Messages

Congrats Jimi!

Hey Guys!
I have an older version of the Cardinal Trem (non-tap tempo) that I would like to try a mod for. I've seen a couple of tremolos that have a second LFO that modules the rate knob so that essentially the rate speed will go up and down etc. I would love to mod the Cardinal to do this. Can I just build an LFO and wire it up to one of the lugs on the rate pot, or would it be more complicated than that? I'll likely try it either way, just wanted to put it out there to the committee XD.
Thanks!
-Kevin

Hey all,
Recently finished up a Roboto from PedalPCB, and everything works but the "Mode" knob. Turning it in either direction has no effect on the sounds. The Volume and "Control" knobs both work as expected, and the sounds coming out are normal for a HT8950. Not sure if it's maybe an issue with the ATTINY or something else. I'll post the voltages from that below, please let me know if there's anything else you need from me.
Thanks!
-Kevin
ATTINY85 Voltages (with the "mode" knob turned fully counterclockwise).
1 - 3.2v
2 - 0.0v
3 - 0.4v
4 - 0.0v
5 - 3.2v
6 - 3.2v
7 - 3.2v
8 - 3.2v

Hey all,
A ways back I purchased a Triton delay PCB off of the board here from Culturejam. One issue I've ran into since building it is that it has a pretty significant pop when using the bypass switch (in both positions). Not sure where to start with this, but hoping to get it working as this is an awesome delay otherwise, but the noise makes it slightly unusable for me. I've done one modification of making the Tone trim an external pot, but it had the pop before I did that when it just had a trimmer on board. One of the "time" LED resistors has another one in parallel you'll see in the picture because they weren't the same brightness for some odd reason (it had the pop before I did that also just FYI). Gut shot below, let me know if there's any other info needed.
Thanks!
-Kevin

I've had an idea rolling around in my head of having my artist draw up something that uses PCB trace lines. Probably a Phoenix as I've wanted a tattoo of one for a while, but don't want it to look stereotypical or cheesy.
-Kevin

Hang in there Brian! Prayers for you and yours. Your community is behind you all the way!
-Kevin

Based on some testing it would appear that bleed thru is the problem. It is directly influenced by how high the depth knob is set. I may just have to live with it because this build is so tight that I'm stuck with the dpdt for the tails switch. I considered wiring the LED side of the dpdt to have ground on lug 2, and using one lug to light the LED when not in bypass, and wiring the other lug somewhere to ground out the part of the circuit that is running the input through all the reverby stuff, but I don't if that is a good/healthy option for the circuit. Thoughts?
Thanks!
-Kevin

I tested the switch with a meter, and it seemed to be fine, but I'll try desoldering the wires and see if that makes a difference or not.
Thanks!
-Kevin

Hey All,
Got my Tesseract Reverb all done, and it's awesome! The only issue I'm having is that when I hit the tails switch to bypass I'm still getting some of the wet signal, but it does seem to be fainter. I implemented the pcb fix mentioned in the doc about connecting r27 to d1, and I believe I did it correctly. No major part substitutions that I can remember. Any thoughts on what I need to do? Here is a photo of the component side of the board.

I found a thread where m-Kresol used Tayda LDRs and green diffused LEDs, so that's likely the route I will go. Thanks for the help everyone, and having patience with my errors.
-Kevin

Ah, I made the mistake of thinking that VTL5C3/2 meant that there was a 3 and 2 version, and that either would work, so now I know that it's a full part number  .
I'll start researching what LDR combos have worked for everyone, as I now see that the correct part is 15 dollars a piece, yikes!
Thanks for the help.
-Kevin

Here is the top side. I can pull it apart and take a photo of the bottom if needed, but that section is only for the taplfo stuff correct? Also the two halves are joined, so I hope to not have to separate them 

I admittedly didn't measure them first. I took the foolish gamble, and ass u me'd that these would work since they're the fancy ones.

Thanks!
-Kevin

Also, I forgot to mention this built on the older 2 pcb sandwich set. Thanks!

Hey All,
Recently just finished up a Liquid Mercury Phaser. Everything seems to be working control wise etc, but the phasing is pretty subtle compared to the demo videos, even at the more extreme settings and the bias nearly cranked. It almost sounds more like a modulated filter than a phase if that makes any sense. I used the Small Bear XVive VTL5C3 work-alike photocouplers, so I'm hoping that isn't the issue since they are 6 bucks a piece  . Not sure where to start with this one since everything else seems to be working, so any help/guidance would be much appreciated.
Thanks!
-Kevin

I stole one out of kids toy once and it introduced and oscillation type noise into my circuit. I don't have the smarts to isolate it from the audio, so I just went with a traditional one. That was a while ago, and YMMV.
Thanks!
-Kevin