Messages

I don't know how to explain the second problem very well. It's an intermittent issue that sometimes the pedal doesn't output full power, and I try unplugging it or switching on and off a few times and eventually whatever it is clears up and it works fine from then on.

I built the madbean TrebleBooster Rangemaster2020, it's awesome, but does not play well with my board power supply, I've had to use a dedicated One Spot.

symptoms:
When I give it an "isolated" (I know probably not truly isolated $75 pedal power supply) from my board power box it HISSES like crazy.
-this does not occur when using a One Spot, but I'd like to know what's causing this and possibly think of a remedy.

Also, sometimes there's a power up delay, sometimes kind of struggles to get up to full power,
and if I unplug it it whines like a failing hyperdrive.
I know charge-pumps are problematic but I've never had such a "tube warming up" amount of time for a pedal to come to life.
-is this maybe indicative of a problem with the Max1044 or 47uf cap?

*UPDATE*
It was the LP2950, there are 3.3v or 5v options, I had the 3.3.
once I replaced it with the 5v the Relay started working as expected and the switch works.
Pretty small detail that is difficult to catch in the build docs. So hopefully this helps someone.

[No clean bypass signal]

I built the Old School (opto tremolo) with the VFE Switching Board.

The effect worked, LED flashing with speed, all pots and switches worked.
but somehow there's
No clean bypass signal

Is there a way to verify the Relay?
Does anyone have voltages for the other ICs?

Thanks!

Hey gang, just an update.

I have the Mutron/Neutron working... but I've been dealing with an incessant whine/squeel

I've jumpered pins 1,8 on the MAX1044, helped a lot, but still have whine all over the place.

Turns out, I missed a small detail in the build doc, about using 2 "CHOKES" when going single +9v supply - as I am doing.

This means I was maybe intuitively correct about my thumb helping via some kind of induction. I was pressing on the areas where the Chokes are meant to go - I will install them next week when they arrive, but I have reason to believe this is the solution.

haha, definitely stabbing in the dark.

I've done as you say, found a bad joint, and replaced the charge pump, but something is weird in that one spot of the board.

It's right where there's an "optional" bipolar power input (i'm not using, although I've started thinking I might, because I hate charge pumps!),
It's like an inductance thing or some kind of grounding..

am I grounding it by touching?
Does my thumb make an electrical bridge between joints?

What's the go-to prognosis when touching part of the board (underside) with my thumb seems to help?

I've checked joints and continuity along traces... am I an inductor?

I solved the floppy treadle problem with a nylon washer, just squeezed it in there so the hinge is tighter.

I socketed R52, R54 and the mods Cooder suggested definitely sped up the max speed, although it shifts maybe too abruptly now. I can see how a higher K pot could help because the sweetspot is narrow toward the heel position.

I might try some other values in R52, R54 - they went from 27k to 0.47 and 0, a big difference.
Maybe somewhere around 5k7 or something is what I'm after. I'll mess with it again another day, but for now I'm stoked!

Thanks guys

holy crap Cooder, that is beautiful!

I'll look at your suggestions on the speed mods thanks

But can you offer any help with the Enclosure? It looks like you started with the same aluminum enclosure kit I have, it seems like I missed something on assembly. My treadle is loosely flopping around (not that loose but not correct).

What are the three screws at the back attached to? [see pic]

Actually, I have a bunch of left over screws and bits from the enclosure kit. There's a block with a long screw (allen wrench, like a truss rod) that I figured went on the axel as a tensioner but it doesn's seem to do anything...

thanks danfrank.

For the record, I was EXTREMELY careful while building this to avoid a quagmire of debugging. I actually measured every component, cross-checked the schematic, BOM, and diagram, and marked them off one by one. Yet, somehow I completely skipped over Q13 LOL!
Once I discovered that the lamp works and the effect works, very cool sounds.

But I have two more questions, hopefully someone will read this:

1- how can speed up the 'tremelo', even at it's fastest it still feels kinda mellow

2- I got the Wah enclosure from Alibaba, it's made from Aluminum (not like a real Crybaby enclosure) but it's fine.
The treadle doesn't have enough friction to stay in place mid-way, it drops down on its own.
Any tips on what to do to make it more frictiony?

It's a two-pin 18v Lamp,
the socket for the lamp has 14-15v on the positive side, I put a blue LED in there and it pulses, but it's pretty dim.

Is there a voltage or amperage I can measure on that socket to see if the 18v Lamp should be working?

thanks for helping!

[The Lamp does not light up.]

*UPDATED*
I discovered I had skipped Q13, just needed to put that in and the effect works! doh!
Questions about the Max Speed, and treadle friction below, thanks!

Hello,
The Lamp does not light up.

bypass is clean, and when I engage the pedal the LED lights up, guitar signal passes cleanly with some change in tone, knobs and switches have mildly noticeable affect.

Majority of my voltages are spot on the PDF, with some minor discrepancies.

I'm getting about 14v on the positive side of the Lamp. But with it in place there is 14v on both pins - does that indicate a bad lamp?

I measure about 60ohms on my DMM between the two lamp pins.

The lamp came with the PCB, I don't think I blew it, but maybe I did, is that common?

Thanks Brian! I found a response on another thread that said it shouldn't matter which value to use there.
Would you be able to update the PDF to help future noobs ?

No reply to this OP?

Please can anyone confirm the value of C29, C30
They are listed as 100uf in the BOM but the Schematic shows them as 220uf

Thanks for your replies Blackhat, LaceSensor!
I have audio probed this board extensively, and I discovered I required 4 repaired/jumpered traces - not sure if I caused damage or it was a faulty board, but I had a hell of a time getting this thing to work at all.
I will try the Hz measurement that may help.
And something like a clock capacitor seems like a good deeper thing to look at. Would that be C20 / C25?
Is there a good way to test the 3101 chips? How to test the MN3005s?