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Topics - dont-tase-me-bro

Pages: [1] 2
1
About to start this one.  I wasn't sure if it had tails or not when you disengage the effect, if the standard stereo wiring method is used.

Thanks,
Pat

2
Halfway done and just thought of this.

Thanks,
Pat

3
Putting away my last mouser order and noticed I ordered 10%, instead of 5% for 3n3.  Are 10% usable for pedals?

Thanks,
Pat

4
do you use the putty, or the one with the two tubes that you mix?

my doppleganger foot switches looked perfect, evenly spaced, a work of art, drew an immaculate template.  and placed them directly on top of the output jack.

5
Had to go to a local store to get a 510 ohm resistor, and they only had 1/2 watt.  (my mouser order had 510K due to sloppiness on my part).  This is for standard use in the Duplex Drive, no unusual power requirements.

Thanks,
Pat

6
attempting first enclosure with an actual finish, as opposed to bare, untouched metal with a label maker (which in retrospect is exponentially easier)

it took me around four hours, but I finally have a 1790 sanded flat and down to 1000 grit.  I'm not painting it, was going for clear finish and my liquid mercury knob labels

in your opinion,
1. decal on bare metal, then clear the whole thing?
2. clear coat the box, then label, the clear coat the whole thing again


In conclusion, odorless mineral spirits do indeed smell, and I should have tried something smaller to start with.

Thanks,
Pat

7
In an attempt to retire my old school label embosser, I bought some small bear inkjet waterslide paper. 

Printed image, applied clear coat, and the letters and waveforms began to go away.  I was using Minwax Polyacrylic  water based spray.   Too much clear coat?  I did it twice, same results.

Thanks,
Pat 

8
Noob here.  On a 9mm pot, do you bend out that tab and mount the pot flush, or leave it as is, and have the pot sit up a bit?

Thanks,
Pat

9
Tech Help - Projects Page / Doppleganger 2.1d
« on: January 03, 2015, 04:37:43 PM »
Guitar goes through but the there is no effect.  The LEDs with the LDR's do not lite up, I have not yet installed the other three status LED's.  I took voltage readings on all ICs, where it is labeled "crazy" below, the meter was jumping all over the place.  It does pass a clean signal.

I also included a picture of the two black plastic jacks.  I had never used them before, but think they are done right.

IC 1

1  4.06
2  4.06
3  4.06
4  8.14
5  crazy
6  crazy
7  crazy
8  crazy
9  crazy
10  crazy
11  0.3 mv
12  crazy
13  crazy
14  crazy


IC 2

1  crazy
2  crazy
3  crazy
4  0.3 mv
5  crazy
6  crazy
7  crazy
8  8.14v

IC 3

1  3.80
2  3.78
3  3.78
4  7.61
5  3.77
6  3.81
7  3.80
8  3.80
9  3.78
10  3.78
11  0.3 mv
12  3.76
13  3.81
14  3.81

IC4
1  3.81
2  3.81
3  2.86
4  0.2 mv
5  3.8
6  3.8
7  3.81
8  7.61

Thanks,
Pat

10
This may or may not be of use to some of you.  This is a spreadsheet to track inventory - it is tabbed at the bottom for resistors, film caps, electors, diodes, and ceramic caps.

I created this awhile ago for my own use.  It is somewhat crude, but it works.

BOM's going in vertically, one pedal per column.  There are formulas on the left that total them up, and deduct from what you have in stock. To keep the inventory straight, you have to keep adding your latest delivery to the total from the old order.  For example, if you had ten 100k resistors and used them a month ago, but now your latest group needs another ten, when that comes in, you don't have ten in stock, you don't have twenty.  Basically, it totals however many you ever ordered, because it deducts however many you ever needed.  As I said, it's crude, but it works. 

The formulas total what you need, when you have negative quantities it shows with a negative sign.

The part numbers are not absolute, just what I've ordered in the past.  I recommend you review these if you plan on using it, as I patched this together from stuff  I read on the forum, and I don't fully know what I'm doing.  The Panasonic ones were EOL and may be gone.  The ceramic ones are not multi layer, they are the normal beige disc ones.

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1_tBdpDd9QrVPdgfhoE-YtXwZAX2bwc88u0yFFF6fQ2g/edit?usp=sharing

11
Tech Help - Projects Page / PN2222A ok to sub for 2N2222?
« on: December 06, 2014, 09:13:52 PM »

12
Tech Help - Projects Page / JRC4558D at Mouser - is this it?
« on: November 23, 2014, 02:50:02 PM »
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/NJR/NJM4558D/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMtCHixnSjNA6DRIUwv2n8oLsLD8oZOhUjU%3d

Is that it?  I think it is, but Mouser presents many opportunities to be incorrect.

Thanks,
Pat

13
Good evening, or morning/day, depending on your time zone.

Noob here.  If there were a diode that came in 10 different varieties, which are the diode number, and then slash 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 14 and 18, which one is good for standard pedal usage? Looking at the spec sheet, it corresponds to voltage.  My noobness thinks 9 would be the answer, but I get messed up when I go beyond the normal bill of materials.  I have attached a screen shot.

Thanks,
Pat

14
Tech Help - Projects Page / 15v Aquaboy Deluxe - will 25v caps work?
« on: November 07, 2014, 03:02:35 PM »
I was going to do this at 15v, and I just got around to pulling caps out of the boxes, and realized most of my stock is 25v.  Will that work?  I had seen the suggestion about being double the operating voltage and wasn't sure.

Thanks,
Pat

15
http://alltransistors.com/transistor.php?transistor=36072

This indicates that the maximum emitter-base voltage (Ueb) is 3v.  I read some technical literature that I somewhat understood, and it seemed to be ok.  Then I read something else which made me second guess my noobness. 

Thanks,
Pat

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