Topics

I am in the final stretch of assembling my Harbinger One. I have managed to fit the little filter PCB in, but it's a real PITA in a 1590BB Tall. I've read conflicting threads about the necessity for it. I'll be running the pedal on a 9V Onespot wall wart along with four or five other 9V effects. Any consensus out there? Some say the main PCB onboard filtering is sufficient, but I have to assume Madbean wouldn't have included it if it wasn't necessary.

I plan on using a Fender style amp jewel light for the rate indicator on my Harbinger One. I can get just the lens and ferrule on Ebay, or with the lamp holder attached. I went with a 1590BB "Tall" box, so I should have the room either way. Anybody done this? How did you mount the LED to light up the jewel?

I saw a vero board layout for an emulation of the dg-20 EXG and SPC tone controls someplace, lost track of it. I have an old set of EMG SA pickups, thought I might try my hand at a couple of vero boards. Do you think they would fit in a standard strat control cavity?8

On behalf of the Noob Contingent, I submit my crude attempt at a wiring diagram for the Harbinger One. I am using a 9V One Spot wall wart power supply, so I have populated the filter PCB and jumpered R54. I have deleted C22 and D1 per the build docs. I based this on the Madbean standard wiring diagrams, minus a battery snap. I'm unclear if it makes any difference which pins on the Chorus/Vibrato and Vintage/Modern switches are wired to the square pads on the PCB. I just showed the pin 1 wires to the SPD1 and SPD2 pads on the PCB to avoid the mess of wiring on the diagram. Please let me know where I screwed up, or better methods to wire this. Thanks!

I found an ancient (Acad R12) set of 2d stompbox pedal symbols and standard enclosure sizes on an old DIY Stompbox forum, anybody know anything more current? I work with Acad 2013, so if anyone can hook me up with a link to some Cad drawings for stompbox layout, much appreciated.

I have an image in my head for my Harbinger One enclosure, very 1950's-60s industrial clunky with jewel amp lights, big toggle switches, and screwed-on metal labels. All the metal stamping die sets I've seen have letters around 1/4" high (too big), and I'd need a press to imprint a box this thick anyway. I've see thin aluminum or stainless stock with embossed lettering on tags for valves or machinery. Anyone know how to find one of these gadgets, or a source for something similar?

I'm building the Harbinger One for 9V operation with a One Spot wall wart. Since it's 9V, can I use a standard battery snap connection and stereo input jack wired to the 9V power jack? I may never use the battery snap, but nice to have as an option. Would this damage anything in a dying battery scenario?

I always double check Ohm reading on resistors before soldering them in place. My cheap little Ratshack DMM measures small resisters just fine (220k, 500k, etc.), but I tried to check a 2M2 resistor last night, and the DMM just shows 1.0000, flashing on and off. Is my DMM borked, bad resistor, or is the auto-ranging not working somehow?

I'd like to use big old fashioned style toggle switches on my Harbinger build, all I can find with pcb mount lugs are the mini switches. Is there such thing as full size pcb mount switches, and if so, where to get them?

Noob Question:
How important is the tolerance on electrolytic caps? I'm ready to order all the parts from Mouser for my Harbinger One, the 10uf 25v caps are available only in 20% tolerance within the size range, lead spacing, etc. I had found some rated at 10%, but they are back- ordered. Does it really matter?

The standard madbean wiring diagrams show a current limiting resister between PCB and led, is that resistor not already incorporated onto the PCB.? Id like to locate the led towards the center of the box on my Harbinger, not right above the led solder pads.

Some of the builds have options where components are deleted for mods or different power voltages, etc. When a component is to be deleted off the PCB, do the pads for deleted  components need to be jumpered? Seems they would have to be to complete a signal path, but build docs don't mention it. Is this just assumption only a total noob would pose?

The Harbinger One BOM lists Q14 transistor as "J201", can't get a coherent hit on on that keyword in Mouser. Tried searching within Fairchild Semiconductors, got a "JFET N-Channel Transistor General Purpose" Mouser #512-MMBFJ201", but it doesn't look anything like the component symbol on the PCB, which looks like a standard cylindrical transistor with one flat side. Can anybody help me out on this one?

Bit of a noob question: Is the IC on the harbinger one board intended to be socketed, no mention of it in the build shopping list, is it just soldered to the PCB?

I was thinking of going for an old school look, big jewel glass amp style indicator lights, maybe big funky toggle switches. Is that likely to work in the 1590 enclosure recommended? Enough depth in the box for deeper switches?

I'd like to use glass "jewel" bulb covers over LED stomp status lights, like old amp lights. I've seen them for sale on e-bay, anybody know a good source? I think they come with bulb holders for incandescent bulbs, how would you modify for LED's? I was thinking i could just leave out the bulb holder and just let the wire leads from the LED down to PCB provide enough rigidity to hold the LED in place below the jewel glass cover. Suggestions?

Has anyone drawn up a wiring diagram for the noob contingent? Stomp and jack wiring layout and connections to PCB?  I've built a few BYOC  pedals, so I'm used to the idiot proof instructions. I built the Forumvibe successfully, but had a lot of trouble with the offboard power supply. I have an 18v wall wart powering it, rather build the 9v  version so I can use onespot. The forumvibe also lacks a flashing rate LED. Anyone built the forumvibe and harbinger? How do they compare?