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Built Delyk's horizontal version of Drolo's twin peaks circuit. Really cool pedal, sounds great!

This is probably my 50+ pedal built, but have previously never done any artwork or labeling on my pedals. I learned how to use inkscape and leveraged some artwork from others that have built this pedal. I tried printing on clear adhesive paper, but when I applied it to a sanded aluminum enclosure there was a bunch of air underneath. I could never get it to lay as a waterslide might and it looked horrible so I abandoned that idea. I ended up sending my art work to PPP and had them brush, paint, and UV print the graphic. Sort of costly, but turned out great.

The tap tempo led is not as bright as I would like, but it's usable. Might try and tweak it at some point.

I put DJN Pedals on the enclosure because it's my initials and thought it would be fun. I am not trying to take credit for this circuit at all. This is just for my personal use, will not build more or ever sell any, just thought it would fun to put something on there to personalize it.




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I'm thinking about doing my first multi using the 1590G boards.

How many circuits can be powered off one onespot?

Any reason for concern, or just load up with as many as I want?

Very cool pedal. Great layout by Brejna, worked on the first try. I wanted to add graphics or labels, but have never done it before, some day I'll give that a shot.



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First build of 2016. MN3005 / MN3001 running at 15v via the Madbean road rage board.  I got very lucky the road rage fit as I didn't really plan for it when drilling. Great sounding pedal, thankful Madbean had this project and adaptation of the old DM-2 circuit. Still working on the rate indicator being a bit more dynamic visually. The 15v basically flooded the LED with brightness and have not been able to tweak the resistors to get it to function visually like it did at 9v.  But other than that, sounds really great!


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I built the Aquaboy DX (MN3005 with MN3101) and recently added add Road Rage PCB to give it a regulated 15v.  I made the suggested 15v changes from the build doc; R50 and R51 at 8k2, R13 and R14 at 36k. 

Once calibrated for 15v the pedal sounds really great, however D4 (rate indicator of the LFO) is way less acurate and seems to be almost always on, with just slight changes in brightness.  Note: at 9v's D4 was very accurate and would clearly flash on and off with the rate of the LFO.

Has anyone encountered this or know how to potentially fix.  I don't think I need to post all my voltages for this, but if necessary I will.

Thank you!

Dan

I'm building the Big Muff Pharo from this schematic which shows .047uf coupling caps. I realized after I built it that to be more like the blackout effectors pharoah I need to change them to .47uf caps.  I ordered some from mouser (Epcos box film) but the shipping was delayed.  I wanted to ask the group what they thought about using .47uf multilayer ceramics (NTE) from my local electronics store? Should I wait for the mouser order or just pop these in?


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I built the dirtbaby today and wanted to test it before I boxed it up.  I tried to use chromesphere's diagram by soldering some leads and using alligator clips. I soldered a lead to the tip input, tip output, and 9v + and 9v -. I clipped it all up based on the diagram below, but it just made a buzzing sound.

Do I need to solder in the 3pdt switch in order to test the dirtbaby? Also I haven't added the spdt switch yet because I ordered solder lug by accident. I thought it might work without it?


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Built the Vapor Ray that Rullywow recently showed us on this forum. I built it at the same time I built the Madbean Moodring, and these two pedals go great together.


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Here is my Madbean Moodring. Really cool reverb, definitely diggin it!




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I'm about to build the moodring and have a question about the two 3mm red LEDs.  I have clear red 3mm LEDs but not 3mm red diffused. Does that matter?

Thanks!

Dan


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Finished the Kingslayer 2. I really like it as a clean boost! I learned a couple things during this build, but the main thing was I should probably take my time when punching for my holes. The drilling job I did is definitely a bit off with the switches and led, but oh well.

I can't believe how loud the kingslayer is!!! Why does it need to be that loud? It's soooooo loud haha. I think unity for me is with the volume at 9 o'clock with minimal gain. If I crank the gain I have to turn the volume to just a speck above off.

I also have the swoosh hiss whistling thing when the gain is all the way off. I don't mind it because I like having the gain up just a bit, which gets rid of it.  I find as you raise the gain past 9 o'clock the sound gets a bit honky and lots of high end loss. I think that's just the nature of the circuit. I checked to see if my klon clones do the same thing and they seem to.

To fix the whistling I'm going to order the 074 chip. I read through the forums and that seemed to help.

The buffer is great on this pedal! Is the buffer a bit different than the klon buffer, sounds better for some reason, better highs is what I'm hearing, but maybe it's the exact same haha.



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Does this make sense? I've been getting led switch pops when using blue and green LEDs, but when I switch them out for 5mm red diffused LEDs it goes away? I know different colors have different forward voltages, perhaps that's why. Has this happened to anyone else?

Thanks,

Dan


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Built my second Rullywow QoB pedal for a second rig. I really like the 18v/9v jumper option. I still really want to build the MB 8ball also but need to get the the moodring and dirtbaby I just ordered for finished first. I popped one of the LEDs with the trim pot so I have to fix that today, but other than that good to go. I've been working on getting my wiring neater and am pleased with how this one came out. Using solid core has made wiring a lot easier. Also I feel it's less likely to break. I was using stranded and after a while of having the wires they seemed to have gotten real hard, almost stale, and break easily. I'm going to stick with solid core for a while from here on out.


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I'm short (2) 1uf film caps for the kingslayer, just an oversight when ordering.

Could I substitute with a nonpolarized electro? I went to Frys and the film 1uf's they had were 200+ volts and massive so I grabbed some nonpolarized electros, but don't want to use them if it will affect the quality of the circuit


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I built the nucleon superfuzz over the weekend, first build of 2015. It sounds great, and I learned a lot about silicone transistor matching. Right now q4 and q5 are at a hfe of 590 and 600, so I guess that's a bit high, but they are socketed so I can change them later.  I did get a switch pop when activating. I tried alligator clipping a pull down resistor, but it didn't help. I think it's the switch so I'm going to have to replace it, which sucks because this is my cleanest wiring job to date. And I know, rock it before you box it, but I never have (because I don't know how) and am impatient. This is my 18th build and have been able to get everything else to work, but should probably look into a testing rig.  I think I might add a optical click less to try and fix the pop. Also I had originally ordered cream fender cupcake knobs, but one didn't fit so I hit it with a rubber mallet and it cracked, haha oops



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I received a SMD Cornish Buffer from Aballen and just put it together today.  I was a bit worried about fitting it all in to a 1590lb, but was able to do it.  This was my first time using a 3mm waterclear led. I wasn't sure what resistor to go with so just used a 4.7k and am happy with the brightness. Thanks again Aballen for the PIF!




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Built the Multiplex and really like it! This was my first time using solid core wires, but wasn't able to make it really clean. My only regret is the the 2 LEDs aren't centered well, but I realized that after drilling, oops.  There is a pop between the binson echorec mode and the Re-201 mode, but I watched a bunch of demos on you tube and they all seem to do that.

I really like the Binson mode and how you get a really lofi type analog delay. Pretty happy with my first delay build!




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Here is my Darkhorse Duplex Drive, although I can't take full credit because I bought the board pre populated from this forum.  It was a tight fit, barely made it.


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Here is my Madbean Honeydripper build. I did pretty much all the mods, but this thing was so loud with a 300k resistor in R5, that I changed it to 100k. It still is above unity with the 100k. I accidentally scratched the top tightening one of the lugs, oh well


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I just received all my components to build the Madbean Honeydripper. In the build doc is suggested swapping the C2 2n2 cap "to a smaller value for a brighter sound. My preference here is a 560pF Silver Mica cap."

I had difficulty sourcing one but thought I had found one on mouser that would work. Anyways when I received the parts the 560pf mica cap is a bit large. I can make it work but wanted to get the forums thoughts before committing.

Here is a picture, can someone let me know if it's okay to use this or if I should source a different part?



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