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From the Album "Solder and Rust"... Ok that was a bad ozzie joke :-) I'm on a roll this week, here's my Beanscream :-) I went for BJT input buffer because I'm short on JFETs, and I'm happy to get an idea of what the OG sounds like but I can always 'upgrade' later :-)

Cheers !


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I still use the old library and Dave at effects layouts has a library I also use. He has a tutorial here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X67wazQz0zQ I can't remember if he links it in the notes or where I got it. It's a great multi video tutorial though.


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Thanks ! I'll have a look.



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Wait until you learn how to make a schematic and layouts. Then you're hoarding on colossal scale.

Hah !

I started playing a bit with Kicad :-) I might try some simple things next holiday, we'll see...

Talking of which, I found somewhere a converted (to Kicad) old version of @madbean 's library (V3 I think). Are you guys aware of something newer/better put there ? I remember seeing a post by Mr Bean mentioning he was working on a newer release but I doesn't seem to have eventuated. I would even happily pay for it :-)



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It's just me or is PCB hoarding a thing ? :-)

I keep buying "that looks like this might sound good" from Brian (or Aion, occasionally elsewhere)... And end up actually building only a fraction of those.

Sometimes I pick up an old one and bam ! It's been updated ... Then the temptation to buy the updated version....

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Very very cool. If you haven't built one yet, build a green Russian muffin. As a bassist, it's my go to fuzz.

I built one ages ago from a fuzz dog or musikding kit, I don't remember :-) before I knew what I was doing for sure :-) I might pop it open one of these days to look at the damage, he doesn't use much.

I'm going to do a violet ram's head soon too for guitars. I have the Tayda box already and I've breadboarded it to play with different diodes:



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Make sure to give your son the blurb from the build doc about how the knobs interact.

Thanks, good call !

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I like your design !

I happen to have just finished my build of Misfit today too, here's what it looks like (did I say I love Tayda UV printing already ?)

This weekend I'll hear what the kids (who can actually play) make of it :-)

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Also while talking about misfit, if you ever respin it, small suggestion: if you can, add half a mm more room for C4, quite a few 220n film caps are a bit fatter:-)

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Nothing of consequence... Shopping list calls for 2 x 9k1 resistors but there's only one in the B.O.M :-)

Made be check the schematic & Aion's version to be sure I wasn't missing something :-)

@madbean ^

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Tayda delivered, I found some time, here's the next toy for my bassist son !

Only quickly tested on a guitar which I can't really play, it sounds glitchy and all over the place but I think that's the spirit :-) Definitely not meant to play a guitar chord through that thing !



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It's be easier to just not buy the caps with the  gold leads. Sounds like they're more expensive and more hassle.

This :-) I'll go through the ones I have and then go back to my stock of Panasonics, Kemet and Wurth :-) (I still use those for the non audio path too, mostly Wurth)

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So in the end, shortening the legs, fine grit sandpaper, cleaned with IPA and plenty flux does the trick :-) they still need a bit more time with the iron on the legs than the other ones but it's not as crazy ... Hopefully they'll all work when I'm done with this build (Boom boom, only using the FG caps for the audio path 1uF's).



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Hello all.

Received 4x boards earlier this week, and making good progress. 

So far, mostly going welll however, it seems the Burly Bear documentation and currently shipping boards are not quite matching up. Is there a new rev of the documentation that correlates with the current board layout?


Thank you

Make sure to use the link from the store page. If you just Google you usually end up with the older PDF

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What board are you soldering them in to?

I had the issue with several, including Anamorph, and recently TH's Tube Driver (madbean is out of Archibald and I wanted a second one :-) So I don't think it's ground plane sucking heat. It does happen with both legs and every time with those specific caps.

As for the other replies, I have been fairly 'liberal' with the flux pen but it might be a crappy one... I'll look into getting some paste.

That said I am not new to soldering and it's the first time I hit something like this. It could be oxidation of the legs I suppose. I'll see if cleaning them helps next time.

It does look like the cap itself is sucking all the heat :-)

I will sacrifice one or two on a bit of vero to see if I can find a magic solution. Maybe going hotter on the Weller for less time...

I might try with leaded solder too... I mostly switched to unleaded to appease my better half but it's been a while and no issue with Wurth, Panasonic or even other Nichicon caps. Only those fine gold ..


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Hi Folks !

Just wondering if this is just me ... I grabbed a few bags of Nichicon "fine gold" caps from pedalpartsaustralia.com.au (I think stompboxparts has some too), and I've been somewhat struggling with soldering them :-)

I never had that problem before, it's odd... the leg sizes are no bigger than other caps but for some reason they behave like the fat legs of black diodes, ie, it takes a LOT of heating before the solder adheres to the leg. At that point, the cap itself becomes really hot and I already had to replace one that was acting as an open circuit, I suspect due to heat damage.

I normally solder at 380C using lead free solder, I've done it for years, and never had such a problem. I usually don't need to heat a component for more than 1s.

Am I doing something dumb here ? :-)