Topics

I've got a PCB for a Tube Driver build already in process, but would like to mount the tube socket to a separate PCB.
Does Madbean sell the tube socket PCB (from the Archibald) separately?

Is it possible to mod the BSIAB II for less gain?
I plugged in one I built years ago (went on the shelf due to noise issues, and I haven't gotten around to rebuilding), and it sounded really REALLY good, but has way too much distortion.
I THINK I have all 2N5457's in it now, but wanted to know if using MPF102s in the first Minibooster stage would bring the gain down enough, or if I should replace Q5 with something of lesser gain.

OR is there a way to bypass the 2nd Minibooster altogether?

Just spitballing here, as I love the tone, but not the gain (or the accompanying noise).
Thx!

I picked up a couple of wah enclosures recently and will be using one for a Vox wah, but want to do a volume pedal out of the other.
Never really looked into them before, but the only active one I've found is the Anderton Volume De-Scratcher circuit.
Is that pretty much the one to build?

I want something that is always on (when I use it), meaning no on/off footswitch and as transparent of a buffer as possible.

Any suggestions?

Got the Sandstorm board last week and (while recovering from surgery this week) have just started looking over the topology, getting ready to build.
I noticed with the clipping, it has 1N914 (stock), as well as 3mm LEDs and BAT41 diodes.
Looking at the toggle on the schematic, though, it looks like the LEDs are on all the time, and you're either switching between 1N914 + LED, LED only and BAT41 + LED.

Is that accurate? Are the LEDs giving the circuit the boost in volume that it's been missing?
Or do the LEDs clip (significantly) on their own?

Trying to find out which DD version the Breen is based on - is it V2 or V3?

Thanks!

I've gotten spoiled with the long, fine-point of the 900M-T-I type solder tips that I've been using for pedal builds these last 8mos, but they are some of the shortest-lasting I've ever used.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07FNLQ7KN/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The tip/point starts degrading within a day of use; this is with soldering at intervals of about 10min at a time. Not using tinner (Weller rep said that dissolves the plating if used too much), but I am using the 'brass shavings' ball to clean the tip while working.

Can anyone recommend something identical (compatible Hakko model?) that would have better longevity?
I'm using an inexpensive soldering iron, with an adjustable temperature dial on the handle, and an inline on/off switch. I'm only using this for building pedals, occasional guitar maintenance and even less occasional amp-building. The soldering iron itself works great, it's just these tips that keep crapping out.

Option B would be to keep buying these cheap ones and toss them as they wear out; would rather have something that performs a bit better.
Thx!

Is the Collosalus gone for good, or will it ever get revamped/redesigned/re-released?

Thx!
- Buck

Sometimes I feel like I'm going a bit overboard with tolerances; I got several boxes of 1% metal film resistors from SmallBear a couple of years ago, and still feel the need to measure them to get the strictest tolerance in each value.

Is this overkill? Anyone else do this?

Anybody know of a reliable source for the MN3204 IC?
Littlediode (out of London) on ebay has them, but I'm not sure if they're just reselling Chinese fakes.

Any help would be appreciated - thx!
- Buck

Finally getting around to putting together a Klone - I've got a Sunking printed out on PnP Blue, ready to etch, but was some issue with that one?
i.e. does the Klon Siberia have any 'fixes', or is the 2010 one good to go?

Thanks
- Buck

Looking at the Boneyard schem:



In the tone section, is the 22K (R10) resistor part of the tone control, or is that something else?
I'm looking at replacing the tone control with the AMZ Presence control (for Big Muffs). Just curious what parts/sections I'll need to replace in the stock Boneyard circuit.

Thx
- Buck

Just wondering if there's any possibility for an MXR Micro Flanger via Madbean (i.e. a Mini Collosalus). Strip it down to just Rate & Depth.
I'm almost done with my 2015 Collosalus, but wouldn't mind something smaller with a similar sound & less controls on top.

Hey,
If I want to omit the filter toggle on the 2015 Current Lover, which pads would I need to jumper in order to use just the flanger mode?

Thanks,
- Buck

Considering building the now-discontinued Dig Dug and noticed the 2nd footswitch. I just wanted an on/off option, nothing else - do I leave those pads jumpered or open for the standard setting?

Thanks,
- Buck

Looking at putting together a Dig Dug and was looking at the original/discontinued PDF file.

(I may have asked this before)
In the wiring diagram, what is the 2nd footswitch for? It looks like it acts as a SPST/on-off, but not sure what it does.

Thanks,

I'm thinking of putting one of my Road Rages (9V+ to 15V+) in a standalone enclosure; basically two power jacks, one 9V (in), the other 15V (out).

When connecting the power cables, I get that the outer portions would go to the positive voltage on each connection, but what about the center (-)? Since that typically goes to ground, can these two center negatives connect even though the postives are different voltages?

thanks,
Buck

So I have a Meatball clone and the MB Sharkfin both on my bench, in 'build' status.
I was thinking about doing a Dig Dug, but would that be a little redundant, with sample/hold side of the Fin? (i.e. the automated step thing)

I'm using the Road Rage as an internal voltage doubler in a chorus pedal, but have a question about grounding.
From the DC jack, the 9V(+) goes to the corresponding pad on the RR, but does the (-) on the jack just go to ground?
Long story short, the LED in my chorus pedal is wired directly to the 9V+ / - on the DC jack. I'm getting popping when I switch the effect on/off. I'm wondering if it's because the LED is 9V, the chorus circuit sees 18V and they're all on the same ground.

Any ideas?
Thanks,
Buck

Is there a way to use just half the number of stages in a BBD? I was wondering if that's what designers are doing when they modify a unit (particularly flangers) to use an MN3007 (just guessing).

How is that done, exactly? I'm asking because I'm having problems finding a particular 512-stage IC for a new project and was wondering if I could get the same results by using a 1024-stage IC and halving the stages.

thx

Ok, any hints as to what this one is based on?