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It's a metal zone with a fixed mid frequency and without the boss buffer.
It doesn't sound exactly the same, transistors are different and such.
There's absolutely nothing muff about it so no modifying a muff circuit to be done.

Sorry if I'm derailing the topic more, but any chance that the BoomBoom comes back in stock?

@madbean I second this question. Both my boomboom builds flesh to new homes. They're happy there. But my @ss needs some brass.

Oh yes it will soon. The only things for sure not being restocked are some of the 1590A projects, and that's just because they are moving into the 1590B Standard Series for now. I'm going to get on the ball with restocking. Some projects need to be brought up to date but I also don't want to try and redo every project b/c that would take forever. If it has a semi-circular top on the PCB, it's getting an update.

Awesome! I know you've put a ton of energy into the standard series. I think everyone is excited to see the new digs.

Sorry if I'm derailing the topic more, but any chance that the BoomBoom comes back in stock?

@madbean I second this question. Both my boomboom builds flesh to new homes. They're happy there. But my @ss needs some brass.

Fader lube is good stuff just be mindful of where it's being used.
If it's an area where dust can buildup, that dust can get in the pot and stick.  Think amps with fans, club mixing desks, etc. I wouldn't add it proactively in these situations. And it's not a bad idea tonuse deposit or crc first to clean a pot, then just a lil puff of fader lube. That way you don't get lube all over the place (insert joke about working the pot shaft back and forth).

Awesome!
I has kind of going through my troubleshooting concepts, but putting them into exhaustive words isn't always easy
By headless, I meant no screen. Just Incase there was some super noisey rectification stage on it's pcb. Due to the nature of the world's economics, very few things are built to the best of their ability anymore and instead to the cheapest of their ability. That can result in noisy single stage rectifiers where proper octavirus could be implemented for just a few cents more. This is extremely common in LED lighting.
Cheap LED bulbs scream interference like banshees at times.
It appears that you have the room, so I would consider, if I were you, placing both a mains filter on an IEC cable connect coming into the unit as well as a dedicated power supply. Control what you can control and in terms of powerline noise, that gives you a lot of control for very minimal financial investment.
Emi and RFI are weird but those two things will give you some safeguards moving forward for various environments.
Congrats on getting working and quiet and rocking.
You could absolutely use the other pole of those relays for led indicators by the way.
Great work!

They only pinch so much.
Better to physically adhere them. And since you already have the iron in your hand... Why not use that?
Say you are floating a control board with 5 9mm pots in a straight line. GBMTO or OTBMBG...
And below it, you have a multifx dsp.
Everything on the lower pcb needs the higher pcb to not ---- up and touch it.
I say this not in theory as this was basically every Peavey digital pedal I've ever seen, not that there were many.
Obviously the pots were not designed for pedals, but the PCBs were.
Anytime you design, what's the worst case.scenerio?
In pedalsz it's "overly excited 300+ pound bass player"
So, what's the best part selection for that, short of those whacky tone-lok gizmos Ibanez used for 6 weeks? A pot with 5 solid points of contact.
Also. I may know the troubleshooting post your referring to, and I highly suspect any porition of the issue was lack of solder on the mounting tabs.  Reflowing the other connections likely solved that one.
I'm exhausted. Hope the above is legible. G'ni...

[all]

That looks like a huge and awesome project. I'm not terribly well voiced in Arduino but pretty good on the audio and RGI/EMI side.
Hopefully, as Brian said, it all goes away once in a box. I definitely think your noise is originating internally though, not stray environmental noise. If it's possible, turn off any unused radios(wifi, Bluetooth...).  Adding extra filtering to all (3?) power supplies would be ideal. With that much cabling in you test setup, your probably just picking it up from that. What does perturb me is that as you Arduino cycles, the noise changes. That leads.me to believe either it or it's supply are the source.
That being said, start with adequate filtering there. ¿Maybe? even a ferrite bead if you want to get fancy.
Also, on Brian's coattails, any change with all pedals bypassed vs all bypassed and all powered off? If so, try to narrow down which one. Start with any pedal with a charge pump/buck/boost. Could also try running just a bunch of patch cables through the loops(no pedal) and see if it's cumulative/additive as more pedals are added.
And of course, wiggle any wires where data and audio cross.
Could also tin foil hat the Arduino and see if that depletes it. If you find that's the origin and filtering/changing supply doesn't remedy it, you may have to try a different model or find a shielding solution. Oh, also, run it headless(no screen) if able.
Hopefully some food for thought and something eventually helpful. Really want to see how this comes together as it's freakin awesome!

Anyone notice I accidentally took a pic of the 3080s I bought and not the 308s?
Lol

Another less blurry photo
The 3 from eBay have 3 different date codes
The 7 from Jameco share the same 3 codes across them

The Nat Semi logo on the pdips is all wrong.  It should be fatter in the middle of the N, not uniform thickness

I'll add this
The Moto's in foam came from Jameco last week. The ones in the green holders came from eBay last summer(no fake Chinese bull.....)
They share the same production codes and look identical.
Is anything real?
Also, the Jameco PDIP LM308s fail resistance tests. They are fake. I only bought 3 but emailed them Friday night.

I LOVE the sound of this thing.  I haven't done any vero boards other than a few utility things and printed this out.  Right about the time I figured I'd never have the b*lls to get a real piece of vero to work this one out I get a PIF from over at PedalPCB and now I'm committed....

Lars
Circling back around to this, any chance you'd share your final circuit on this?
I've got an itch that this would definitely scratch!

Finally...

I love it when a plan comes together.
No, I think mines in the pcb graveyard box currently. I can't remember if I fried it, borked it or just got tired of fooling with it.
I recently bought a dedicated bench laptop and a 2 ch interface. Plan to use a software generator and analyzer (SMAART). Just need to cobble together a reamp box of some sorts.

If you add up the numbers you get 12. That's exciting!

Which is 4 bars of 3/4 time. Maths!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Or 1 bar of 7 and one bar of 5
Then it djents.

Recommended mods:

I have one of those I've futzed around with. For the R2 pot, I'd go with the smaller value as these output way hotter signal than a guitar.
I never finished mine but had mounted trimpots on vero to a switch to basically switch between preset levels for guitar and bass.
You'll get more than enough volume at 9v so 12v shouldn't really be a concern.