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I got these two off eBay a while back and was wondering if anyone has the build docs? The eBay message I received from Kyle is no longer available on eBay.

Any help would be appreciated!

Chong.

I am really enjoying this tremolo pedal so far. So many options and gotta love the tap tempo.

I was having writer's block with the design, the enclosure was very orange, and it made me think of Orange Crush. I am in Clemson country so Orange is a popular color here anyway, I guess I should have put a Tiger paw on it. Anyways, here is my take on the Wavelord.

Apparently, I didn't take a pic of the graphic I will do that later, lol.

I am getting 8v on the emitter where is should be around 5. All my other voltages per the build docs are correct. I am not getting any swell effect, and turning the mix knob fully CCW yields no sound. I am going to check my soldering around that area. But I am guessing getting around 8 volts at Q4 E is the problem area?

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk

I was wondering if anyone has used these pickups before? I have read some good reviews and they are crazy cheap for being hand wound.

I built the collaborative version of the Sagan Delay through Carcharias effects and DC6FX. I have to say this is one of the best delays I have ever used, the preamp is killer as well.

I have been working on the Pangea vibe. The circuit works but I cannot get the relay switching to work. I received the components from Das Musikding which included a relay and a PIC IC. The relay was too large it was a Relais brand and I could never get it to work. So I ordered the small Fugitsu relay and still the relay won't switch. I have checked the voltages and all seems ok from the regulator to the PIC and relay. But it won't activate. Could it be an issue with the PIC?

I built the Fiery Red Horse and Choral Reef, they both are awesome.

The chorus is my favorite so far. I have since corrected the 47uf cap on the Choral Reef switching board.

I don't usually use original graphics, but I liked the way the originals looked, they use VFE boards, and I never plan on selling them so I figured it was ok.

I am working on a clone of the Filter /SH. I don't have any LM741 chips on hand, so I used some TL071 as a substitute. I am getting the filter and some of the randomness of the S/H, but would it be more pronounced if I used LM741 chips?

Also, any of you that may have built on, did you use several 2n5088s to find which one sounded best or provided the best effect results?

So I didn't reach the switching schematic correctly and put the C6 cap into the C5 spot. The pedal works and all the voltages are within spec of the build guide. I used the soldered in jacks with the switching board so removing C5 is going to be a pain at this point. My question is as the pedal works as is, is it bad to leave it as is or should I remove C5? And can I just put in C6 as per the build guide with leaving C5 in place since there is no charge pump in this build?

Build pics for reference.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/KuqTmfhKpk2EuEw79

I finished up a Standout last night, and it works great except that it is always on. The relay seems to be stuck in an on position, which is better than off I guess. All of the voltages for the pic and opamps look fine, and the LED turns on and off with the footswitch. I ran an audio probe and can get a dry signal from the relay on pin 3 if I recall correctly. I did use a TQ2-L-5V, whereas the build docs call for a TQ2-5V. I am wondering if the relay is bad, and I dread the thought of unsoldering it to replace it.

Can you sub 15k for these or do they need to be exact?

Built my own Klein Bottle and it is pretty awesome, a great tinker toy!

I finished up the Harbinger 2 last night and it works, I just need to put a light shield over the LDRs and lamp. I am planning on just using a 20oz water bottle cap and black it out with a Sharpie. Is this what most are using for this?

I would love to make a 3d printed cap, but I would need a 3d printer for that.

C4 on the board doesn't indicate which side is positive or negative. Does this need to be a bipolar cap?

Looks like the negative end would go towards the diodes if a polarized cap was used, so negative would be the top pad?

I know there is already a post of this, but this is my build. The clean sounds of this are unreal.

My latest and greatest, the Blueshift from Aion Electronics.

After viewing the Refractor post I decided to try out a pcb from Aion. I call it Nice Screams.

I just finished the Freekout and the sound is very low when the effect is activated. From the demos this doesn't seem to be the way it should react. I tried to find the voltages listed but can't seem to find any.

Can I use a L7815CV in the place of a LM7815? I cannot seem to find a LM7815 anywhere but Mouser has the L7815CV in stock and it shows an output voltage of 15v.

I just finished the Mandroid pedal, and the voltages are on par with the build guide, and the ROB/VIP and Splode as well as Trig works. However the pedal is somewhat static-y. I know it is not supposed to be a quiet pedal by any means but is this normal? Could the HT8950 be the culprit?

I tried adjusting the trim knob to decrease the distortion and it does lower the sound but the static remains. Is this normal?