Topics

Hi,

Just received the "VFE Fiery Red Horse" PCB. I don't see a drill template in with the BOM. Should I look somewhere else on the site, or do I need to construct my own?

Thank you

Hi All,

Just a heads up...I think. I recently made a purchase for the vendor Silicon Ark. I like to use ME4003s in place of 5088s, but they are VERY hard to find. So, I found a bunch at Silicon Ark, as well as some gold plated SIP sockets, (snap-off). I placed the order on November 15th, and I've tried to connect with the site to check on my order status. There WAS a "site down for maintenance" message, but now the site is gone and I'm out $22+. Hope no one else got screwed!

Hi,

I know this is VERY old, but this was one of my first builds, and the enclosure came out crap! Just wanted to update with a powdercoated 125B, but the Deadpool link over on Keefe's side is dead. Anyone know where I can get this?

Thank you!

Hi,

I'll keep this brief. 1. I'm going to use the 169, 184, and 109 for the CherryBomb transistors. Is there a certain order? 2. I have no 200pf for C3. Any problem using a 220p?

Thanks

Hi,

Just clicked on the Grind Customs link, and instead of getting 404 code I saw "Coming Soon"!!! I hope they will carry all the GREAT PCBs of the past!

Hi,

This has been posted, but has not been addressed specifically. I'm beginning to build the "Chunk Chunk" PCB. In the build docs Brian recommends using shielded wire on either the input and/or the output jacks. I use daughter boards from either (Ben) Rullywow, Fuzz Dog, or (Paul) DIY Guitar Pedals. I've found shielded wire at SB (RG-174), but I'm wondering if it will fit daughter board pads? I usually use SB 24 pre-bonded.

Thank you

Hi,

I put up a post regarding light plates, and installation questions a while back. I built "Pasteyface",
which worked and sounded great! However, after I put the pedal together with the light plate set-up and tested it, I got this horrible hum through my amp without even turning the pedal on. When I did turn the thing on, it was worse!
I assumed that the light plate acted as a glorified bypass LED, so I wired a socket to the place on the daughter boards I use, where I usually put the engaged/disengaged LED. I guess there are some circuits that can't handle these things...
Sorry I wasted time and money finding that out! Off to get a NEW Pasteyface PCB.

Thanks

Hi,

I purchased a couple of Small Bears light plates (125B) recently, and I just wanted to check my connection understanding. I know I have to get a "Hi Bright" type LED, SB's plates are bluish so I guess I get blue. I understand I need to sand it to get it to a "diffused" state, and I need to get the top as flat as possible w/o ruining the LED. I've read that I need to place the LED as close to the center of the plate as possible...True? I use daughter boards, and I'm assuming the plate is a fancy replacement for the bypass LED, so would I just take some of my hook-up wire and 2 connected SIP sockets as extensions...wire that to the spot on the daughter board where the LED goes...place the LED into the sockets and than into the plate itself? I've also read only 1 LED is needed because the plate material acts as fiber optics, and gives a even dispersion of light. Have I got the installation correct or not? I already contacted SB, and they couldn't give me any installation instructions.

Thank you

Hi,

I'm starting to order components for the Pastyface build. On Mouser I'm finding 12V Zeners at 0.5 watt, and 1 watt. Is there a certain wattage I need to look for?

Thank you

Hi,

I want to buy some PCBs from a well known vendor, but I'm not finding certain parts needed for two circuits. Both require 7660 ICs. The circuits give one a choice to either run at 9V or 18V with a toggle. One build doc just says 7660, while the other says TL7660S. I'm finding TC7660SCPAs at Mouser, but no TL7660S. I'm also finding ICL7660SCPA (Z), and ICL7660SIPA (Z). Could someone clarify?

Thank you

Hi,

Anyone know if a circuit is made that produces the totally messed up sounds of the inital Adrian Belew solo in Elephant Talk, or the first solo of Steven Wilson's in Bonnie the Cat? Would REALLY love to build it!!

Thank you,

Is there a type that is better, Dual Leaf or Machine Pin? When I've used Dual Leaf I can hear the IC snap in. Not so much with the Machine Pin. I need more, and I'd like to get the "better".

Thank you...

Hi,

Is there such a thing as silicon 1N270s? I forgot where I picked these up, but I've got 8 diodes marked 1N270, and the FV equals .50!

Thank you,

Hi,

I'm going on my 22nd build since June, and I've picked up a lot of GREAT tips from people here on the forum!! I sent an email to Ben, (RullyWow), yesterday about build hum, and how it varies from circuit to circuit. He gave me some good tips includng shielding the enclosure. Not sure what this entails. I use aluminium 1590Bs or 125Bs from either SB or Mammoth. I always cover the inside of the bottom plate with electrical tape just in case a component is sitting a bit too high.
I use my OneSpot 9V adapter to power everything. Some circuits hum like hell, some are quite! I mentioned to Ben that one circuit of his I built feedsback if I set the "Drive" pot too high. While others of his are dead quite. Might have used a bad pot...
He also mentioned something about keeping the DC power wires on the short side. What I have been doing lately is mounting the power supply on the "front" of the pedal, so I have almost 5" to 6" of wire inside the case going from the breakout in the back to the power supply in the front. I've also been twisting the positive and negative wires around each other to keep it tidy. If anyone has any other suggestions for cutting down on hum please let me know.

Thank you

Hi,

Any new folks looking for 1N34A diodes with the green band can find them here: https://www.mikeselectronicparts.com/product/1n34a/

Hi,

As I've gained experience in building I've found that socketing LEDs alleviates major headaches vs trying to directly solder to the board. I socket the circuit bypass LED to my breakouts, and if the circuit calls for LEDs used for clipping I socket those. Which brings me to my question. Can I socket the GREEN LED at IC2 to the bottom of the board, and still have room to fit the board relatively evenly in the enclosure? I'm thinking the pot shafts are longer than the SIP socket so I should be ok. Building this for my son to give to his friend as a wedding gift, and I don't want to get to the end and find I screwed up...

Thank you

Hi,

In the Uproar circuit R7 & R8 are odd size resistors, (11k3 and 8k25 respectively). Will a straight 11k, and 8k2 work just as well?

Thank you

Hi,

I'd like to build a Maestro, but I'm having a hard time finding a PCB / build docs. I've seen one at General Guitar Gadgets, but it's only information and NO PCB!

Thank you

Hi,

I'm starting to build Deadpool soon. The build doc suggests the 2n3565/PN3565 hFE be around 260. I went out and bought a cheap DMM with hFE at Harbor Freight today, (already have a good UNI-T DMM with NO hFE), and I'm puzzled by my readings. All I have are PN3565s broken up into 2 seperate bags...I think because one bunch is from Tayda. Anyway, the one bunch registers around 412 - 580 hFE while the other measures around 201-218. I have 2 (218s) so I'm going to go with those unless I should go with the higher value.
Not sure about what's optimal as far as hFE goes, unlike my understanding of diode forward voltage, (germanium anything around .03, silicon around .07). Measured BC550s I got from Tayda as well, and got 411 -485. If someone could give me a heads up on hFE, and IF my measurements are correct or not that would be helpful.

Thank you

Hi,

I purchased 2 3PRR boards, (3PDT + Road Rage in one), yesterday. I'm building "Faultline", and I want to run it at 18V using my 9V adapter...(so as a voltage doubler). I've included a pic of how I think it might be connect, but not sure.

Also, it states in the build docs, "I need +18v output for my overdrive pedal (or whatever)...
Solder everything except C5, C6, C7, and REG to the Road Rage PCB. Connect your DC jack to the
"DC" pads and take the output from +18/G. Jumper the two C6 pads to connect pin5 of IC1 to ground." So I don't use C5, C7, OR the Regulator if I'm trying to set up a voltage doubler?

Thank you for any help...