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Messages - Max

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1
General Questions / Re: MXR M166 Time Delay schematic anyone???
« on: October 06, 2020, 02:23:21 PM »
Great, thanks!
Max.

2
General Questions / MXR M166 Time Delay schematic anyone???
« on: October 06, 2020, 10:21:07 AM »
I may have found one used with a problem on the switching part of the circuit, if anyone has a schematic of said circuit it would be really appreciated and save me the effort of tracing everything, though it shouldn't be too difficult. At least there are no smd components  ;D
Given that I can get it at a decent price, that is, I have the feeling a lot of people is lurking just for the SAD4096...

Max.

3
Open Discussion / Re: So, What's the Deal With Tayda Electronics???
« on: September 03, 2020, 04:00:38 AM »
Until last month I only bought from Musikding, I'm in Germany and I always found what I needed at reasonable prices. Only had problems with a bunch of jfets out of specs. Last time however I needed something that was out-of-stock at Musikding so I ordered from Tayda and they were precise and fast. Next time I think I'll prepare a list and check price-wise and availability-wise what to buy at Tayda and what at Musikding. On some items they are kind of complementary: for example, Musikding has the mini 3pdt foot switches, and the smd jfets, Tayda has the 1n5230 Zener and the enclosures are cheaper. Shipping costs are also a factor.

4
Build Reports / Reboxing a couple of pedals
« on: August 22, 2020, 02:25:25 AM »
The first is a Tonemender I had in a multieffect that has been torn apart long ago. I thought it would have been nice to have it back on my board so there it is. The second is a TriVibe (THcustoms PCB) where I made some mistake in the enclosure the first time. The graphic was fine, but the inside was a mess, so after a couple of years I decided to clean it up a bit. Of course it got a brand new graphic as well.
Funny enough, when the Tonemender was in the multieffect there was a loud POP when the toggle switch was flipped. Well, now it's gone  ;D

5

Anyway, since you started the thread it is now required you provide audio examples of your singing :)

I was afraid you were going to ask for a gut shot  :o :o

Anyway, I actually took voice lessons 15 years ago, but I still suck at singing...

6
General Questions / Re: Power Supply Question
« on: July 29, 2020, 04:00:20 AM »
It has replaced the 1N4001 in the sense that it's an entirely different approach, not that it's in the same place. Plus you don't need R7, which is there to limit the current in case a reverse polarity is applied, because the 1N4001 would create a short to ground.

7
General Questions / Re: Power Supply Question
« on: July 29, 2020, 02:48:09 AM »
I think people have migrated to using a 1n5817 in series these days, rather than the 4001 option.
Yep, at least I did.

8
Build Reports / Re: My take on the Distortion+
« on: July 24, 2020, 03:56:42 AM »
Yeah, I know what you mean, it's a rabbit hole. I wanted to reuse an old enclosure that already had the holes for three switches, so the options were limited.
Luckily  ;D

9
Build Reports / Re: Hamlet Delay (perf board is for masochists)
« on: July 24, 2020, 01:13:17 AM »
 :o :o :o
It would be nice to see a picture of the "dark side of the board"  ;D

10
Build Reports / Re: Blue Wave reverb ... in and out.
« on: July 24, 2020, 01:11:21 AM »
I'd like to be able to do such a neat wiring, well done!
It's not only neat, it's good looking  ;D

11
Build Reports / Re: My take on the Distortion+
« on: July 24, 2020, 01:07:54 AM »
What does the ground lift switch do?
It was an experiment: I'm using a daisy-chain for some of the pedals, depending on the current drained, and I was afraid of some possible ground loops. The ground lift was an attempt to prevent these loops disconnecting the negative of the power jack, but in the end it's not necessary.

Great looking build! I like those flat bat toggle switches. Where'd you get them?
Musikding.de

May I suggest that next time you try a pair of back to back red LEDs across pins 1 and 3 of the gain pot as well as the clippers to ground, and change the gain pot to a 1MegC?

I did that with my Bass Bomb and Darth Punk builds, and it really takes it to a new level of distortion.
Initially the gain pot was a 1M C, but I didn't like the response, so I changed it to a 1M A. It's possible I tried a linear as well, but I don't remember, this build is almost 1 year old  ;D
As for the LEDs: I'm aware of that mod, I've read of a lot of people really happy with it, however, as it is now all the clipping diodes (in whatever combination) are either connected as hard clipping or soft clipping. It would be an interesting experiment by all means, but then in the soft clipping mode I would have all the diodes plus the LEDs connected on 1 and 3 of the gain pot.
As I understand it, the idea would be to have hard clipping diodes plus the LEDs as soft clipping, right?
I have the LEDs so I may as well just give it a try  ;)

12
Build Reports / Re: My take on the Distortion+
« on: July 23, 2020, 02:32:27 PM »
Well, when the switch called symmetry is in the OFF position you only have 2 diodes in series to ground, that is D2 and D3. The result is that you're clipping only one half of the waveform. It's sensibly louder than the other two settings but not so distorted, since half of the waveform is untouched (or should be). I should make a little demo of this one, maybe tomorrow I have some time to do it.

13
Build Reports / My take on the Distortion+
« on: July 23, 2020, 12:31:15 PM »
OK, nothing fancy, classic distortion circuit from MXR. But.
I had a look at the mods proposed here and there, I tried some and decided I didn't like them.
Two of the mods (bass and compression) were very subtle (i.e. I couldn't hear the difference) so, I discarded them. And I didn't like the way the tone control was implemented: instead of a potentiometer in series to ground with the shaping cap before the volume pot, I replaced the 10k resistor at the op-amp output with a 10k potentiometer, and put a capacitor on the centre pin of the pot to ground. Actually, I put two caps, with an on-off-on switch, so I can have two settings or disable it entirely.
Then the diodes: since I'm dumb, I misunderstood the circuit, and the result is unexpected: I have an on-on switch that connects the diodes EITHER to the op-amp feedback (soft clipping) or to the output (hard clipping), but I can't have them together. Plus, and here comes another mistake, I ordered the wrong switch, an on-off-on instead of an on-on, so when it comes to switching diodes types I have three options:
- fully symmetric (parallel of 2 1N34 in series)
- "slightly" asymmetric (parallel of 2 1N34 and 1 1N4148 + 1 BAT41)
- "very" asymmetric, that is, 2 1N34 in series to ground only.
The effect is very pronounced, also the tone control is much more effective. I think I tried a 741 and an LF351 as opamp, but I don't remember which one I left in, I suspect the 741.
Ah, yes, the graphic: I didn't really know what to do so I made this sort of faded grey&white which includes part of the schematic.
OK, enough talking (or writing... or reading? whatever) here's a couple of pictures (and the final schematic, maybe it's clearer than my attempt at explaining it)
Ah, there's a lot of space in the top of the enclosure because it's recycled from another project.
Enjoy!

14
OK, nothing fancy, classic distortion circuit from MXR. But.
I had a look at the mods proposed here and there, I tried some and decided I didn't like them.
Two of the mods (bass and compression) were very subtle (i.e. I couldn't hear the difference) so, I discarded them. And I didn't like the way the tone control was implemented: instead of a potentiometer in series to ground with the shaping cap before the volume pot, I replaced the 10k resistor at the op-amp output with a 10k potentiometer, and put a capacitor on the centre pin of the pot to ground. Actually, I put two caps, with an on-off-on switch, so I can have two settings or disable it entirely.
Then the diodes: since I'm dumb, I misunderstood the circuit, and the result is unexpected: I have an on-on switch that connects the diodes EITHER to the op-amp feedback (soft clipping) or to the output (hard clipping), but I can't have them together. Plus, and here comes another mistake, I ordered the wrong switch, an on-off-on instead of an on-on, so when it comes to switching diodes types I have three options:
- fully symmetric (parallel of 2 1N34 in series)
- "slightly" asymmetric (parallel of 2 1N34 and 2 BAT41)
- "very" asymmetric, that is, 2 1N34 in series to ground only.
The effect is very pronounced, also the tone control is much more effective. I think I tried a 741 and an LF351 as opamp, but I don't remember which one I left in, I suspect the 741.
Ah, yes, the graphic: I didn't really know what to do so I made this sort of faded grey&white which includes part of the schematic.
OK, enough talking (or writing... or reading? whatever) here's a couple of pictures (and the final schematic, maybe it's clearer than my attempt at explaining it)
Ah, there's a lot of space in the top of the enclosure because it's recycled from another project.
Enjoy!

15
General Questions / Re: Repairing a Pride of Texas
« on: June 27, 2020, 03:26:34 AM »
Et voilą, it took me two months to get the replacement diode from China, but there you go, it works!
Many thanks to Aion for the help ;)

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