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I built the Bandwrecker, it's bonkers and I love it! I would ideally like to somehow have the opto lfo section foot switchable so that in one position it functions as intended with the opto controlling the lfo via the rate pot, and have the other position on the switch go to an ldr that is visible through the top of the pedal... So that it can be controlled with my foot, like a probe wah. I can't seem to wrap my head around how this could be accomplished. Does anyone know if it's possible, and if so, how to implement it? Muchas gracias to anyone who chimes in.

I've just finished the Double Flush. Everything is working just fine, except I noticed that as I turn the Rate pot down CCW, it makes the LEDs stay lit all the way and all sound cuts out just before totally CCW. If I remove the 9v power wire and put it back, I'm in business again... Until I turn that Rate knob back down. I've tried a few different TL062s and a couple of different B50k Rate pots and a couple of different vactrols, same results. Any ideas what could be causing this behavior? This is a really nice tremolo, hopefully I can get it to stop doung the lock up thing.

Just built this, and I love it! I didn't do any mods to this one. I have a second one on the bench for experimentation, but I wanted to build one stock first. Thanks to Timko for sharing the drill template.

I built the BL3208 version of the Aquaboy. It works, but it isn't really biasing nicely. It could totally be the chips I bought off eBay (Definitely not coming from a trusted source, hahaha). I also ended up using the B version of the BL3208s, so I made little daughterboards for 'em. The clock chip is from Small Bear, it works perfectly. All components were tested beforehand.

I'll mess with it some more at another sitting. When my new multimeter arrives, I'll get the voltages written down. Maybe with some tweaking and reliable chips this will turn out to be box-worthy. 

Greetings,

I built the Snarkdoodle and it fired right up.  This is a really great-sounding overdrive. I think I have the perfect box for it, too. Thanks for the layout, Brian!

I'm out of work on temporary disability. I'm supposed to stay off my feet, so what better thing to do than finish up some of the myriad of un-finished projects I have on my desk?

First is a Sonic Titan in a 1590b enclosure. I just love the D*A*M circuits. The PCB was etched by me, storyboardist layout (over at http://effectslayouts.blogspot.com). The enclosure was done by my wife. She used india inks on this one. I think it came out fantastic. One of the inks she used is sparkly, I tried to show it with the flash photo below, but it looks sooooo much better in person. Wifey now has a stack of blank enclosures on her desk, waiting for some love. 

Next is an Echopathetic in a Hammond 1590b enclosure. I usually don't spend the extra dough to get actual Hammond brand enclosures. I have to say, the Hammond was easier to work with in a lot of ways. For example, on this enclosure I used india ink to paint the pedal with... On the non-Hammond enclosures I tried to paint with the ink, it would streak all over the place and not stay put on the surface no matter how much I prepped the enclosure first. All I did was use some steel wool to prep the Hammond enclosure, and the ink went on beautifully. The drilling was smoother, too. Worth the extra money, IMO. I did the lettering with those Posca markers that Paul of DIYguitarpedals.com suggested. They're great.

Anyway, the Echopathetic circuit was designed by allesz. I etched the PCB from the storyboardist layout. Most folks don't seem to think this effect is worth boxing, but I absolutely love it on guitar. I had the BBD chips, so why not?

The LM386-based 9v amp circuit bug has bitten me HARD! I built the Noisy Cricket and the RunOffGroove.com Ruby. Definitely preferred the sound of the Ruby, so I built a few.

I built this Ruby into a Smith-Corona Mail Call enclosure. It's made of Bakelite and it's really cool-looking. I was able to re-purpose most of the existing hardware, including the Pioneer 'lil speaker inside (of course it has an out jack for plugging into a real speaker as well) and the inset potentiometer wheel. I used cloth-covered wire & some Russian paper-in-oil capacitors for the Ruby circuit, just for fun. Lastly, I added a simple Rub-A-Dub reverb just because I personally like built-in reverb on my amps. I didn't bother with a battery snap cuz I figured the Reverb would drain it pretty quickly. I don't use batteries anyway. This is perfect for city apartment rocking. 

This enclosure was another one I got in the PIF from Luke. It was originally school bus yellow, with a ton of holes drilled into it. It sat on my desk for months. I finally decided I was going to take on the challenge of putting something in the enclosure so it wouldn't go to waste.

Here is the final product. It's a stock ROG Tri Vibe. My wife did the artwork on the sides. I wish I had a gut shot, but it wouldn't show much anyway. The PCB was rather large, so it covers all my work. Anyway, I'm happy to have finally made something pretty out of that enclosure.

I received a few enclosures from Luke51411 in a PIF a while back. There were some odd holes drilled in them, so I had to get creative and it was a really fun experience. Here are two things I made with them:

A Harmonic Percolator/Sardonic Albinator clone. I made it so it could be either an HP or a SA, or any variation of the two via the tone switches. It has a 2N404a transistor in it, along with a 2N1169 (it just sounded better to my ears than the 2N3565, so I switched it out). The diodes are BAT41s and black glass Russian 1N695s. I made the LED speckled like the enclosure.

A Noisy Cricket amp. Nothing special about it, just stock. I like these little LM386-based amps. I live in an apartment building where the neighbors are super-fussy about noise, so these are great to have around.

Thanks again, Luke!

I etched and built the Horndog. Weirdest thing is that the effect only works when I touch the side of R6 (100k) that connects to pin 3 of IC2 with my finger. 

Granted, I really am a hack when it comes to understanding this stuff... But it would be great to know what I can connect to make it work. I should point out that the effect works perfectly when I touch it in that one spot. I'm getting a nice sweep, even with a 1MB pot. Anyone have any ideas about where a connection needs to be made? I've checked my solder points around there and I have continuity all around. I'm stumped but this has been really fun to work on.

Greetings everyone,

It appears that the seller I've been buying Copper Clad Laminate Board from on eBay (abcfab) is away until July. Can anyone recommend another vendor to buy from?

Thanks!