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Anyone else getting phone calls from shipstation support?  They've called me twice now.  The 1st time they called (yesterday) I didn't answer and they hung up after 2 rings.  I googled the # and knew it was them.  They called back today and I picked up, but there was no one there.
Probably just a sales call, but I was wondering if anyone else is getting these.

Not for me.  I didn't know phone support was an option.  Was using email only support when I had a small config issue.

Wow.  Great Info.  I wish I saw this thread a while ago.  Just went through all the same stuff a few weeks back.

I was using Endicia/Dazzle with WooCommerce but now with the changes / I've been forced to upgrade.

I switched to ShipStation/Stamps and after some small issues I got it fully integrated with WooCommerce.  Order fulfillment is easier now, however I feel for international customers who just want to buy a PCB or two.  Shipping prices are exorbitant!  Everything is shipped currently in poly mailers. 

The way I understand it is that the UPU wanted to track actual mail vs packages for better import:export data. I hope this changes back to something more reasonable, however in the meantime it is what it is. 

Just a thought.  If shipping is going to be this expensive maybe there is an opportunity for local PCB manufacturers to take gerbers and orders from sellers and make boards to order.  Kind of like OshPark.  I wonder what OshPark is doing?


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Really clean build, layout, and laser etch!  Killin it.

I have one of those irons. I can say the genuine Weller tips last longer - be careful of eBay aftermarket ones even though they are cheep


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JFET switching for best tone
True bypass is not good as original
The true TS808 shines on


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Sorry for your loss Jimi.


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Great find!  Lucky


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Cody, looking great as usual!  Nice job!

Damn, I just use a spring center punch...

Are you squirting the iso on the bit before you start or on the enclosure where you are going to drill? Sounds like from the Sharpie part you are applying it to the enclosure before drilling.

Because the Sharpie runs in the iso, i'm just "kissing" the surface with the bit without iso to make a nice divot where the punch mark is.  After all the marks are now little divots (for that side) I'm then drilling all the way through with the iso. 

You can certainly not use Sharpie at all (just harder to see the punch marks).

I just drilled 325 holes last night using the iso and it worked out wonderfully.  There was minimal clogging of the flute of the step bit which I was able to knock off easily.  I kept checking the bit temp and it was cool to the touch.  An added bonus is that the chips seem to stay closer to the hole due to being wet.

I found that when I use a center punch I like to mark the punch marks with a dab of felt tip marker (sharpie).  The iso makes the sharpie smear so I found a good idea was to use my 1/8" drill to just start the hole without any iso.  I don't go all the way through.  Once all the little "divots" are made then I drill normally all the way through and apply iso all over the hole and bit.  When enlarging the hole with the bit (especially larger holes for 3PDT and DC jacks) I squirt a little on the hole and then up the bit. 

I'm sure I'm overthinking/overexplaining this but just wanted to share my experience. 

I picked up a hot rod deville 2x12 recently and so far we're getting on famously, however, I've been told I can put a volume pedal in the loop to help give a little more control over the rather twitchy volume when I'm using it at home.

Does anyone have a link to a layout/schematic I could use?  I'm not sure what value pot or the best way to wire it up.

http://stinkfoot.se/archives/2159

[The most important thing is to not overheat the switch.]

It really is personal preference whether you "fill er up" or just tack one half of the lug.  Either is acceptable.  The most important thing is to not overheat the switch.  I think most of us have done it - you know that feeling when the red epoxy starts becoming fluid again...  I like to run my iron hot (750F) and not spend more than a three count.  If you want to "fill it up" and can't get all of it in 3 seconds, just do half - let it cool and come back to it.

1.  Use a flux pen to coat the 3PDT PCB and lugs liberally with flux (this is optional but helps a lot)
2.  As each column of lugs are connected (vertical columns) use the following pattern to solder in this fashion:

s = soldering this lug

s x x
x x x
x x x

then

x x s
x x x
x x x

then

x s x
x x x
x x x

and so on.  It really doesn't matter how you mix it up..just try NOT to do this (soldering the column vertically in succession).

s x x
s x x  (don't do this!)
s x x

I like to solder with no more than a "3 count" and like Stomptown said...give it maybe 3-5 seconds or more before doing the next lug.

I have to disagree with Ben about the HiFi terminals. I used them on my testing rig and wished I had used alligator clamps. easier to hook up your board without having to use way too long pieces of wire on the board that you will trim later and most often throw out. ymmv

I can see your point of view, however that's is exactly how I do it.  I tin the four leads (which stick into the speaker terminals) and leave them long on each project.   Projects not box worthy are easily hooked up in seconds without fear of shorting. 

I'd rather leave the four wires a bit long on each project than fiddle with alligator clips trying to grab onto 4 loose wires and keeping them from shorting out.  This goes especially when its flopping around my bench and a guitar lead is plugged into the rig.  The loss of 2-4 inches of wire length is literally pennies and doesn't bother me one bit. 

I like the speaker terminals as well but Felix is right that you will end up wasting a bit of wire in a the process so I'd take the that in to account for sure. One thing I would suggest is to add an audio probe to the testing rig so you can troubleshoot with it as well as test your circuits. 

+1!  Very easy to repurpose an old multimeter lead or make one out of a pen as Bean's great tutorial shows.  I need to do this.  I usually just grab a piece of solid core wire and tack a 100n onto it.

Thanks all.  I'd be interested to see what you think when you try it.

I don't know if I'm just using some extra soft enclosures, but I have a drill press plus a set of cheap brass coloured stepping bits (I think I paid $5 or $10 for a pack of 3) and it just goes literally like butter with no lube. It doesn't make metal spirals either like the 1/8 inch aluminium synth panels I used to drill. It just turns the aluminium almost to dust.

At first, they all start this way.  Then the heat build up leads to galling and soon the edge gets dull.

Good tip Ben!  I resharpen my step bits.  I've been using the same 3 bits for 6+ years.  The fluting on the bit is quite large so its easy to get in there with a flat file and resharpen the edge.  Works for me!

That's awesome. I am going to have to try this on some of mine!

there's also something to be said for reading the owner's manual for your drill press and choosing the appropriate speed setting for the material you're working.

Very true.  With metal its almost always, "Slow speed.  Slow feed."  Reminds me of shop class in school.

Some people have suggested using vegetable oil + water.  I haven't tried this yet.

I use the TiNi (I THINK) stuff on my step bits, and they still get aluminum stuck on them quite often.  I'm constantly having to pry off the 'melted' aluminum.

I'm sure the Veg oil will work fine.  It's just a pain to ensure you clean off every last bit before you are painting/coating otherwise you can  run into issues with that.

Awesome tip. Looks like I need one of these next to my drill press:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004JE6AWU/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=GS578GCN9BYH&coliid=I2SV56YL43KQ3P&psc=1

Cody

That will work but is a bit too small for my taste.  Something like these is the ticket.  I use these cheap containers for Iso, Naptha, and Simple Green around the bench.

http://www.harborfreight.com/pack-of-3-8-oz-storage-bottles-with-twist-caps-66170.html