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looking at the harbinger one schematic you have the 4 different cap sizes to give it its warble. i love this build. I was wondering if i could build it into a phaser? if so the four caps c7-15n c10-220n c14-470pf and c17-4n7 are what give it its univibe characteistics correct? i would need to match all four off theses? or just the first three ? i guess if i did the first three and kept the fourth in the vibrato section different i could have a little flexibiliy via the switch correct?


this just sounds so good as a univibe i am wondering if we reveresed modded it the way they fo the phase 90 to be univibe how it would sound. What value would be best to try first ect.  just a thought.i love the harbinger one as it is and im not modding mine but if i build another it could be worth it . anyone tried thsi little experiment yet?

hello i just upgraded my ldrs to the top of the line from small bear. it made a noticable difference for the better over the nsl7532. however i dont know what happened by my speed led has stopped pulsing. idk what i did but i no longer get a pulsing led which i did have working. any ideas where to start?


i bombed a transistor Q15 i guess i shorted it while working on it. however it never has flashed. before 11 oclock. any way to get this to flash when speeds are before 11 oclock.

hello its a stock harbingor  9v version with the lm7815. i noticed when i use the chorus side its in phase and has a lot more bass. when i switch to vibrato  you can hear it go out of phase and i lose low bass and mid . i thought it was supposed to be like that and thats why i liked the chorus side better. my friend is an amp builder and electrical engineer  explained i need to fix it. well how do i do that. ha ha thanks in advance .its this normal or did i make a mistake.

Hello I built my harbinger and finished a few weeks ago. I took my time drilling and painting the box. It was working perfectly and sounded amazing. I went to put my light shield on it permanently. Well its metal and Like an idiot i had it plugged in. I touched the metal across resistors R29  r 30 r35 R37 and C16 and man i got some sparks. So i tested it again and on or off i get a major hum like touching the end of the cord. No signal on or off. I went to check my lm7815 and i shorted it out. I had a spare and fixed that. I then switched lt1054 chips i had one in a charge pump for a tonebender i built. The lt1054 from the harbinger worked in the other charge pump. This is a 9v build with no mods.

  So then i started checking transistor voltage. I am getting up and down readings on the E and B of several transistors. They range from 5.5-9.5 volts five reading per second very fast fluctuations. I am stumped. I had it working and did a bozo move . The light bulb still pulses and the speed control works.On or off its loud hum period. I keep thinking i have a ground issue . I have voltage everywhere.I tried changing a couple of electrolytics and one or two 1 uf caps. I doubt a resistor is going to go bad on such low power. I wrote down the lt1054 readings . They were not perfect compared to another post but i am pretty sure the chip is good  because it does work in another charge pump. I replaced the lm7815 due to another bozo move. Is it normal for voltages on transistors to fluctuate like this in a univibe circuit???The speed knob does not have any effect on the voltage fluctuation . I will give  chip and transistor voltage readings and post a couple pictures later tonight when i get home . man i hate the idea of just replacing random parts.I figure i could buy another one build it and then have a benchmark to go off of. Please help I am very frustrated ha ha. Thanks Madbeaners for you time wisdom and knowledge.

Hello I have been building pedals for 2 months i have built over 10 already and have parts to build about 10 more ha ha. I spent over 20 hours doing artwork for a waterslide decal printed it clear coated it three times to be sure. So I printed a few soaked one for about 30 seconds. I tried to apply it and the outside edges rolled up. I tried another at 20 seconds same thing. How or what can I do to keep these down. The edges keep rolling up. Does micro sol or micro set work?? Any tips would be appreciatted/ I spent 10 on paper 110 on a printer and lots of time on artwork. Also now my main computer crashed and no matter how i size them the come out way bigger almosdt to the edge of my 4x6 sheets. I did unclick fit image icon. Thanks in advance . I got the fever ha ha . Oh and I tried doing a yellow border over a black pedal it was so trasparent you had to hold it an angle to even see it

I have only been building pedals for six weeks. I have built two Tonebenders and 4 Dam red roosters on stripboard. I have just finished my third sunking 2 klon this month. I couldnt have done it without some help from you fine people here and on another forum. I am 99 percent done with the Harbingor one build just waiting for the 100kc dual potentiomer ( I always forget something or can never get it all at one place ha ha).Brian shows a drain strainer on the BOM but I went to 6 hardware stores and never found one that small. So after buying and trying about  a  dozen items I found a perfect fit. You need to have a 1590bb Tall but it works perfectly. I bought a 3/4 inch copper pipe end cap. the circumference is absolutely perfect. I did grind about three sixteenths off of the end of it but its perfect. Plus its copper so you can solder wires directly to it and criss cross them to hold it on and still be able to change bulbs someday by just desoldering it. I did use foil tapeon the inside but i probably didnt need too it was really shinny anyway.O just wanted to share this info for future builds of people that were never happy with the ir current improv. Anyway thanks Madbeans for being the best in the business and to the fine people that make it what it is.



   Now how do these sound the schematic looks very similar to a real one. I have a mojovibe  on loan and its amazing my friend is letting me borrow it for a while . Can someone send me a sound bite? i couildnt find one demo of it on you tube. Thanks Madbeaners and I hope this helps someone out I promose if you get a 1590bb tall and take 3/16ths off the end and  it will be perfect . I might just polish the inside and take the foil tape out its really shinny im just afraid it will dull over time . i would love to at least hear some opinions i have over 6 hours on this project and need one part the suspense is killing me ha ha Thanks to all 

Hello I am on my second sunking 2 build . The first one turned out great. The second one has issues. I finished it up late last night and have some serious issues. First off I plugged it in no battery and i got nothing. So i pulled it out and while on the bench hooked up a battery and it worked . I boxed it and everything seemed to be fine I only tested on off and the knobs seemed to be working. It was 1 am kids sleeping and I was very tired at the time. I discovered i had the 2 positive wires swapped on the dc jack . one the first one i used an inside nut for the jack and the second has an outside nut for the jack. The top positive is not the same on the two jacks. anyway


   so I swapped the two wires and i get power but now the led stays on at all times. I checked voltages on both boards and I have +/_- 10 percent with in range on both. So the chips seem to be with in the parameters as the working first board. I know get nothing at all for sound and the led stays on at all times. It was really late last night and i got excited when i found i just had the dc jack positive wires reversed.. What should I try next when i get home from work? What would caiuse the led to stay on all the time? I showed zero volts at d1 and d2 on both boards if i remember correctly. I will right down and post specifics sunday as i am super busy working the next two days 15 hour days. please and thank you for all your help. remember i have a working sunking 2 to check off of .

hello was burning the midnight oil building my new harginger one project last night. i got the caps c22 c23 c24 c25 c26 the bom of materials shows 17 1uf film caps. when i got to these the pcb shows poloraized caps. do i just ignore the pcb? i have both tantalums and electrolytics i can use but i want to be true to the design. these boards are very hard to desolder i have noticed so i sure dont want to instal the wrong parts. Anyone finished the new version yet?.. i am at a standstill on these . i will start on the transistors next while waiting . any tips would be appreciated. i went with the 9 v version charge pump since i ordered everything on the shopping list except a zener 15v ooops . thank you all. also anyone finished one of these and have a video i couldnt find anything on youtube for this build. how close to a real univibe is it?. thanks again my fellow diyers and i appreciate your time.

hello i am almost done building the sunking 2 . i think the 1uf tantalum goes in the c11 spot but i am not positive. can any one confirm this for me? also tantalums are polarized correct? if so which way does it go? if i put it in wrong will it still work or can i blow a chip? please and thank you in advance