Topics

I haven't built in a while and looking through some old stock. At some point I had bought 2 SAD1024 as working on ebay but never had a way to test them. I also have a broken mxr stereo chorus pedal with a SAD512 in it. I'd like to get some value from these. How can I get them tested and is it necessary?

This turned out better than expected. Made a couple mistakes with the LED... first, wired 2 in series (rate indicator and bypass in one) So I think because they are in series they spend more time off than on. To try to fix this problem I thought that I could just half the resistor that is in series by paralleling another 1k... not only did this not work but it screwed up the first LED so it barely turns on, so now she only has one flashing eye... they are glued to the enclosure so we'll see if I ever get around to fixing them. I have yet to try it at 12v but I hope to do that soon. Anyway, here it is.



My standard, somewhat messy guts.

and one eye lit up

So I had one of the long thin looper boxes and decided to put the tapanator and accompanying effects in it as I'd never built anything in one of those and it sort of screams for a combo. I'm not sure it's the most user friendly setup but I like. Lots of room in the box. For the trem and wah I made switchable so that I can have all three in a combo pedal with the ability to control an external effect, either/or type situation obviously. The only glitch with this setup is that if the trem isn't bypassed it will mute everything when the lfo is not connected to it as the led goes dark. Not a big deal. I had some trouble with the phaser though I think part of it was I didn't have the trimmer in the right position. I got it mostly working but the feedback control seems a bit off. Anyway, really cool effect! guts are a bit chaotic but functional.

I recently threw these two together. The big game fuzz is one of flanagan's fuzzlewump pcbs and the other one is something from fuzzdog which I don't remember. If anyone really likes the indicator led on that pedal send me a pm. I have a bunch of them. This is about as clean as the guts get on my builds...

Is this the correct style for the two rotaries in the dig dug 2? THe link in the build doc just goes to mouser search page.
http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=SR1712F-0108-20F0A-N9-N-027virtualkey14860000virtualkey105-SR1712F-18NS

Built this a few weeks ago but just now getting around to posting the build report. Really nice OD with a wide range of toans!

I built a 3 in 1 with the tapanator and wah trem and phaser. Everything is running smoothly except the phaser. Maybe I'm just expecting something different but the phaser doesn't sound very phasey at most settings (especially compared to some demos I've heard of it), it sounds more like a tremolo though at some settings there is some lighter phase so I'm thinking all the stages maybe aren't working correctly? The other thing is the feedback pot doesn't intensify the effect much it just adds more noise (more noise I expect but also to alter the effect more). I've triple checked parts values and the soldering and replaced IC2 but nothing is really changing. I've poked around with an audio probe but I haven't found a smoking gun. I used the recommended ldrs from small bear and its in an enclosure so light pollution shouldn't be an issue. Anything advise here is appreciated. Here are the voltages
IC 1
1 4.5
2 4.5
3 4
4 0
5 4.5
6 4.5
7 4.3~4.7
8 8.85

ic2
1 4.43~4.47
2 4.5
3 4.5
4 0
5 4.5
6 5~5.5
7 4.8~5
8 8.85

ic3
1 4.5~4.7
2 4.55
3 4.5
4 0
5 4.5
6 4.8~5
7 4.8~5
8 8.85

And photos...

At first I thought I would just add the out portion of the circuit to try out with the taptation, manual control, or build an lfo box but I decided... features are nice! So I perfed the detune circuit from the multiplex echo. The toggle switch allows you to turn the detune led off when no external is connected to give the longest possible delay times. If I had to do it over I would play with it a bit more to make the led dim a tiny bit faster and go bright a bit slower. If I ever get around to learning to layout pcbs I imagine a tweakable version of the detune circuit will be one of the first I do. I just used a red LED and tayda ldr which gives nice results! a bit shimmery on the up tune and dark on the down. I went with a latching stomp for the detune so that it could also effectively toggle between two different lengths of delay.



The modding caused a bit of a spaghetti mess...

Especially when you learn this after soldering them into an opto bypass pcb... I mean, delay is pretty cool on a momentary switch but... not what I was going for.

I went all out for this one and I love everything about it! The first half is a cardinal tremolo which I believe I received from Josh as a pif last Christmas! Thanks! Sounds great, if you're thinking about it stop thinking and build one already! haha. The second half is a tenebrion reverb. The enclosure is a steel enclosure I got a while ago I think on ebay but don't ask me where because I don't remember. Anyway the steel was a pain to drill especially for the jewel lights and foot switches but... totally worth it. I even specially ordered knobs for this bad boy. I used optical switching on the footswitch and the cardinal indicator is also a rate indicator.

I decided I need a headphone amp though I'm not sure I'll settle on this one, at least I have something now. The pcb is from fuzzdog. A bit of a tight squeeze in a 1590LB I don't know how people manage to cram full pedals in these...I tried to stamp the leaf of a clover on it though I haven't quite figured out how to get it to come out. Anyway, you can kinda see it.

Continuing my quest of building all 1590g boards not in 1590g boxes! So this time I figured I would go for top mount jacks in a 1590B. Worked perfectly for that!

Continuing my theme of dual builds. So the idea for this was a beginning or possibly end of the chain box. So it's the bloviator and afterlife compressor (my favorite compressor, I've built 2 or 3) Again used alcohol inks. I need to change the knobs on the right side for green knobs at some point but I don't have any green knurled knobs at the moment. The status LED is an RGB led that only uses the GB portions. blue for the blue side, green for the green side. Nice sounding box for clean tones or to juice or shape an overdrive!!! I went with the offset knobs because I thought it looked unique and it happened to be utilitarian as I had already built the bloviator using a daughterboard I made from perf so the pots were locked at the top of the board.

I like making dual effects lately and you can't go wrong with an envelope filter and OD! Add in an order switch and baby you got a stew goin! These sound great together! Also, I'm loving octagons for combos I might switch over to purely octagon builds once I deplete my enclosure stock. The finish is the same deal as my last build, alcohol inks with a sticker and stamped on lettering. Props to Brian on the 1590g boards, so far I'm loving all I've built. I also like building them into not 1590g enclosures haha. Great for duals for sure!

I've had this sitting around half finished for a while so I finally decided to decorate the box and finish it! Great delay, nice work lectricfx crew! I used a grind customs modulation board and just put the switch internal. I prefer the sin wave as the square modulation gets crazy real fast. The enclosure is all done with alcohol inks and then I slapped on a sticker I brought back from Mexico that I got in a zapatista store which I bought for the purpose of decorating a pedal. I love alcohol inks, easy to apply, and can look great. I think this is my favorite alcohol ink finish I've done yet.

These projects have been sitting around half done for maybe a year or more so I'm happy to have them completed!
The first one goes like this SHO (with preset gain)>Rat>musket fuzz. This is a monster pedal! I love it, I don't know why I didn't finish it sooner as I remember loving the first one I sent off to Dan. I think part of the reason was all the off board wiring, well, I found some ribbon wire with four wires attached, IMO much simpler, plus it's rigid so the board stays in place!



The second is I think my 3rd build of parasitstudios 0415 guitar synth. Again a dminner etch this time in an overly large box. At first I was stumped as to why I wasn't getting any sound out of it. So I decided to do some troubleshooting. As soon as I started taking voltages on the CD4069 I noticed it was moving a bit. I had forgotten to solder it in... doh. so Once that was fixed it fired right up!

So I'm going to be in Seattle from the 29th of Nov through 4th of December. I've never been there before and looking for suggestions for things to do beyond the normal tourist stuff. I'd also be open to meeting up with any local forumites as well!

The new update of the kraken doc no longer has the layout for the etched board. There is a link for the older dock but it's not working for me. In the doc, it just shows up as text instead of a link.

Do you think it would be worth it to build a wigl with ability to connect to the tapanator or would it mostly cover the same ground as the phaser/tremolo designed for the tapanator?

What can I say? I've built 4 or 5 multiplexes now and everytime I build one someone wants to give me money for it so... here's another one! I haven't built much this year as I moved to the state of Chiapas in Mexico in January (any other builders on the forum in Mexico?). I brought some building supplies with me and I've just found the motivation to build. Anyone familiar with Chiapas (and especially San Cristobal de las casas) knows this is where the Zapatista uprising took place in 1994. These days it is a bit of a tourist draw and there are several Zapatista tiendas with hand made art, crafts, and clothing from the zapatista villages. I found some cool stickers and they are almost perfect size for 1590bb and 125a enclosures, which is perfect since I don't have my usual finishing supplies with me. So, here it is:


I'm still experimenting with vactrol combos.