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Hi all,
First pedal build in ages and one using what parts I had in my boxes - hence the amp flavour.
Tight for space so it ended us esentially an AM Sam Ash Astrotone clone with some symmetric/asymmetric clipping options - using the Orman 3 option arrangement.
2n5088 and bc109 in Q1 and Q2 repectively. Couldn't get this to sing at all with 2N3656s that seem to be the norm for Astrotones in the various DIY forums.
Speaking of which, this really is more OD than fuzz. If you want fuzz, put a gain recovery stage on it like the Suzie Q.
Sounds best into a driven amp.

Here's a build of one of my favourite pedals ever using Max's 1590a board from a few years ago. See here: https://www.madbeanpedals.com/forum/index.php?topic=30841.msg297285#msg297285

Always love the AM styling so I thought I'd go with that.....and yes I know it the original was a Skreddy.

Not a super clean build as I used what I had at hand including a mix of 1/8 and 1/4 watt resistors.  Forgot to take a pic on the completed internals but have a couple of the populated board. Haven't plucked up enough courage to superglue the gain 'knob' to the trimmer yet

Had this pcb in the drawer for years. Glad I got around to building it.

Went with OA7s.

One of the best low/medium gainers I've had the privilege of playing.

Was going for a military aesthetic. Might replace the TMB knobs with my next parts order.

Here's a rip-off of the AM Sunlion (Germ FF into Rangemaster) using a couple of www.diyguitarpedals.com.au boards I had laying around.

AC128s in the FF and a Russian of some sort in the RM.

Tone knob is via the RM board. RM volume on the side.

Stupidly tight even with the 3D-printed extender.

Hi All,

Been off in amp building world for a while and am keen to do a reverb for my 1590a board.

Anyone doing a 1590a reverb pcb these days?

Cheers

Hi All,

Recently build a nice little Hoof fuzz using a Madbean Rabbit Hole board. Love the tone, but I need more gain.

I used Kit Rae's schematic for the build with the 2N3904s in Q1 and Q4 and the germanium 2N1308s in Q2 and Q3: http://www.bigmuffpage.com/Big_Muff_Pi_versions_schematics_part4.html

It's a very tight build and I'm really reluctant to pull the board to mod Q bias or change pot values.

I did however socket the transistors.

Was thinking of swapping out the 2N3904 in Q1 and/or Q4 but leave the germ Q2/3 combo for the mojo. Does this sound logical given the relatively low gain Ge in Q2/3? Any suggestion re alternatives?

Cheers

For those with 3D printing capabilities (not me) I think a great idea for a product would be a say a 10mm gasket that fits between the enclosure and the lid to effectively deepen it to enable socketing of transistors/larger caps etc.

Thoughts?

Hi,

I have a tonebender "set" of ac125s (or ac128s - can't remember which)  that I have mixed up such that I now no longer know which is Q1, Q2 or Q3.

Is there a way I can ID them using a basic multimeter with no Hfe/leakage capability?

THanks

Hi All,

My 1590a fuzz quest continues.

Appreciate it if someone could let me know where I might purchase a 1590a mkIII pcb.

Cheers

LHS - Hoof
RHS - bitsa Cloven Hoof

....using the Rabbit Hole boards...Rabbit Hoofs? Rabbit Hooves? Hoof Holes?

No LED clippers installed in either yet.

Intend on implementing mid range controls on both once they are rockin'

https://www.gearnews.com/genius-or-gimmick-the-circuit-fuzz-pedal-comes-with-a-diy-pop-out-boost-pcb/

Further to this thread: https://www.madbeanpedals.com/forum/index.php?topic=30749.msg296563#msg296563

When populating a pcb, when do you snip your long component leads - before or after soldering? 

Please reply with "Before" of "After".

Hi All,

My worst trouble-shooting nightmare has been realized - my Blueshift build was boxed and refused rock.

Symptoms:
1. Bypass signal  - fine.
2. Engaged signal  - no chorus effect. Sounds just like the bypassed signal with maybe a tad fewer highs (or more lows).
3. Unable to adjust both bias points. They are both reading 3.7v (off a 9.2v supply) and do not move when the trim pots are rotated.

Stock bypass.

I double checked IC and transistor orientation and reflowed pretty much all solder joints prior to boxing.

Will take some IC readings soon, but would appreciate any initial thoughts - even those relating to reducing the amount of IC readings as that is going to be a challenge!!

Disassembled pics



Preassembly PCB rear shots (not the best sorry)



THanks

Hi all,

Anyone know of +1, -1, -2 FV-1 based pitch shifter pcb for a 1590a? Something like a EHX POG.

Cheers

Hi all,

Can someone remind where I can find the graphics for  the Blueshift? I have a printed copy but I can't remember where I got it from....

thanks.

Just doing some trouble shooting....

I've just realized I've used a 9v zener instead of the 12v specified.

Would this make any difference to the operation of the voltage inverting IC? I'm reading 3v on pin 3 when it should be 0v right?

thanks

Hi Guys,

Is an LT1054 a direct sub for the TC1044SCPA in this circuit?

Cheers

Hi Guys,

Wondering if someone might be able to provide some guidance as to why this loop I've put in my Naughty Fish doesn't work.

I've put a socket where R4 was and moved it to the Return line.

10uF electro's on the Send and Return to block DC. Are these oriented correctly?

Do I need to ground the Send and Return?

Thanks.

Hi All,

When the Blueshift is in bypass mode, does it send the same incoming mono signal to both outputs?

Thanks

Hi Guys,

Anyone aware on any commercially available FV-1 pcbs that'll do a octave -up/reverb ie: shimmer?

edit: I'm trying to avoid any coding.

Cheers