Topics

I built a Giant Hogweed clone:

http://tagboardeffects.blogspot.com/2015/10/giant-hogweed.html
http://www.davidrolo.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/07/GiantHogweedSchematic_zps445f5a36.png

I use a modular GigRig power system with Isolators and when I have the Hogweed powered on my board with an Isolator, and the Octave button on the pedal is on, I get high pitched whistling noises.

However, if I use a completely separate power supply there is no noise from the pedal.

The GigRig system is supposed to supply isolated 9v through an isolator and yet this is happening.

Any ideas?

This is one of those probably simple things that I just cannot get my head around (maybe lack of coffee).

I'm building a circuit that has a standard wired stomp 3PDT for Bypass. The wiring I use is this:



I also need to include another 3PDT switch that simply makes a connection in the circuit, on or off (it's Octave On/Off), so just two wires for this. This should have its own LED to indicate on or off. (I know I could use a DPDT but I don't have one).

I know how to wire them so the LEDs have their own make/break loops but I want the Octave LED to switch off when the Bypass stomp is off.

I'm building the Giant Hogweed fuzz circuit. R19 and R20 are both 10M ohm. I'm wondering why the value is so high and could I use 4.7M ohm instead?

It seems that an Inkjet printer is the preferred type of printer to create artwork for enclosures. Either on water-slide decal paper or sticky vinyl paper. Then cover with Envirotex or clear coat.

But why not use a colour laser printer on white sticky back paper such as this https://www.amazon.co.uk/Sheets-Quality-Adhesive-Sticky-Printing/dp/B00W2E5N36 and then cover?

Is perhaps the colour not so vivid? Other reasons?

Now that I'm OK with using Envirotex Lite on an enclosure I want to try my hand at printing on transparent adhesive paper (like this https://www.amazon.co.uk/Adhesive-Microporous-Waterproof-Sticker-PPD-36-20/dp/B000W4H63S/). But I'd like some opinions on inkjet printers and ink:

Will the ink fade over time? Or is it protected in the Envirotex?
What's the best printer and ink to use? Epson? Canon? HP?

Any tips welcome!

I've just poured my first Envirotex Lite finish on a 1590BB pedal, and it's now under cover hopefully hardening. But I have a some questions:

• I wasn't sure how much of the resin to measure out so I over-estimated and probably used twice as much as I needed. What quantity do you typically measure?
• How long do you wait for it to harden before working on the pedal?
• The excess resin in the cup has now gone rock hard, but the resin on the pedal is still sticky. Is this normal?
• I know that I have to drill the hardened epoxy out of the holes in the enclosure but do you drill from the front or the back? Do you use a centre punch to mark the hole? Do you use tape on it to catch the dust?

Thanks for any advice! 

So, I built a ZVex Fuzz Factory from the layout at tagboard effects (http://tagboardeffects.blogspot.co.uk/2012/10/zvex-fuzz-factory-compact-layout.html) using two AC128s from Fuzzdog and it's a lot of crazy fun. And now I want to build another one, but this time with different PNPs. What have you guys tried? What do you think is interesting or fun?

Excuse the real noob question here, but I gotsta know. 

Some circuits use a 78(L)05 voltage regulator to supply +5v to a chip such as the 2399. But why not simply divide the 9v voltage with a couple of resistors and get the 5v that way?

I'd welcome some advice regarding options for good lighting and magnification for soldering.

I wear 2x (non-prescription) reading glasses for normal computer work and reading, but have to wear 3x reading glasses when it comes to closer and smaller work like soldering. The problem with this is switching between the 2x and 3x glasses all the time.

For lighting I'm currently using a small desktop halogen 20w lamp but this casts shadows, which is very annoying.

So I'm looking for a solution that provides a good light that doesn't cast shadows and a magnifying solution. I'm not sure I'd get on with a magnifying lamp as I've tried a round magnifying glass before and for me it looks distorted.

What do you advise?

I'm building the Madbean Gravity Wave from the vero layout here - http://tagboardeffects.blogspot.co.uk/2016/02/madbean-gravity-wave-earthquaker.html. I notice that this layout specifies a 7805 for the voltage regulator. Yet Madbean's schematic has a 78L05. I can't tell whether it actually needs a full 1w 7805 or whether the 100mA 78L05 is sufficient. If a 78L05 is OK, then I'm wondering why they put a 7805 on that vero layout.

I've built the Heartthrob tremolo pedal (Schaller mod) - http://tagboardeffects.blogspot.co.uk/2012/03/heartthrob-tremolo.html - which is based on this schematic - http://www.mrdwab.com/john/temp/Schaller-Hearthob-conversion.jpg

I've hooked up an LED going from the collector of Q4 to ground so that it flashes in time with the tremolo frequency. But when it flashes it's binary on/off, meaning it's either full on or full off. It would be easier on my eye if instead it flashed full on and half off (or half on). I've seen this on a TC ELectronic Viscous Vibe pedal. Is there something I could add, like a capacitor, to achieve this?

I'm going to build a ZVex Fuzz Factory from this layout - http://tagboardeffects.blogspot.co.uk/2012/10/zvex-fuzz-factory-compact-layout.html but it requires 2 AC128 transistors. Are these readily available (in the UK)?

I found that Fuzzdog sells them here - https://shop.pedalparts.co.uk/AC128_Germanium_Transistors/p847124_15540300.aspx - but I have no idea what the hFE ranges mean (61-70, 71-80, 81-90, 91-100).

Any advice on the mysterious AC128 readily accepted!

I bought 100 polyester film caps from China off of ebay - http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/231966163492. They arrived today. I can't see any manufacturer markings on them (although some have "DY" on them). So, I'm wondering if the quality of these will be OK. Anyone used these type of caps from China before?

I'm looking to buy a soldering station, and wondering what folks are using these days. I've done a search on the forum which has provided some pointers but I'd like to get an up to date consensus, and also, if possible, options that can be bought in the UK. At the moment, I'm considering the HAKKO FX-888D, but if there was a cheaper option that would be good.

When I turn off a shop-bought pedal at the mains the LED turns off instantly (powered by a power supply, not battery). If I do the same on one of my builds the LED gradually fades away as I assume there is some residual current in the power supply. So, how do manufacturers achieve the instant-off LED when turning off the power supply?

As a real noob to pedal building I thought I'd have a look in the "Build Reports" forum section. All beautiful stuff, and all seem to be using PCBs which make my vero builds look like amateur hour (I'm using veroboard and building pedals from the layouts at http://tagboardeffects.blogspot.co.uk/)

So, where/how are you builders getting/making your professional looking PCBs from? Do you make them yourselves, or is there some place that sells these?

I've built the Lunar Module Deluxe pedal here - http://tagboardeffects.blogspot.co.uk/2012/02/great-modern-take-on-classic-fuzz.html

Schematic - http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-jtoWoktqNs4/T0AQyiJsOUI/AAAAAAAAA8A/U5vbjO3-zig/s1600/lm_scheme.gif

Here's the thing. If I wind up the Pre-Gain and Fuzz controls and put my finger on the metal body of Q1 (BC109C) there is a loud hum and noise, like that when you touch the end of a guitar jack with your finger. Should a transistor react in this way?

Wondering what the thinking is on this for 9v circuits. Do you strap a diode across the +/- terminals or do you use a (Schottky) diode in series with the positive supply? The pedal I'm building doesn't have one on the board so I'm wondering whether it's best to add a 1N5817 in series. Or maybe nothing at all is OK?

I've just completed a build of the Mad Professor Deep Blue Delay as per this vero layout - http://tagboardeffects.blogspot.co.uk/2012/02/mad-professor-deep-blue-delay.html (the vero layout is the first one there) and the delays don't work.

• I'm getting a clean, dry output. The volume control works, but there are no delays.
• The "Delay", "Mix" and "Repeat" controls do nothing.
• I've double and triple checked all solder joints, vero breaks, and jumpers
• I get the same dry output when I take the PT2399 out of its socket as when it's in its socket

Could it be that I have a dead PT2399? Is there any way to test this chip in isolation?

Voltages are (using a 9v battery which measures 8.8v):

PT2399
1 - 4.97
2 - 2.49
3 - 0.00
4 - 0.00
5 - 3.47
6 - 2.49
7 - 4.46
8 - 4.59
9 - 0.07
10 - 4.45
11 - 4.42
12 - 0.06
13 - 1.66
14 - 4.87
15 - 0.05
16 - 3.58

OP275
1 - 3.51
2 - 3.56
3 - 3.56
4 - 0.00
5 - 3.55
6 - 3.55
7 - 3.56
8 - 7.06

78L05 regulator
I - 7.29
G - 0.00
O - 4.97

I'm building the Mad Professor Deep Blue Delay clone from this vero layout - http://tagboardeffects.blogspot.co.uk/2012/02/mad-professor-deep-blue-delay.html (the first vero layout there).

There are two 100nF capacitors at the bottom right of the larger IC, that look like they are ceramic types. Ideally I would like to use good quality polyester film capacitors, or NP0/C0G multilayer ceramics. But I can't find any small enough to fit in that tight space. I've been told that using plain ceramic caps is bad for audio.

So, what are my options?