty good, fairly fuzzy at high settings, feels very Smashing Pumpkins to me (which is odd, given the Muff association).

Willy.

Meanwhile, the rest of the world was going, "Huh? it's 31/12/2023...."

Love the pedalboard, but here's a golden question for you - ToneX or IR-X?

I repaired a pedal just last week that depended on the enclosure for in/out jack shield grounds, it was crackly whenever you wiggled the plugs.  A direct ground run fixed it.  I like to use a star ground to some convenient point like the input or output jack shield, with direct runs to important ground points (like charge pump grounds) and daisy chaining the others (like LED grounds.)  You can also add a ground row to the vero and tie everything there.  If you need an expander for the jack shield connector, I like this kind:

Looks like you're decoupling your effects from the power too.  I used to do that, but was getting weird results from any effects that weren't compression or distortion.

I've had the enclosure ready for *ages*, just need to get that bloody rotary...

It looks like the sets/locations are taken from the games verbatim.  Looks to be closer to the source material than that horrible Discworld thing that came out a couple of years ago.

I still have to box this up.  I have the enclosure ready (Tayda UV print) but need the get the rotary.

Willy.

That was the first mod I ever did.

Was it Midwayfair who did a subjective diode listening test with various diodes in the Klon.  I can't find the page unfortunately.

I've done a few of these now, and I would start by downloading their BB template.

https://www.taydaelectronics.com/hardware/enclosures/enclosure-uv-printing-service.html

I use the .AI as I use illustrator for these, and then save the final as a PDF as they specify.  TBH, your PDF looks way too big for a BB.

Here's one of mine (search the build reports for "Willybomb" if you want to see more):

https://www.madbeanpedals.com/forum/index.php?topic=34553.msg33025

And I'll attach the file for it so you can see what it should look like: