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Hey guys, so I was waiting to get some parts in to finally build these and now that I have (yes I know its been a long time), I see that the PDFs are no longer online. Did anyone happen to save the PDFs?

THX!

But someone drank all the kool-aid:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/RETICON-SAD1024-1024-stage-bucket-brigade-analog-delay-line-IC-/111195013523?&_trksid=p2056016.l4276



To save you from clicking the link it's (1) SAD1024A for $133.00 US Dollars.

Hi Brian,

           I don't know if it's possible, but I think it'd be interesting to link whatever's in the news section of the forum (e.g. "Govmnt_Lacky wins the May contest!") to the relevant forum thread (which in this case would be his build submission for the May contest).

Thoughts? is that possible?

I mean I'm probably just being lazy here, as I can easily look it up, but when it's new News to me, it'd be cool to just click the link.

Anyway, just a thought.

Anyone know of a place to buy 3P4T's with solder lugs, like this:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1x-Rotary-Switch-3-Pole-4-Position-3P4T-Non-Shorting-4P-/270743901923?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3f099816e3

outside of that seller on eBay?

It seems these used to be much more plentiful to me, but now SmallBear doesn't even carry them.  I mean you can find the PC mount version most places, but good luck on finding one with lugs.

I think I'm finally ready to stock up on some 1/8 resistors for 1590a builds, and because I hate standing resistors on some of the builds I'm finishing up.

Anyone sell a kit with common (for us) values in it?  Or am I having to make my own from Mouser?

[Madbean:]

As the year is coming to a close, I figure now is a good time for us to reflect on our favorite builds of 2012.

Madbean: Low Rider
So I had this board since September of '11 and put off finishing it until recently, it's fantastic! I have an original POG, a Digitech WH-1, WH-2, XP-100, WH-4, and I have to say this pedal holds it own among them

JMK: Standard Fuzz
Having previously built a BYOC Leeds Fuzz (Univox Superfuzz clone), I wasn't sure I really needed to build this one, but after doing so I quickly realized that this pedal was the better fit for me than the Leeds. I'm a big Black Keys fan, and they supposedly used this one on different tracks throughout their whole career, its raw and harsh and I love it!

1776: 3PDT Boards
While not technically an effect, I started using these this year, and man does it make offboard wiring a breeze. I'm never going back!


Worst Failure of 2012:
I completely butchered a Dunlop JH-1 board that I ended up soldering and resoldering too many times. I think I lifted 4 traces on it. I might try to repair it at some point, but I've already put another pcb in the Wah chassis it was in.

Build I'm Most Looking Forward to in 2013:
My ultimate wah build, probably using a BYOC Wah PCB I have from a trade. For a long time I've been in search of the Swiss Army Knife of Wah pedals. I bought a Teese RMC-3, but alas that only features one inductor, and I'm looking for at least two of differing types (*cough* perhaps something to include in future Weener Wah builds *cough*)

I'm just wondering if anyone knows why they specifically used a bi-polar/non-polarized electrolytic capacitor in the wahs of old. I would think that the originally specified value (4uF) is more important than having a bi-polar cap, if it's installed correctly. That's why I took Madbean's suggestion for the Sprague despite its relatively high cost for a single electrolytic capacitor. I noticed that in the BYOC wah, they opted for a 4.7uF NP. That choice seemed puzzling to me, and that's what has sparked my question. Is there some outstanding property of non-polarized caps that would be worth the .7uF difference (not including 10% tolerance) between these two?

I know some wahs also used a 3.9uF tantalum capacitor in that place, can anyone really comment on the importance of value vs bi-polarity vs material in this part of the wah circuit?

I know that wah mod sites say "Lifting the earth connection of the 4.7µF (in reference to a Vox V847) capacitor will cancel the wah effect and leave you with a volume pedal."

The octave is super pronounced and "transformery"?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VVyImbyiM1I&feature=related#

Hi folks,

           I feel like I've been asking myself this question for a long time now.  What is the proper temperature for your soldering iron for soldering PCBs or heck guitar effects in general? 

For reference I'm using a Weller WESD51 (50 Watt Station with Digital Temperature read-out).

Pretty much everything I do is somewhere between 400-600 degrees F, but lately it seems as if many of my joints are going cold. Maybe its just time for a tip (or pencil) replacement, but to be sure, I wanted to ask and see what temperature you guys use.

I've seen recommended 700-800 degrees F, and that was way too hot for me and resulted in cold joints and lifted traces.

What say you?

Hi folks,

           I'm hoping the ol' bean will get around to this, but I wanted to suggest that with all the different component options he offers for many of his boards (to allow for different capacitor spacing or different trimpot styles), that maybe for transistors he could add an extra hole to account for 3-pin "in-line" sockets and not just the 3-pin transistor "triangle-style" sockets.

Other places like GGG do this already, and it's where I got the idea. I enjoy not having to bend vintage germanium transistors around to fit into the "triangle-style" socket.  Also, snapping off 3 "in-line" sockets is much cheaper than buying the triangle ones if the transistor spacing doesn't call for them.


Here's a pic of a GGG example:

Sorry, I know pinout is not the correct term, but I can't think of it right now.

Anyway, I foolishly bought from Mammoth Electronics a bunch of economy jacks and their 1/4" Mono Jacks have three lugs?!?

Does anybody know what is Tip and what is Sleeve here... or are there 2 Sleeves? or 2 Tips??!? I dont know I'm way confused, here's a picture:

http://image.zlectronic.com/stock/laptopparts28/100_199/14316_7.jpg


Mammoth confirmed that these are not just weird looking stereo jacks and infact the mono jacks.

Folks,

        I built a FatPants with a 16v 47uF elec capacitor instead of one rated for like 25v. Aside from it not working (would using the wrong voltage rated cap alone do that?), do you think I caused any damage to the rest of the circuit or the charge pump?




- E

Hi folks,

           There were a few boards I bought a long time ago that I'm just now getting around to building and the Krunkee was one of them (which I guess Brian doesn't make boards for anymore).

Any chance one of you has the parts layout for this version of the Krunkee? (Sorry for the bad pic) I think it's not the first version but the second one.


Thanks!