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Hi,
Could I solders a 3.3uf cap in parallel with a box film cap 680N to get 4uf? 

or do like Brian suggests in docs to get 4.3uf?  Does 4.7uf, 4.3uf, 4uf really make a difference in wah sound?
Thanks for the help.  Just trying to see if I can achieve this from tayda parts.

Can anyone tell me if any of this is worthwhile?  I found them at a junk sale.

A few axial caps say Sprague Vitamin Q,

the top hat or flying saucer transistors have no printing on them at all (hoping they are germanium fuzz face goodness) NEED HELP IDENTIFYING THESE

and the bowl of axial caps are greasy and mostly brown or covered in wire with no printing on them either.

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Just thinking...

I was thinking about putting two effects in the same box with two switches like usual BUT, get this, they have the same pot values.

can two boards share the same pots??

I was thinking of two ODs like the Black 65 and Tweed 57 that have the same pot values.  Could I hook them each up to separate switches and they share same 5 pots? and then have a dual fender in a box effect.

or will it affect resistance or something I haven't thought of...

Just another CB RAH but I got inspired looking at some Chinese pottery in the Toronto Royal Ontario Museum and since Jimmy Page wore those Dragon outfits why not paint a RAH like a porcelain dragon pottery.

I want to put two effects in the same enclosure. 

How can I wire an RGB LED  using madbean's wiring layout  so that I have one color for each effect and another color when they are both on?

This is the LED I was looking at (Common cathode, three anodes)http://www.taydaelectronics.com/leds/round-leds/rgb-led-5mm.html

HI

I am a noob learning as I go and appreciate any assistance.

I had a Neutrino that had no power to the board.  I bumped my mutimeter into both positive lugs of the DC jack and it fired up.  I soldered a jumper to the two + lugs of the dc jack:  the battery snap and the dc power and now it works fine.

What did I do?  Why did it not work before and now work with a jumper?

15% off tayda for next 4 hours

Coupon code from facebook:  171881

Saved me shipping.

BTW starting building a bunch of stuff and I'm looking forward to a vero catalinbread RAH (sorry bean) and will let the people looking for the Jimmy Page sound know how it sounds when I finish

Bought an older crybaby 535Q for $20 to build a weener wah.  Turns out the pedal sounds ok after i cleaned out all the cat hair.  Its the older version with two batteries that runs at 18 volts.

could I install a roadrage board to run it at 18volts (should be easy right?)

or

leave it like it is and buy an 18 volt adapter?

any advice would be helpful

Hi,
Looking at the Timmy schematic is D1-D7 all the same 1N4001 or are they different?
Thanks
Steve

Shopping at Lowe's hardware store I came across a product called "liquid electrical tape".

What do you guys think about using this to paint the back of finished PCB boards to prevent shorts with anything it touches?

Is this a good idea? if so, how about the pot connections and other things too?

here's the product: http://www.plastidip.com/home_solutions/Liquid_Tape_-_Electrical_Insulation

for the LEds on the board: is the square pad for the anode + long leg
or is it for the cathode - short leg, fat part inside the red?

Got my boneyard working but not sure if these are placed right. (only the one left LED lights when I play)

what is the VB+ on the neutrino schematic?

I desoldered some wrong parts on mine, lost the pads, and now am soldering points directly together and  it doesn't work so I'm debugging with an audio probe but don't recognize this symbol.

Thanks for any help or advice in how to debug with an audio probe and schematic.

Hi everyone, thanks for the build reports guts pictures they really helped me build this.  And it works!! Well not the first time.  I found I omitted a jumper on the switch.  Only thing I wonder about is I screwed up my decimals and got .022uf caps (the huge blue ones) instead of .22uf.   Is it a big difference?