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So I just build up the woodcutter and I'm going with a tele into a blackface style amp and with the compression over about 25% it turns into an overdrive pedal. Not too familiar with the circuit, but I took some voltage readings

J201 (in place of 2sk170 in buffer portion)
S 3.82
G 4.81
D 8.85


Q2 BC560C
C 8.25
B 8.25
E 8.85

Q3 BC550C
C 3.98
B 1.60
E 1.03

Q4 BC550C
C 3.22
B 0
E 0

Q5 BC550C
C 3.22
B 0
E 0

Regulator LM78L05
I 9.15
G 0
O 5.02

AD797
1 7.08
2 4.27
3 3.88
4 0
5 3.62
6 4.27
7 9.15
8 7.11

As far as the opto was concerned I wrapped my LDR and diffuse green LED in electrical tape. Build doc doesn't say whether to wrap or not...

Q2 seems a tad suspect but I'm not quite sure where to begin. Any help is much appreciated

Hey guys, not too sure about this one so I bring it to smarter brains than I. So I put together my friends board with a Voodoo Labs Pedal Power 2+. On the board he has a bunch of pedals including a klone I built him and a donner reverb pedal. The first donner reverb he had would make this noise whenever it was on- a high pitched squealing noise underneath everything no matter what the knobs were set to. He contacted the dealer and got shipped another one which we thought was good except with this one a squeal becomes apparent when both it and the klone are on but only then. I'm not super sure why this is happening as they are on isolated power supplies. The noise almost sounded like the klon charge pump oscillating however knob turning has no real effect on it. I tried changing charge pump IC's but the new one made it worse. Anyone have any ideas? Is it the reverb again?

This pedal seems a tad dark for my taste. I used the krankosaurus build doc and PCB. I've done some venturing into understanding pedals and circuits. From what I've read the box of rock has a big muff pi tone stack, which is a sort of balance between a lo pass filter (large value capacitor?) and a high pass filter (low value capacitor?). When comparing the schems of the krankosaurus and the box of rock they both use the same 47k 22nf combo for one filter while the krankosaurus uses 100nf and the other BOR schematics I'm seeing on websites uses a 10nf and both use an 82k resistor. Could this be the source of the darkness in my pedal? doesn't have the marshall upper mid bite until it's about 3/4 of the way up. I'd love to play with the tone stack calculator, however I have a mac and I couldn't find any that would work on my OS.

So I built the CTO v2 for a friend here http://www.guitarpcb.com/apps/webstore/products/show/3436319

And it sounds great..... unless the gain is anywhere except fully clockwise. I get a pretty nice fuzz tone with the gain on 10 but as soon as you move it to 9.8 the circuit completely cleans up and the gain knob doesn't really do too much from 0-9.9. I checked the sweep on the gain knob with an ohmeter and the resistance changes linearly so I'm not sure why I get this very nonlinear response.

Thoughts?

Anyone have a build doc for this? It's the one with the charge pump onboard for it. Can't seem to find one just a few build reports on here.

Nvm I found it with some digging! If anyone else starts looking for this it's here
https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B46z2J0FljLkeVpTMnVmeFJiU2s/edit?pli=1

I found this PCB that looks really interesting and like something I'd be interested in making however I really have no idea what it is. First though was a Rat but it has 6 transistors so maybe muff? I'm not really sure, but it looks fun. Anyone know what this thing is or where I can find a doc for it?

So this seems like it should be obvious but for some reason my 4:1 compressor LED is always on. Everything else works fine. Right now I have negative on PSU to neg and pos to pos.
If you number the 3pdt switch as
1 2 3
4 5 6
7 8 9
I have the G pad going to output jack sleeve and output sleeve going to lug 5 then I have the L pad going to 2 with effect in at 1 effect out at 3 input ring to 4 output ring to 6 and 7 and 9 jumpered. Its obviously being grounded in both switch positions somehow but I can't figure out why. The schematic shows the ground pad as general ground which goes to output sleeve and then middle lug, but somehow in both position LED neg has continuity with ground? Those are all the connections I have on this board. Thoughts?

Hey guys, been out of the game for a long time, but I've picked it back up with some free time and a lot more guitar playing. So Im really wanting to do a Box of Rock to round out my overdrive section. The thing is I love top mounted jacks, so is it possible to use a 125B enclosure with top mounted jacks (being oriented sideways) that wouldn't interfere with a pot mounted pcb? Also, since I'm here is there any other PCB to purchase for this besides the Tayda one? my google-fu couldn't pull up anything else really and I'm kind of done with vero at this point in my life.

Saw this on eBay http://www.ebay.com/itm/MN3008-Original-Panasonic-Matsushita-8P-DIP-IC-2-pcs-/291175702355?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item43cb6c9f53

Anyone have experience? They have a good seller rating and 13 dollars for 2 seems like a great deal.

Ok, so I've been a member here a while, but never really got around to posting any build reports. I have three, but two of the builds I gave to my friend the next day and didn't think about pictures so I'll ask him to send me pictures. So how fitting for my first build report to be a klone. It is the refractor from aionelectronics.com It is a great small PCB. I had originally tried a klone a while ago in a 1590BB, but it didn't end up working too well so I wanted to use the enclosure, hardware, pots, etc. to have another go. Bought the sunking board, but it turns out the drill template didn't fit my already drilled enclosure so I bought a refractor anticipating that I would use my BB but I had a blank 1590b laying around so I said what the heck.

Some notes: I ordered all my passives from Paul and he isn't mouser, nor does he claim to be, so for all the odd values I just rounded up to the nearest one. I ended up subbing a good amount of parts and doing the 'tone mod' in the sunking BOM and the fat switch (switches between 100nf and 150nf). When I finished there were 2 catastrophic errors (I exaggerate). First I plugged it in and nothing happened. I was angry. None of my builds ever work. Then I realize I accidentally swapped the +9v and ground wires at the dc jack. Good thing I caught that really fast. Then after I fixed that my bypass was horribly quiet and I got a tone of whine in the circuit. Luckily after about a minute I realize on my input jack I had switched tip and sleeve. After that it worked pretty great it was just a little dark for my tastes (from rounding up all the caps and the tone centralizer mod). So I went for the standard tone section and it has just the right amount of treble! First time with a fresnel lens and I love it, these are must use for me from now on!
The 'T' looks off but it's just the angle. I'm too OCD for that to happen. This build will also probably end up with my friend.

So I want to use this layout for a clean blend http://diy-layout.com/29 because it seems super simple, however it comes at the stipulation that the phase not be inverted. My friend wants this done with an orange squeezer. Schematic for that found here http://www.beavisaudio.com/schematics/Dan-Armstrong-Orange-Squeezer-Schematic.htm

So my question is does the orange squeezer invert the phase? And for future reference and bonus points how can I identify that for myself in the future?

So I know in 125B's you can put the jacks on the top and they will go over the pots, but if the pots are mounted the other way (under the board as in the pork barrel) would the jacks still fit above the PCB or does this not work?

Prymaxe Vintage just posted a video of the Real McCoy RMC5 wizard wah and it sounds AWESOME. Not too bassy, nice vocal midrange, no shrill top end, and a very nice sweep it sounds like. Can the weener wah do this? I know there's a few wah PCB's available, the weener sounds a little 'classic' from the demo I heard. Can it be modded to sound more like this https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wLrP-UdpVSs or is there a PCB that does this well?

So I've got a pedal in front of me and honestly, this is a lot of fun trying to degoop this. I've mostly been using manual methods of tiny scissors and fingernails which has worked fairly well, but I'm not sure how well this will do for the board. Any tips?

So I saw http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yImAn0iqyVs and I thought that infinite repeat mode was awesome as well as the echo and delay voices. I heard speculation at a stompbox reversing site that the echo may be a PT delay then the delay is maybe a BL chip. Anyway the main thing I'm interested in is that infinite repeat mode. It teeters on oscillation but stays in check and just sits under you as you play. Reminded me of when I would play a DMM with the longest delay time and a good amount of feedback. Anyone know how they accomplish this? Or the feedback switch? Heck I may have to just save and buy the thing.

I've tried searching the topic and the coolest one I found was at circuit salad but it was 60 bucks for 3 boards. Anyone know of any cool ringmods? I really like Randy's Revenge, but there's nothing floating around about it that I can tell.

Ever have one of those moments that doesn't feel real? Today I went to see Kings of Leon and Gary Clark Jr. at the United Center. We had really crappy tickets in the 300's the furthest section back which were still around 60 each. The Kings of Leon however have their guitar tech Nacho walk around crappy seating areas and give out tickets to people that recognize him. Walking to our seat my friend notices Nacho and we take some pictures with him and as we are about to walk away he hands each of use front row tickets and just tells us we have to be excited. We were in the literal front row for one of my favorite bands ever. They truly need to be seen live to appreciated. All in all the biggest stroke of luck of my life so far. Anyone have any similar experiences?

Anyone know how I could go about wiring an eldred cocked wah onto a push pull pot on my tele for the bridge pickup? After looking for an hour or so I finally understand the 3 way blade switch and the push pull pot, and that it basically throws the treble frequencies to ground with a 4700pf cap (I think).  Just now having a hard time imagining how the switching would work (P.S. you wouldn't want to see my hours of attempts at an effect order switcher until I finally just googled it).

So, I've seen amp builds do this, but not really pedals. On a standard volume pot would it be possible to take some wire and solder it from pin 1 to the body of the pot itself to ground it or would this not work/be unreliable?

Ok, so this is the Rebote 2.5 project. Problem is that no signal passes when effect is engaged. It was my friend's failed build that he wanted me to try and debug. Bypass signal is fine, I used an audio probe and got signal up until the TL072 output (pin 7 so just one half) and after that there is no signal, which is pretty early. I was asked to take voltages so here they are

TL072
1- 1.90
2- 1.94
3- 4.74
4- 0
5- 3.80
6- 1.32
7- 1.99
8- 9.56

PT2399
1- 1.69
2- 0.85
3- 0
4- 0
5- 0.86
6- 0.71
7- 1.58
8- 1.59
9- 0
10- 0
11- 0
12- 0
13- 0.1
14- 0.2
15- 0.85
16- 0.85

T78L05
Input 9.56
Gnd 0
Output 1.69