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Messages - Mark_McQ

#1
You should be able to use a diagram for doing this type of switching with pickups. It's the same principle with the wiring.
#2
I found an ebay vendor in Hong Kong doing 50ml bottles for a few quid. Thinking of giving them a try to see what the quality is like.
#3
General Questions / Liquid rosin flux in the uk?
July 17, 2011, 12:35:33 PM
Anyone know a good supplier of this at a decent price?
Looking for something like the following link, but they don't ship outside the US:
http://tubedepot.com/ts-590-835-100ml.html
#4
Quote from: oldhousescott on July 17, 2011, 11:38:27 AM
Get some sockets with machine turned pins. They make better contact and will last longer.

I second that. I use those on all my builds. They're called precision sockets. Good for straightening bent legs too:
http://www.banzaimusic.com/8-pin-precision-socket.html
#5
You can get dual colour LED's that have 3 legs. Middle leg is a common anode, and you get a certain colour depending on which cathode is grounded out. By wiring the legs to the 3 pins on the 3pdt, you could use one LED to show the gain state.
#6
Ok, dodgy connection. Pedal fixed. I hate life. Nothing more to see here.  ;D
#7
Everything checks out. This pedal hates me.
#8
All the wiring is spot-on. It occured to me that maybe the on/off switch has a dead contact. When it switches to the on position, it's effectively moving the ground from the led from one side to the other. So it that contact is broke, it might explain this. I think it's multi-meter time.
#9
Noticed when I turn my Boneyard on, the led on the hi-gain footswitch goes off. I can still toggle between the normal and hi-gain, but the led only works if the pedal effect is bypassed. Anyone got a thought as to why it would do this? Pretty sure it worked fine bfore, and I can't think of any reason why it would do this. The wiring checks out, and everything is as the build docs.
#10
Open Discussion / Re: Wiring tricks
June 27, 2011, 05:15:38 AM
I flip my enclosure over, bolt the pots, footswitch and led holder onto the face with the shafts pointing inside the box, and then wire my board up that way. Then you can remove the whole assembly, flip the box back over, and place everything inside. Then you can wire up the i/o and dc jacks.
Obviously this only works on a setup with a symmetrical layout. 3 pots in an L-shape with the footswitch near the corner, for example, wouldn't really work this way.
#11
Quote from: madbean on May 20, 2011, 12:10:07 PM

It has a lamp, but it's not a Univibe.

Coal miners helmet?
#12
Tech Help - Projects Page / Re: Lin or log
April 26, 2011, 01:15:11 AM
I've had to resort to using Banzai in Germany.
Doctor Tweeks stocks some but not a huge range and mostly knurled shafts and pcb mount ones.
#13
Tech Help - Projects Page / Re: Lin or log
April 25, 2011, 09:02:16 AM
Ah, I see.
I mostly go with Alpha, which is probably why that never came up for me before.
#14
Tech Help - Projects Page / Re: Lin or log
April 25, 2011, 04:49:27 AM
Quote from: Liam on April 24, 2011, 04:23:30 PM
And when you buy here in the UK, it's the other way around.  A is lin, B is log.

Lesson learnt the hard way several times - I guess I'll have to declare myself as having a learning difficulty!

Liam

I've never came across that. Where do you source parts from?
#15
Tech Help - Projects Page / Re: Lin or log
April 24, 2011, 09:10:19 AM
A is Audio/Logarithm
B is Linear

And you'll occasionally see C which is Reverse Logarithm