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Nice! I really love my GGG Triangle. After trying many different transistors, the most regular, common, standard 2N3904's sounded best in mine. They gave the most clarity and tightness, if that's what you're after. Where did you get the red switch?

Total Re-decal?

Sorry...   

The enclosure looks nice, but that has to be the absolute worst place for a toggle switch ever man!

Sorry to resurrect this topic, but has anyone else made one of these? I'd like to hear it, if so.
The Overdrive is the same thing as the original Powerboost ?

I believe the original Overdriver was a 9v version of the original 18v Power Boost, but the sound is basically the same. The circuit is too, apart from one resistor that is connected differently and some part values. Don't expect a Tube Screamer style soft overdrive though. It's more like a clean(ish) boost that suddenly turns into a fuzz at the end of the gain dial. I like it to turn an overdriven amp into a MONSTER.

Very nice! What model number / size enclosure is that?

Very nice! How's the quality of the Pedal Parts boards?

I once built a Superfuzz where I just barely reached unity gain. I then doubled the germanium diodes. This gave me some more volume and slightly less maximum fuzz, but this circuit has so much fuzz that it still had more than enough.

Are you saying that your script Phase 90 is more subtle than the Phase 45? Because I believe it should be the other way around, as the 90 has more phase stages.

I built it, with the Banzai Univibe kit. It's expensive, but it works perfectly and without any hassle. I also ordered an extra bulb, just in case.

I have the LDR's pointed right at the bulb. I tried both a black rubber light shield and the same one, but with aluminium foil on the inside to make it reflective. To be honest, I didn't actually hear a difference after a quick test.

I was wondering about how other people set the trimmers. I read the guide for the forum vibe and used that to adjust it. I started with both at zero position. For gain, that's fully counter clockwise and for offset it's fully clockwise. I set the Intensity pot at zero, Speed halfway and the mode switches to vibrato and modern. I started adjusting the offset trimmer so the lamp was dimly lit, which was at about 30% counter clockwise. I then put the Intensity pot on full and started adjusting the gain trimmer until I got the biggest warble, which was about 40% clockwise. More than that didn't really give me more warble but it does light the lamp brighter which I assume will shorten the lifespan, so I left it at 40%. I switched to chorus mode and then started fiddling with the offset trimmer again and found that I got the most intense effect when adjusting it just a little higher, to 40% counter clockwise. Because I read that the controls were so interactive I also tried the adjust the gain trimmer again, but it was best where I originally left it.

So this is how I ended up setting the trimmers for the Harbinger with the Banzai kit: gain at about 40% clockwise and offset at about 40% counter clockwise. I get a huge chop in chorus mode with the Intensity on full, but when I back it off to about 12 o'clock to 2 o'clock I get a really nice swirly sound that actually cuts through an overdriven amp sound really well.

This is a really excellent project. It's small, works really well, is versatile and sounds great! I'm sure that I am going to enjoy this effect very much.


EDIT: perhaps I should add that I used 18v from my VL Pedal Power with a splitter cable and I used 4k7 for R46. Other than that, it's stock.

What is it?

@Diamond, there's an open thread in the forum right know about 1N34A and mr Midwayfair is highlighting some points about these diodes.

Mine aren't the vintage ones at all, so maybe there's a difference.

Thanks, I'll go check it out!

The reason I asked is because in my personal experiment between 1N270, 1N277, 1N60 and 1N34a the 34a's came out as the winner. They sounded best 'balanced' frequency wise in my vero Klone. But I guess from your response that could have been other '1N34a' diodes. I have big glass ones with green stripes.

Excellent clean build. I like that. You say you prefer OA126's to 1N34a's. Why? What's the sound difference?

It's nice to see that not everyone uses the 'standard' pedal order that gets recommended by all the wise men over the interweb. I myself like my delays before dirt and people who only see my board tell me it should be the other way around, but hey, I just prefer the way it sounds.

That seems like a great combination of effects, btw. Quite versatile for guitar, plus it should work for bass as well. Which type/size enclosure is it?

What the hell are you guys complaining about? I always use the small piher trimpots in Madbean projects (Lowrider, Colosalus, etc). You just have to bend the legs back a little and they fit perfectly!

I also used one of these for the first time in my Stage Fright: http://www.banzaimusic.com/Other-Trimpots/ Fits beautifully, but again, you have to bend the legs back a little.

These precision trimpots fit instantly: http://www.banzaimusic.com/Vishay-Trimpots/ but I don't really like them, because you can't 'see' what your setting is on them.

Thank you very much for the clip! That sounds really deep and fat. I love it! My PCB is assembled and awaiting to actually be finished, but I would be really happy if mine sounds as good as yours.

How bad is leakage REALLY? I keep reading the same numbers and links, but is there someone with in depth knowledge that ACTUALLY knows and can explain instead of just quoting the same old websites and just saying "anything above xxx is bad, period"?

Is there someone who actually measured the leakage in good sounding germanium fuzzes and compared them to transistors with lower or higher leakage?

Finally, I read somewhere, I believe it was on FSB, that some verion(s) of the Tonebender actually require some leakage to work. Is this true?