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Any one else having trouble sorting out the sps switching board options? I purchased the files from vfe and got many of the boards and was going to start assembling some of them. The circuit pcbs are pretty clear but when I started looking at the sps switching board it all gets fuzzy.  In the files there is an SPS system board, a truesoft sps 15v board, a truesoft sps 18v board, a truesoft sps through hole board and a truesoft sps board. How the crap am I supposed to know which one to use for what? In the assembly documentation it has sps v2 assembly. It matches the 15v and 18v board but only shows one side but doesn't show the back side. No where else does it show what should go in those spots.  A few are easy but a few would just be a guess, lol. The truesoft sps documentation shows yet another board with different parts and then there is a spreadsheet for an smd version that once again used another set of parts.  I just wondered if anyone has come across any clear cut directions on what to use when and where with these? I really want to get some of these going but a the moment I am kinda throwing up my hands.  I don't mind a little pic programing or smd soldering but this is a bit wonky, lol. 

Anyone have working voltages on a Woodstork? They are not on the BOM.  I am fairly certain it's the 1044 but I don't have any extras at this moment. I thought I would check voltages while I was waiting on some new ones to arrive. On the same note what is the preferred 1044? I usually get the tc (microchip)bc tayda carries them but if this one is faulty I may try a Max1044 from small bear. Thanks in advance

Hi guys,  I have been working on my Harbinger and have a horrible droning sound. In bypass there is no noise but when I switch it on the sound starts. The noise goes with rate of the light. Everything works and I can hear cool sounds its just has this extra noise with it. The noise persists regardless of settings.  I built it for 18v bc I had a wall wort, so why not? I have built 20+ pedals but apparently been pretty fortunate. When I go over the circuit with my audio probe it starts sounding funky at c6. I reflowed a bunch of stuff just to be sure but no luck. How do I know if the cap is bad? Any suggestions would be great.

Wrapped this up yesterday. What a fun circuit to play with. It sounds awesome. I havent decided on artwork yet but am very pleased otherwise.

This is a silly question but I don't want to screw it up. Which way do the 1p8t and 2p4t switches mount to the pcb? I havent seen any real indicator on the pot and the pcb just shows an arrow pointing down. Thanks in advance.

I am finally ready to build my Harbinger. I wanted to get several projects down (over 20 now) so its time. I am wondering, those of you that have built this, is there any thing you wish you had socketed that you didnt? The power options I likely will (just in case I want to change it up later) but what about the bulb or the photocells? I havent really seen anyone say they socket these but it seems like if you burn a bulb it would be easier to swap.