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I've recently built three more recent (to me) versions of MB pedals: Slow Loris (2015), Green Bean (2015), Kingslayer (2015)

I also have an older version Slow Loris (v2) I've been using for a while. The two Slow Loris pedals have quite different layouts but the sound very similar sonically (I did setup the 2015 to have asymmetric clipping like the v2).

What I have noticed is that the new 2015 version has lower output at max volume than the v2. I feel like compared to another Klone I have the Kingslayer output volume is lower as well, at least compared to the Aion Refractor I built.. Basically, for the 2015 MB pedals I've built the volumes all sit around 75-100% when using with a reasonable output.

So can I get some more output by increasing the values of the volume pots? I realize these are voltage dividers but if these pots are anything like the voltage divider circuits in guitars, the value can effect the output a lot (i.e., comparing a guitar with 1M pots vs 250k pots).

I saw another thread on this but it didn't have any resolution and the link to beavis hifi is busted.

Where do you find these snap together? I saw them but they were quite costly if I recall correctly.

I thought the green ones would be great for resistors but now that I have the tubes and things are vertical they probably take up less space. May be nicer for other components.

Adafruit sells them, and you can find them on eBay.

They aren't cheap (the green ones are usually about $1 each) but I find them worth it.  The smaller boxes can be found for about $0.50 each or so.

Where do you find these snap together? I saw them but they were quite costly if I recall correctly.

What size baggies do you use and what do you do to make them rigid and organize well. Some bags will not stack well cause all the resistors sink to the bottom.

I have a hard time with opening bags as well. For example the mouse bags which I sometimes rip the seal off of.

https://www.coinsupplyexpress.com/guardhouse-square-coin-tubes-100-pack.html

Or

https://www.thecoinsupplystore.com/products/coin-safe-square-tubes-qtrs

The second ones actually may be nicer than what I bought as they seem more square. I paid about $40 for 100 so not super cheap but they should last forever.


For ICs, switches, and other parts I use 3-4 Akron mills containers: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BQPZDK?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

You can fit ICs but I feel like they're harder to separate since I don't keep a lot on hand. I can fit more into the Akron containers.

Recently I went to mouser and got sets of 10 or 50 resistors and a bunch of caps to start my "stock" of components. I spent a lot of time finding the ideal way to organize these component and I thought I would share my solution. Other approaches I saw didn't work for me:

• baggies are out because I think they make it hard to find components quickly; it's like looking through the library card catalog
• drawer systems mean that you pretty much can't move them and I always found them to be sloppy

I think I found the solution I wanted -- maybe a bit pricey -- which is to use containers that coin collectors use. Guardhouse Quarter Coin Tube-100 Pack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076Z81915/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_2n9ndm8EjM6Ch

There are many variations and sizes but I picked the quarter size since it was a nice balance between something like a half dollar and a nickel. In my use I can get around 100 resistors in one container but not 200. I also picked the square containers because then they don't roll on the table. Each is labeled then sorted and easy to put back since I normally just take one out at a time. I am planning to build a simple plywood box that will fit all 200 containers.

https://imgur.com/a/X7IFoT0

where did you get that led cover?

For this project I used the cheap Muriatic Acid from Lowes and Hydrogen Peroxide.  Worked amazingly well except for the one time I got a pretty bad whiff of the acid.  I am hoping no brain damage is done.


Etching outside...




The board after etching...




Partially put together, waiting on parts...




Completed build...




In normal use...




I did use the b10k for the gain pot as suggested by the flapjack build docs.  Etching was quite fun but for the cost of having someone ship me an fabbed / drilled board it's not worth the hassle I don't think.  Well, at least until I get a laser guided drill press.  Doing all the holes by hand was something else...

My second build.  I think it's a 69 Fuzz Face.  I don't like the sound, very plastic sounding.  Soon to be gutted for parts and housing.



Firebomb from a MadBean PCB


Slow Loris Build from MadBean PCB




I love having some room in these but am starting to realize the niceness of having some smaller enclosures when in use.

If I read correctly, MadBean is going to be focused on special models rather than "clones".  What about the original PDFs that have been made.  Will these remain available for people to etch their own boards?  I noticed that some of the older versions are not up anymore and was just curious. 

I like knowing they're available is all, else I'll probably compulsively come download them regularly

Thanks.  This all makes me feel better.  I was doing the 3-4 second thing but I was thinking even that was probably bringing the components up too high.

I actually prefer the larger boxes for some reason.  I don't use a lot of pedals so they aren't in the way all that much and for something with two switches it seemed more appropriate.

Slow Loris is next.  I will probably still use a large case for that (replacing a fuzz face build I did on perf board).

It's a Firebomb.

After finishing my PHD I finally got to work on this pedal.  Fairly easy build but time consuming nonetheless.

The only problems I had were on two of the joints, I must have spent too much time with the iron and the circuit started to come off the board.  Once was on a cap that's on the upper left part of the first picture.  It ended up being loose after I mounted the board but I was able to add some more solder so that it connected to the adjacent area better.  Seems to be stable but I'm afraid that I damaged the cap during all of this and or the connection is loose.

The second place i message up was the line going to negative of one of the LEDs.  I think the tip on my iron may be getting old and it didn't seem to be getting the surrounding area hot (surrounding area being the metal on the board, i don't know the name).  Eventually it got too hot and the metal on the board just came off totally.  I just soldered it right to the negative in the end.  Again fingers crossed here.

I highlighted these areas on the closeup but its probably hard to see.

Before putting in the 9V connector I hooked it up and it worked great (so on the first shot it worked amazingly).  I opened it back up,  added the battery connector, put in a 9V, and when I went to try it again, one of the circuits wasn't turning on (well, the LED wasn't lighting up).  I tapped the box and it has been working ever since no matter what.  I actually have a feeling it was related to the the ground for the LED (notice one of the problems I had) not having a good connection.  Because of this I went back in and tried to touch up the places where the board was coming away.  This possibly fixed the issues everything seems to have a good connection now.


I don't have a ton of money to spend on pedals so I hope that it survives playing live etc.  I need to go read the rest of the forums about techniques for soldering but if anyone has any tips I'd be happy to hear em.  I am sorry I didn't get a close picture of the circuit before I mounted it.

Hopefully this makes it through the first show I have in a couple of weeks in Des Moines.  If anyone is from that area let me know.

Should I be too worried?

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Any chance of a gut shot?