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I tried building a Pork Barrel a long time ago, and it didn't work, so I shelved it for awhile, and I'm trying to fix it again, but still not having any luck.

The problem I'm having is that the pedal works in bypass. I do get a clicking sound when the pedal is bypassed which changes as I move the rate knob. This seems odd to me as it goes away when I turn the pedal on, but I've checked over and over, and the wiring should be right. When I turn the pedal on though, there is no chorus, but my clean signal works fine. Once I flip the vibe switch though, the signal cuts out, so it's obviously a problem with the effected part of the circuit.

I've checked all the basic stupid things like if parts are in the correct direction, if their values are correct, etc. and everything appears good on that front. I found a thread where a guy had a similar problem, and once he bought a new 3007 his pedal started working properly. I bought my chips from Small Bear though, so I doubt that would be the problem. Is there any way to check and see if my chip is faulty without buying a new one? Anyone else have any suggestions for me?

Thanks!
Blake

So, I just got done putting together my Pork Barrel, and I'm having some issues. The pedal works fine in bypass, but when I engage the effect, I only get my dry signal, and no chorus. When I try to hit the vibe switch, the signal dies entirely. I saw that another forum member had a similar problem to this, and his trouble was caused by buying a faulty MN3007. I got all of my ICs from Small Bear though, so I'm thinking that's not likely to be the issue.

I checked the orientation of all my parts though, and everything appears to be correct, and I double/triple checked my wiring, and everything appears good on that front too. I didn't make any parts substitutions, but the one thing I did differently was that I didn't use any SPST switches for the mods. For the Deep and Wet mods I used a SPDT toggle switch, and I just used the top two lugs, and left the bottom lug empty. For the Vibe mod though, I used a DPDT footswitch with the top two lugs on the left connected for the vibe mod, and for the right three lugs, I connected a spot to ground in the middle, and then I had one lug of a dual-color LED on the top, and another lug of the dual-color LED attached to bottom. If I did that correctly (and I'm pretty sure I did), then I figured I could turn the vibe on and off with a footswitch, and the LED would indicated whether the vibe or chorus was engaged by changing the color of the LED.

Also, even though I'm not getting a chorus effect, I still get clock noise. I don't know if that is helpful in any way, but it's something that's happening. I'm hoping the clock noise will get better once I get the effect working, but I'm not hopeful.

Any suggestions for what to try though? Is there any way to test my chip to see if it's bad?

Thanks in advance.

So, I finally got a chance to A/B my Sunking with my real Klon tonight at band practice. The Sunking sounds great, and I'll probably end up selling my real Klon, but before I do that I want to try and fix an issue that I noticed with the Sunking. The treble on the Sunking seems more harsh and brittle, or thin, than it sounds on the real Klon. From what I remember, I don't think I had any parts substitutions. I had to have the tone knob on my Sunking around 9 or 10 o'clock though, whereas I normally keep it closer to noon on my Klon, and again, the character of the treble just was a bit less pleasing to my ears. What can I do to fix this? I used BAT41 diodes, but I socketed them, so I was thinking about swapping those out tomorrow with some 1n34a's. Any other suggestions for what to do though?

Thanks in advance!

USPS took their sweet time getting me my last batch of parts, but I got my Aquaboy finished this afternoon. Any idea how frustrating it is to have to wait almost two weeks for an IC socket though? I was not pleased! Haha. I got it biased as good as I'm going to be able to do without a scope, and it sounds great. Sounds very similar to my old DM-2, which is exactly what I was hoping for. I'm pleased. I would've liked a bit more delay time, but my DM-2 had the same problem, so I can't complain at all. This thing is definitely a keeper.

Here are the guts:




The enclosure looks lame right now since all my painting supplies are in Illinois. Here it is bare:



I'm eventually going to give it a blue sparkle paint job though so it'll match my Super Sonic.

So, I knocked this build out this afternoon. It was my first Madbean PCB, and I really like it. I can't wait to start up my DM-2.

The only problem is that the enclosure that worked for the pedal, I didn't really have a chance to paint. Eventually it will be gold, I swear! These graphics are not permanent. Haha.

Also, the wiring for the pots didn't turn out very great since I wanted my gain and volume knobs on the opposite sides from where they are on the board, so that they would match my real Klon. Oh well. As long as it works...

Hey!

I'm new to the forum, but I'm really excited to get started on building my Sunking. This is the first time I've ever sourced my own parts for a build, so I'm a bit confused about one thing. On the instructions for the Sunking it says that the electrolytic caps should be 25 volts. I'm just curious as to what happens if I use electrolytics that aren't 25 volts, because all of the ones I have are either lower or higher on the voltage scale. Is it going to hurt anything if I use caps that say they are only 16 volts, because most of my caps say they are 16 volts on the side? I really would prefer to use the parts I already have, if at all possible, but I just wanted to make sure I wouldn't be doing anything dangerous that could harm the pedal.

Basically, I was just wondering if using lower voltage caps would create a change in sound, or if there is a risk they would burn out or something.

Thanks in advance!