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Hi,

I notice the project documents for the Karate Chop are still based on the Slap Chop.  On the bottom right of the circuit I've got a C14, which doesn't appear on the schematic or parts list for the project:

http://www.madbeanpedals.com/projects/images/slideshow/karateshop.jpg

As far as I can trace it's just sitting there in parallel with C13, waiting for me to fill the gap if I need extra filtering on the 9V supply.  Please let me know if my assumption is reasonable or idiotic!

Liam

Hi,

Just finished a build of a Deadringer.  Is the wiring guide for the fabbed version correct on the Boost LED?  I've managed to confuse myself a fair bit looking at the schematic.  It does appear with my build that the Boost control is active when the LED is off, and inactive when it's on.  I've built it as per the wiring guide with very little in the way of subs (470K for 500K and 22K for 25K for Drive and Tone pots).

Aside from that everything seems to function as it should.

Thanks

Liam

Just finished my first Sunking build.  I'll start by saying what a great pedal this is, everything worked straight off, nice straight forward build, and it sounds fantastic.  Very mellow and warm, excellent clean booster with loads of headroom and gain, and a really smooth yet clear sounding overdrive.  I think I'm using 1n34a diodes, but it's been that long they've been in the parts bin I honestly can't remember.  Late 90s small signal Ge, I picked a pair that held off about 2.7 volts as they are all over the place.  The quality of the distorted sound is lovely, so not messing with that bit yet anyway.  Got loads of Ge diodes to try when the time comes.

I've got a couple of things I'd like to try to improve on the effect.  I'll start with the subs I used for parts I didn't have or couldn't readily find:

C5 - 0.47 uF, C7 - 0.1 uF, C13 - 33 nF, C15 - 3n3.  And foolishly enough I've got a 13 volt zener in D3 that needs changing for a lower value before I run it on a power supply.  It was what I had.

Things I'd like to improve if possible: 

The gain control gets very sensitive just at the top of its travel.  I could almost consider running it back to front, as the bit I want to use is probably between 80 and 100% of full travel.  Is this a common problem?  I'm even wondering if a linear dual pot might suit better.  The Citec pots I'm using aren't great, but it somehow doesn't seem quite right.

Tone control needs to be at 75% to give a "neutral" tone.  Which I can live with.  I'm guessing this is just how they are, or is it my C15 sub?

Finally, the buffer's OK, but a little bit on the thin side.  Do most people go true bypass with these?

Being picky, I'll be using it as it is, but if it can be better..

Thanks in advance

Liam

Hi All,

New around here.

Hadn't built anything for about 10 years, and for whatever reason I wanted to have a go at a Klon Centaur clone.  I started with a Dallas Rangemaster because I'd had a Small Bear OC44 equivalent kicking around for years, and it was an opportunity to get my building skills back up to scratch.





Not that pretty, but it works great.  Sounds very 60s in fact!  Enjoyed the experience that much that 2 days later I had the Sunking finished without too many weird subs.





These boards are absolutely great.  Clear instructions, circuits work brilliantly first time.  I'm one very happy cutomer - thanks so much Brian!  I'll have some tech questions about the Sunking soon though.

Liam