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I've looked online and found that the FX25 inverts, but that's bandpass...


When the Flunkee's in LowPass mode is it still inverting the signal?
Looking at the schematic, the signal-path enters each op-amp on the non-inverting pin, so I can only guess it inverts on the 13700's darlington buffers. I tried to do my homework before posting here, even scoured the 13700 datasheet, but feel I've missed something.

Also...
I'd like to add a clean blend to mine.
If you've any suggestions on a good corner frequency for an LPF on the clean signal (for bass guitar usage), feel free to hit me up with wherever you think it Hertz best.


Mm Goi Sai,
FF

I found this blem-box 1590B online for ultra-cheap pre-drilled and already dolled up, so I thought to put a perf Magnatone in it. However I found that the Wigl board I had gathering dust had pot spacing identical to the blemished enclosure's gap. Build went fairly well after that, apart from I still don't have adequate LDRs.

Build in brief:
   
Top-mounted jacks, of course! Real Cowgirls don't ride side-saddle.

Rate LED doubles as bypass indicator.

Socketed: in/out & couplers; LDRs & LED — so I can play around with trying to bassify it; and different LDRs/LEDs.
   Output cap changed from electrolytic to film (2µ2).
   
LEDs for voltage biasing were both painted and then mounted underneath board to prevent light leakage to LDRs, and gave more room for top-jacks.
   
W-taper 3266 bourns trim pot for LFO's LED (#3) 12-turn screw for better dialling in the sweet-spot vs spec'd single-turn (240º) 3362p bourns.

   
LED for driving photocells: red (650nm) square-body, socketed to try yellow (570nm), pink (?nm), green (510nm).
   
LDRs: KE-10720 from Tayda. All I had, as mentioned socketed — will try stock spec and others when I can get 'm;
The dark resistance on the KE's is 0.5M, but the build doc calls for 20M. It sounded good when briefly testing it, even when LDRs were exposed to the room-lights on — so I'm sure it'll sound great with the proper 9203s.

DRILLING
The monster-LED for rate and bypass fit in the pre-drilled hole like it was meant to be there, just as the Wigl's pot-spacing was fated. I then hand-drilled out the stock LED hole for the 3PDT and hand-drilled top-jacks and power. I had to remove the lip of the lid over the jacks for clearance.





Long-winded build report is over at TB:
https://www.talkbass.com/threads/any-diy-pedal-builders-on-tb-strut-your-stuff.1469191/page-26#post-25060390


Thanks for having a Butcher's at my build.

Cheers,
FF

'allo 'lo

Coupla questions sort of related to each other...

I've got both Madbean's Fritter and the Aion Anomaly... The plan is to mod the H E double-hockey-sticks out of the Aion (big box, lotsa switches etc) and then incorporate what I like into the Fritter (1590A, no room for switches etc).

I will breadboard, eventually, but I'm moving soon so all is packed away thus I can only pontificate on builds for the foreseeable future...

I'm guessing you've all got the Fritter schematic already if interested at all in this circuit, but here's the Aion schematic for reference and comparison:


Q1:
I would like to add the PNP of the Anomaly to the Fritter, which to my understanding requires a 2v7 Zener between the PNP's base and VA. I was going to solder the legs of the collector and emitter to [the Fritter's] op-amp pins 5 & 6 respectively. There's another Zener in the Aion schematic's power section, but I'm hoping I can get away with just the one Zener.

Is this feasible?


So researching that led me to a comment here, https://www.madbeanpedals.com/forum/index.php?topic=16120.0 , which suggests that the Short Stack is the Bluesberry mod.

Looking closely at the schematic in that thread, though, the Short-Stack diodes have nothing to do with the Bluesberry goings on in the power section of the Aion schematic. So...

Q2:
Is the Bluesberry mod the Short-Stack situation or ... shenanigains [sic] and if I add the Short Stack diodes on a switch to the Anomaly, is that redundant? (ie, Short-Stack=Bluesberry)


Thanks in advance &
Cheers,
FF

What's the Man O' War PCB size?


I looked at the build doc & I searched the forum, but I cannot find a size posted anywhere. 

To be clear, I'm after the PCB-size of the NON-modulated version, but while we're at it ... it'd be great to post the Deluxe as well! 

About 82x82mm-ish or... ?

Much thanks in advance.
Cheers,
FF