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I went to a University with strict fire policies. No hotplates, mini-fridges, Christmas trees, etc. I lived in a small hall that only had 15 guys, so my RA was always snooping around. I started soldering and my RA said he didn't care as long as I was being careful. Soldering iron wasn't actually on the fire policies, so he couldn't tell me no. If he did, I would have just chased it up the ladder the highest school employee who would hear my case. More opinions, more chances for someone to approve. The soldering iron actually got me a job in the IT department, some bench fee money from fixing random students' stuff, and I sold a few pedals to musicians at school.

I say ask your RA, don't say that you have the stuff on you, but that you want a definitive answer.
If all else fails, find an outdoor outlet, bring your card table(for the tonez), camping chair, and solder outside(weather permitting, of course).

Edit: Also, if you do start soldering on campus. Don't waste time convincing college students that you don't know how to make a bomb. They won't believe you anyway.

Solo around 2:49.

I already built a Collosalus, but I would totally build a smaller one.

Maybe try reseating the EEPROM(I think that is what it is called???). On the Line 6 x4 pedals, reseating sometimes does the trick if the pedal is glitching out like that.

I'll be honest with you guys, I'm not sold on the Klon.

Currently on my board, I have two ODs, a Klone(apis) and a Ibanez Tubescreamer (modded to 808). Maybe because of the hype, I want to dislike the Klon, who knows. The Klon kicked my second TS off my board, but 95% of the time, I still just use my 808.
3% of the time, I run Klon just above unity with some grit into the TS and it is great for leads.
2% of the time, I run the Klon by itself.

I built one for a friend and he pooped himself when he heard it. He forced me to make him 2 more so he could have different settings ready to go at any time during a gig.

Is something wrong with me?

Have you done a factory reset? I've "fixed" 2 DL4s by just performing a factory reset. Power the pedal up with A and D pressed down.

If that doesn't work take a look at reply #3 in this thread. http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=41142.0

I've actually printed out that post and put it in a drawer for safe keeping, I've revived 3 DL4s with that info.

Hope it helps.

I ordered one of the packs of 6 as well. My grouping looks a lot like everyone elses. I have one 1590bb drilled for a multi, A big pink box(1790?) drilled for 10 knobs, two 1590bs, one for 4 knobs and the other 2 knobs, and a 1590a drilled for two jacks, led and a switch.(I'm assuming a loop or channel switch).

Annnd then there is the silver guy with 4 giant holes. I was going to see if xlr's fit in the holes. I may make a two channel phantom power supply(as my mixer doesn't have phantom) and use the serial port looking hole as the power supply.

I have had a few EHX pedals (a couple small stones) come by me with the FB (which I assume to mean ferrite bead???) located nearest the power jack doing weird things. I can't remember if they were failing open or closed, but they were the problem. I assumed they were just for rf filtering, pulled them, and everything was great after that.

Ok guys I started the best storage idea! I think it's mine, I haven't seen any one else do it. But here it is

The first picture shows resistors and other small parts. They are in a trading card sleeve. The second shows you can do possible kit w/board organizing. You could also get the full page sleeves and put the build doc in the binder with the parts!


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I use a combination of card binder, plastic bin and ziplock bag method.
I store resistors and diodes in the card binder because they are thin when laying down on tape. Caps, are too big and I find that they tend to fall out when the binder gets knocked on the floor (it will happen).

When I am getting projects ready to build I go through the binder and locate all of the resistors needed for a build. I tear (or cut) the resistors off with a small section of tape that they are connected to. I then write the value on that piece of tape. I do the same for diodes, but they typically have their code printed on the diode itself.

I store caps in three different bins. I store them in the little bags from the suppliers (I have a stack of extra empty bags in case I order from a supplier with giant bags (mouser). I keep them in order, greatest in the back, smallest in the front. The bins are 1.Electro, 2.Film and 3.others(greenies, tant, mlcc, ceramic etc). I hate converting the codes on film caps, so I write the value how it is printed on the BOM on the cardboard tape the film caps come taped on so they are easy to find later.

I have bins with all the other goodies I might need. Leds, pots, ics, knobs, sockets, jacks, switches, transistors, etc.

I throw all the parts in a marked ziplock with the board and BOM. I highlight the parts I don't have on the BOM and write them on my "parts needed list". When I get in the soldering mood I can whip out a bag, start placing parts and soldering. This is nice because I am rarely in the mood to search for parts when I am in the mood to solder.

Once the board is completed I throw it in the bag with all the other parts and order a box that I think will fit the build(aesthetically as well as size.) Usually, I have a box ready because I order extras. When the box arrives and I am in the mood to drill, the board and parts are all ready to go.

I probably have 15+ builds in bags either awaiting a few parts or completely ready once I have time to drill.

That all being said. I am getting married in June, buying a house, and remodeling it, so I have no time to build pedals. Seasons in life come and go, I'm afraid. I hope the "driving to her house time" can become the "building pedals time" once we are married and move in together.

I have one of these bad boys. Mine screams a high pitched wail of torture 90% of the time I plug her in. Probably needs new electro caps. The 10% of times it works, it sounds great. Congrats on regaining an old friend.

I repaired a carbon copy that had some fried resistors. No idea what caused it. I assume someone tried to hook it up to AC or a higher DC voltage. Anyway, the PCB was toast where the resistors were located, but with 10 minutes of tracing and some pictures from the internet I was able to reverse engineer the connections and get it working. Replacing the 1uf should be easy as long as you can see the traces. The pot should be replaceable and traceable as well.

If not, hit me up. I'd be glad to take it off your hands and have a shot at fixing it.

I'm in for one as well.

What size box is the board layout made for?

If you had various color options, common box sizes, and non-etched enclosure pricing comperable to PPP or Mammoth, I would be in to order some.

The main question I have is, what of us guys who suck at designing graphics? If you could supply some templates we could work with, I feel that would take most of the guess work out of it for me. I can handle copy and pasting into a template.

Forgive me if this is in the wrong spot.

I just picked up a Univox EC-80a - non-working - from ebay. The non-working part will hopefully get sorted out on my workbench soon, but to my real question.

I use delay when I play live, and I always need to have a tap-tempo on my delays. I have a couple that get set and left, but for versatility, I like tap tempo.

Here is my question: Have any of you seen a Taptation implemented for controlling a real tape delay?
Is there any way to calibrate the Taptation? I've read every document I can find, and I see mention of calibration, but I've not seen any instructions on how to do it.

Thanks gents.